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New to 223 and primer crimp.


cgt

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Hard to tell without looking, it's pretty easy to see if a case has been crimped. Problem is that some commercial cases are crimped, as well as all Mil cases.

Doing all or just the crimped ones mostly depends on whether you are doing it on something like a 1050, or are doing it by hand.

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1) Stop, get a reloading manual. That second question is a bit scary. You need to understand powders and recommended charges

2) You will need to remove the crimp. You can do it with swagger or if you want to you can do it by hand with case neck reamer, the mostly work to the other end too, but slow an painful.

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I have lymans manual been loading for pistol for a while but now moving into the rifle. Much more tedious and more tools. Read on here someone called hodgdon and they stated its same as blc2 but with additives for reduced buildup. Its not a hot powder and is on the slower end of powders. I have my setup curreny at 25gr. Blc2 low end is 23.5 and hi is 26.5. Read of folks going to 27 but im not one for proving my point. It may shoot fast but only once........ just for plinking rounds... have stag arms 3g 18" 1 in 8 twist. Have 55gr. 68gr and 75gr to test w. And have to adjust for bullet too.

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IMG_1063.jpg

This is a photo of some crimps before being removed. They can be any variation of a ring etc.also some have a red or green adhesive around the primer to help hold it in.

IMG_1057.jpg

Some use a drill bit/small counter sink in a drill driver to break the edge of the crimp. I have mine in a drill press when I am trimming and processing mine.

It appears that I don't have any photo's of casings with the crimp removed.

This is what you want to avoid, as it came in a bag of range pick ups I bought!

IMG_1627.jpg

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For me, the best solution to the crimp issue is to ream (or swage) every case the first time I reload it rather than use a magnifying glass (bad 63 year old eyes) to determine whether or not it has a crimp. Then I make absolutely sure that I pick up every damn case that I shoot and keep them separate from range pick-up since I know they don't have to be reamed again. I have a brass catcher to make sure that I don't miss any. I use an RCBS reamer attached to my FA Case Prep System so the process is much easier than doing it by hand but I still get sore fingers after a hundred or so cases.

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If you cant get primers in the cases then there is a crimp. Hornady makes a neat little cutter you can chuck into a drill that you can use to take the crimps out, it is easier for me to do them all as opposed to sorting and then cutting. if I see its a commercial case I toss it into the "crimp removed" bucket.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Welp. 2nd round of resizing.. priming afyer trimming... didnt relube... 2nd bullet stuck die... drilling and making a bullet puller in a couple days. Fml

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If you just trimmed the case you should have already resized it. You don't need to relube as you won't be reusing the sizer die.

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cgt, with all due respect, I think you'd be wise to step back from rifle reloading for a bit. Take the advice that vlad gave you. Read a couple of manuals and read them again. Visit some of the well known and reputable Internet sites and study everything you can before you dive in. The questions you asked about whether you need to ream or swage .223 and 5.56 cases and whether cfe223 can be loaded like BL-C2, as well as your recent post about having a stuck case after a second(?) resizing all indicate a basic lack of understanding. I also loaded pistol for a couple of years before starting .223, but I spent three months studying it before I even bought the additional equipment that I needed.

I'm not being critical here, but this isn't anything to take lightly and it sounds like you may have jumped in before you were ready. For your own safety and of those around you, please try to become more knowledgeable.

Edited by tcoz
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You'll also need a case gauge. Drop the resized case to check the resizing. If it fits flush, then you're within specs. Too short, and you'll have a case head separation, too long, chambering problems and high pressure.

Develop a process for resizing brass. Polish, lube and resize(I use a lube pad and roll ten cases at a time). You'll need just a little lube to avoid a stuck case. Trim to correct overall length, then ream the primer pockets to remove crimp. The reaming also leaves a nice chamfer to guide primers.

Polish again to remove lube so the case can grab the chamber wall when fired.

Follow published data for safety and function.

The more you do, them easier it gets. Go slow, mistakes are difficult and timely to correct.

No radio, no TV, no distractions.

Edited by Mike Morcillo
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  • 3 weeks later...

.. didnt relube... 2nd bullet stuck die... drilling and making a bullet puller in a couple days.

Unlike pistol/straight wall cartridges, lubing cases are just as important. Also, since I'm mentioning it...there is such a thing as too much lube.

Pick up an RCBS stuck case remover. It helps.

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