dhunt91 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Barrel has not yet had a muzzle device installed on it at all. this was done at the time of barrel instal. One sec Ill see if i can get pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtaylor996 Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Please do, I've been wondering this exact same thing for the last day. I'm new to ARs so I didn't want to open my mouth and be wrong. But... it doesn't make sense to me either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 this is right after I got it home. I started to put the bolt in and it would not chamber the bolt. Took it out and this is what I see. I was like WTH happened. So I put it in my vice block and undid the barrel. That is what happened to the reciever slot when he installed it. It WAS NOT like that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Which is why I wonder if that receiver was heat treaded correctly. It seems odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickB Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 What does the indexing pin on the barrel look like? Any drag marks? Clearly something had to twist that barrel out of alignment. As Vlad pointed out, I would also be worried about the hardness of the upper.... Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 barrel is fine theres just way to much play in the slot now. I can take the nut off and it lines up fine. Just when tightend down it shifts into that dimple and missaligned. The only thing I can think of is the creakote didnt get hard enough combined with way too much torque on the nut. Like i said the idiot didnt use a torque wrench or a reaction bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Upper company said they would send me a knew one if i called tomorrow but still kinda bummed that this happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 What grease to use one the barrel nut?I bought the tools to put it on myself (reaction rod, pin viceblock torque wrench and crows foot) all I need now is proper grease. anything you could find at lowes that would work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickB Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Valvoline Ford Lincoln Mercury moly fortified multi-purpose grease. Available at Walmart and Auto Zone. Cheap, and pretty much identical to the "mil-spec" grease.... Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Sweet thanks Mick Im still wondering how this even happened. From what I read putting on a barrel nut seems to be almost the easiest thing to do on a AR Maybe I just got a Lemon Upper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Also any tipps for some one new doing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickB Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Do you have a 5 or 6 inch bench vise? If so, you can either use the DPMS panther Claw type device to hold the upper, or you can use two blocks of wood and turn the upper 90 degrees and hold it in the vice that way. Coat the threads on the upper with a small amount of grease. Insert barrel and hand tighten the barrel nut. Then, using a barrel nut wrench (such as the one from DPMS), gently hand tighten the nut till you just meet a little resistance. Loosen the nut and retighten until you again just meet resistance. Do this a total of 3 times. What you are doing here is seating the nut to the threads of the upper. Now, simply tighten the barrel nut to the next notch or hole in the nut for the gas tube to pass through cleanly. If you are paranoid, you can rent a half inch torque wrench from Auto Zone for free. AR15 barrel nut torque is typically between 35-80 ft/lb. This typically translates to "snug the nut hand tight, then turn till gas tube can pass". Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishsticks Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 What grease to use one the barrel nut? I bought the tools to put it on myself (reaction rod, pin viceblock torque wrench and crows foot) all I need now is proper grease. anything you could find at lowes that would work? I used never seize and it worked fine. Available at any auto parts store in a small squeeze tube. Doesn't take much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 I have a 3/8 inch torque wrench the proper crowd foot a 4 inch vice As well as A reaction bar And a dpms recover block ( the white one with the upper pins ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeyChris Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Do you have a 5 or 6 inch bench vise? If so, you can either use the DPMS panther Claw type device to hold the upper, or you can use two blocks of wood and turn the upper 90 degrees and hold it in the vice that way. Coat the threads on the upper with a small amount of grease. Insert barrel and hand tighten the barrel nut. Then, using a barrel nut wrench (such as the one from DPMS), gently hand tighten the nut till you just meet a little resistance. Loosen the nut and retighten until you again just meet resistance. Do this a total of 3 times. What you are doing here is seating the nut to the threads of the upper. Now, simply tighten the barrel nut to the next notch or hole in the nut for the gas tube to pass through cleanly. If you are paranoid, you can rent a half inch torque wrench from Auto Zone for free. AR15 barrel nut torque is typically between 35-80 ft/lb. This typically translates to "snug the nut hand tight, then turn till gas tube can pass". Mick ^^^^This.. the process is really a lot easier than many make it out to be, and it's a ton of fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 Will a reaction rod work fine? also have a whit upper block (the ones with pins) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickB Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 (edited) Your white upper block that uses the two pins will be fine. It is the same one I use. No need for a reaction rod - I have never used one.... I highly recommend buying a proper barrel nut wrench - use the right tool for the job... Mick Edited October 1, 2014 by MickB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtaylor996 Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 I recommend NOT buying a a NCStar v2 wrench... it's a shit casting. The first one I got was warped to hell (before they painted it!), and the second one: chipped a castle nut, broke off a pin on the barrel wrench when going to 80ft-lbs (both due to shitty tolerances that don't spread force properly). Pretty pissed I paid $30 for it Anybody know of any barrel/castle nut wrenches that have the following features: 1. Made of machined tool steel to tight tolerances 2. Can do barrel nuts and castle nuts 3. Has a hole for a 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrench Suggestions please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 I can tell you that the Spikes barrel nut wrench is excellent, if pricey. I wouldn't worry about finding a combination wrench, just buy the best one of each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt91 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 All I need is a 1 and 1/4th crows foot for a 3/8 inch drive It's a proprietary nut for a diamond head vrst rail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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