Frog Lube

[zhunter]

I ordered some, and in reading the directions it says to use alcohol to clean oil off of the gun. It is supposed to be dry before the application of a Frog Lube.

Is any one else using this stuff?

Edited September 11, 2014 by zhunter

[Lee B]

I tried the heat-n-treat method per the directions with a blow dryer on the slide and frame rails and barrel; watched a couple YouTube videos as well. I used their solvent to clean any oil from these areas.

I understand it's a dry lube, but it really seemed to totally burn off after one 300 round session; the action wasn't as smooth as regular oil when I was done practicing. I might try not wiping it all off next time.

For now, I'm back to "wet" lube and will experiment after the major match season. I'd like to see how it works in the winter months any how.

[mgardner]

Too much voodoo and hype. Whenever it doesn't perform as advertised the blame is usually laid on the user as being too dumb to have applied it properly. I tried it and know many who have tried it. All I can say is good luck. I like simple things better.

[jon49erfan]

Works great as a cleaner. Pretty much garbage as a lube.

[jc3257]

I started using it over a year ago. It works very well if you do the first two or three applications with the heat. After that I used it just like an oil. It stays dry feeling until the gun heats up and then gets very slick. However, I had a problem last winter with a Sig P229. It was about 30 degrees out and I could not get the gun to fire. Figured out there was some Frog Lube in the firing pin channel. The lube was in a paste form and prevented the firing pin from moving with enough velocity to make a decent primer strike. I laid the gun on my warm car engine, unloaded of course, and warmed it up. Then it started to work fine. I can't have that kind of issue when I depend on my firearm, so I'm done with Frog Lube. Switched to Rand CLP and never looked back. Both make the gun so easy to clean. Carbon just wipes off. If I lived in a warmer weather area I would probably still be using Frog Lube. But Rand CLP works just as well without the cold weather concern. I use it on all my guns and shoot USPSA and 3-gun with excellent results.

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[s0nny_g17]

I bought the small set of froglube a year ago and until now i have not opened the package

I use one shot to lube my guns

[brisix]

I have used it with my CZ Shadow. One nice side effect it lowered the trigger pull by 8oz on the DA and 4.8oz on the SA. After my range session of about two hundred round the gun was very slick. It does take several cleaning sessions to season the firearm. Will see how things work in the long run but so far I am very happy One of the keys to being successful based on some of the comments above is you need to get all the access off after you have let the gun sit an hour letting the frog-lube soak in. I could see if any excess is left it could gum up the action. Either way using frog-lube takes extra steps that need to be followed to be successful.

My steps

I first cleaned the gun using acetone.

I heated the parts with a heat gun. As hot as you can get with out burning yourself

I applied frog-lube paste with a brush

I let the it sit over night. Minimum recommended soak is 1hr

I wiped "all" the excess with a microfiber cloth and various size swab it foam applicators.

This is my favorite video on Frog-lube

Edited September 12, 2014 by brisix

[Lee B]

I'm game to try it again; this time with more applications and an overnight set in. I had only let it set for one hour for one application

[RigPig]

I see Frog Lube as a "snake oil". Why spend so much on a lube that works marginally at best? Good ol' motor oil works like a dream, and is a tiny fraction of what you'll spend on FL. Plus you don't have all the time and effort wrapped up in the application process. Just tear down the gun and clean as usual, lube with motor oil (synthetic if you want to get fancy) as you put it back together. A quart will likely last you most of your life.

[mgardner]

I have used it with my CZ Shadow. One nice side effect it lowered the trigger pull by 8oz on the DA and 4.8oz on the SA. After my range session of about two hundred round the gun was very slick. It does take several cleaning sessions to season the firearm. Will see how things work in the long run but so far I am very happy One of the keys to being successful based on some of the comments above is you need to get all the access off after you have let the gun sit an hour letting the frog-lube soak in. I could see if any excess is left it could gum up the action. Either way using frog-lube takes extra steps that need to be followed to be successful.

My steps

I first cleaned the gun using acetone.

I heated the parts with a heat gun. As hot as you can get with out burning yourself

I applied frog-lube paste with a brush

I let the it sit over night. Minimum recommended soak is 1hr

I wiped "all" the excess with a microfiber cloth and various size swab it foam applicators.

Like I said in my original post I knew it was because I was too dumb to use it. LOL

Great marketing technique.

Edited September 12, 2014 by mgardner

[BeerBaron]

It's not for me. Seen a bunch of club mates use it, have issues then stop using it. To be fair a bunch of others I know have used it and love it. Just not for me.

Slide glide. Light or regular for rails and lugs

Oil for sear, trigger etc.

Works very well.

[bountyhunter]

I tried the heat-n-treat method per the directions with a blow dryer on the slide and frame rails and barrel; watched a couple YouTube videos as well. I used their solvent to clean any oil from these areas.

I understand it's a dry lube, but it really seemed to totally burn off after one 300 round session; the action wasn't as smooth as regular oil when I was done practicing. I might try not wiping it all off next time.

For now, I'm back to "wet" lube and will experiment after the major match season. I'd like to see how it works in the winter months any how.

MILITEC liquid has the same bag of magic beans...... clean, apply heat at high temp, etc. I think it's bogus. The "dry film of protection" is probably going to last about five minutes. IMHO, a good oil mixed into a good grease is what protects best.

[mgardner]

I've been experimenting with Royal Purple Max Tuff synthetic assembly lube (for protection of high tech bearing components on start up and corrosion protection if they are stored for long periods before use) and so far it works great. A very light film seems best and the fouling just wipes off. It was about 2000 shots before I deep cleaned the pistol and had no issues at all. It works in the heat and dust of AZ and I'm curious now how it performs in cold weather.

[zhunter]

Based on the comments on this tread, I removed the Frog Lube after 24 hours and went back to Mobil 1