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RaylanGivens

Dillon 1050 Bearing Kit - What Flat Screws?

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"No permanent press modifications necessary. On a manually pulled Super 1050, the screw heads of the screws that hold the plastic tabs of the shellplate ring will make contact and limit your downstroke after installation. There are two main ways to address this, either grind the heads down flat, or replace them with flat screws (not included). On a motorized 1050, you only need to adjust your dies down lower, and then adjust the motor stroke to not bottom all the way out. The older RL1050 or a 1050 modified by Craig Forcht will work fine as-is."

http://ballistictools.com/store/dillon-1050-bearing-kit

Your web sight says that the flat screws for the Dillon 1050 Bearing Kit are not included... Do you sell them? Or can you advise what screws will work?

I realize I can grind the top of the OEM screws to gain clearance, but I don't usually modify something without a suitable replacement standing by. Don't want to grind too much and render my press inoperative. The OEM screws seem pretty small to start with. Doesn't look like much room to grind off of the top.

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Sorry for the late reply, I don't check here very often. I should check more.

You don't need to grind them very much, and the press can run with only two locking tabs installed if you really needed to, so you could do just two to start with.

I believe a "low profile socket head cap screw" should work, but I haven't tried it, I always ground mine. I'll order some screws and see what works, and just include them with the kit in the future.

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I was wrong, there's really no off the shelf screw that works well that I could find. I suggested flat screws in the product listing, meaning countersunk, since that's what one other seller is selling, but I tried it on my press and the tapered part just breaks the nylon tab in half instead of sinking into it.

The heads need to be 0.055" to 0.050" thick, 3/8" deep, 10/24 thread.

They do make very think "pancake head" screws in metric that are similar to what you'd need, but I can't find them in inch.

So the best bet is still to grind the heads down to about 0.050" There's less wrench engagement at that depth, but you don't need to crank them down really tight anyway.

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