Okay Newb to Rifle Here

[dhunt91]

Okay I have ever only reloaded Pistol.

Looking to move into .223/556 for my ar
since I just built/ am in the process of finishing it

and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Press is Hornady LnL

do not have any of the rifle case prep stuff or dies yet

so recomend away.

second: I need to learn to English

[Graham Smith]

You are going to get different answers for this and a lot of them are going to hinge on what kind of shooting you are doing. Reloading for rifle can range from very simple to very complicated.

There's a lot already posted. How much of that have you already looked at?

[dauntedfuture]

Buy a reloading book and read it. In general the process is about the same but you have to lube and trim cases. That's about it. There is lots and lots of information out there. Google "basic rifle reloading"

[FLSlim]

The questions are a bit open-ended. See the comments re: reading manuals and whatever else you can get your hands on. You'll find the reloading process slower than running pistol rounds through your press. Not only do you need to be concerned about case trimming and case lubing (unless you already lube pistol cases) but If you scrounge brass you'll need to swage primer pockets. I've been happy with Lee and Hornady dies, but I'm sure other offerings would be as good or better. Also, read up on rifling twist rates and bullet weights.

[tcoz]

Up until a month ago I also had only loaded for pistol, then started .223. Loading for rifle is a whole different ballgame and case prep is the key. It's where you'll spend the majority of your time and effort. I've listed the steps that I use, but I stress that this is only what I've determined works best for ME and I use a Lee Classic Turret although I batch load my .223 and don't use the auto-index function of my press. It may not be best for you but you can use it as a rough guide to steps that are involved. Good luck. BTW, I enjoy it even more than I enjoy loading for pistol....

My .223 Reloading Steps:

1. Tumble

2. Run neck brush through, place cases head side up in loading tray, inspect primer area for signs of gas leakage and/or loose or misshaped primers.

3. Lube inside neck w/ Imperial dry neck lube and case w/ Imperial sizing wax.

4. Full length size and deprime case.

5. Inspect cases and especially necks for splits, cracks and signs of incipient case head separation. Do paper clip test then run each sized case through gauge.

6. Tumble again for about an hour to remove lube.

7. If case is longer than 1.760, trim to 1.750. Set caliper to 1.758-1.759 and trim those that exceed. If trimmed, chamfer and deburr.

8. Ream each primer pocket to remove crimp then clean pocket. Check case length on random cases, run neck brush through. (If crimp has been removed in the past, Step 8 isn't necessary, however primer pocket should still be cleaned)

9. Prime, charge, visually inspect charge, seat bullet, light crimp if desired.

OAL=use 2.20-2.25 (2.250=best) Seat to middle of cannelure if there is one. Don't exceed 2.260 (max)

***Trim to case length=1.750, ie. trim any case over 1.760 back to 1.750 (1.740 is min & 1.760 is max lengths)

[dhunt91]

Well this looks like a non progressive job.

any special tools i need to make this easier?

[Alaskapopo]

Well this looks like a non progressive job.

any special tools i need to make this easier?

I use a Dillon 550 so yes it is a progressive job.

I run all my brass through on my dillon 1200 trimmer and then after tumbling the cases to remove the lube I switch tool heads out to my .223 tool head and then load up the brass. I average about 250 rounds an hour if you count the case prep time. If not then about 400 and hour.

Pat

[dhunt91]

thanks time to find me a trimmer then if thats all i need

[rdinga]

Brass prices have never been lower. there are lots of dealers on this forum and others that will sell you fully prepped .223 brass that has been sized, deprimed, primer pocket reamed and trimmed. Just take it out of the box, drop your powder, set the bullet and crimp. Try buying a 1000 and then see how much it can simplify your .223 loading process.

[tcoz]

Brass prices have never been lower. there are lots of dealers on this forum and others that will sell you fully prepped .223 brass that has been sized, deprimed, primer pocket reamed and trimmed. Just take it out of the box, drop your powder, set the bullet and crimp. Try buying a 1000 and then see how much it can simplify your .223 loading process.

That's true, but loaded ammo prices are also pretty low, so if you buy your brass ready to load, you're approaching and, maybe in some cases, exceeding the cost of loaded ammo. Somebody who is just getting started is probably reloading for cost reasons and that advantage is mostly gone, especially when you consider the cost of equipment needed. Might as well just buy "ready to shoot" ammo in that case.

[dhunt91]

not really for cost reasons I like the time alone and tbh I wouldnt even reload .223 if i hadnt just built a new 3gun ar i wanta round tuned to it.

still considering doing it at all as there is a commercial reloader here that sells 500rnds for 170 and I never have a problem with them.

Really looking to get into rifle reloading for the simple fact that I want to build (in the future) the new .270 ar and I know I will have to reform brass and reload for it no matter what.