bigarm Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I have a Dillon 550b and am considering expanding to load for .223 also. I have never reloaded for any rifle bullet. What do I need to do? Any special equipment needed? Anything else to help me get started on the right foot? Is it worth it as I shoot 3 gun as does my wife? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimitz Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 The search button is your friend ... There are a million threads in this very sub forum about how to setup for .223 ... And yes, you'll need some more equipment ... A swager and a trimmer for sure ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 One thing to make it much, much easier, and not too much more expensive.. buy pre-processed brass from a reputable seller Processing the brass.. is (to me) tedious and takes the most amount of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Reloading .223 on a 550 is possible, I'm doing it, but it is a royal pain in the sphincter. Obviously the biggest issues are trimming and swaging. My process is (1) decap/resize (2) case gauge to detect cases that need to be trimmed. (3) trim the cases that need trimming. Doing this saves time as I don't use a power trimmer so only trimming those that needed is time efficient. (4) remove primer crimp as needed. I sort my brass and use the commercial non-crimped for bulk short range ammo, and use LC cases for longer range heavier bullet ammo (5) Now you have brass ready to go through. I run a resizer again, powder, sitting, crimp. You may not need another resize, I use an x-die there to keep it from growing but mostly I want to make sure I check that there is no crud in the primer hole. I do this in batches of 500-800 cases. Its a pain in the ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I buy processed brass, all you have to do is load and fire. After first time around, just clean, load and fire. I don't shoot anywhere near as much as I used to, in terms of quantity fired at any one time, and it's a lot easier to just buy a few thousand rounds of prepped brass and truck on. If you are going to shoot 3 gun, practice a lot and loose a lot of brass, then it's worth getting all the proper equipment and doing the entire process yourself. If you do that, still try to stick to one type of brass (I use LC) as it will make better loads than using mixed, especially mixed mil and civilian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soflarick Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Processing isn't difficult, but time consuming. I'm not looking forward to trimming ( I don't have one of them there fancy Girauds). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianATL Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 If shooting 55's and your free time is worth much to you, probably about a wash to just buy in bulk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigarm Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 If shooting 55's and your free time is worth much to you, probably about a wash to just buy in bulk. If I can't save money, then it probably isn't worth the cost to get started as I would need all the things to prep the cases in addition to the dies, etc for the Dillon. I have been saving my brass, but could probably sell it. For short distances, I have been using 55 grain fmj and they are just fine for most of the 3 gun I shoot here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 I'm sure you can save money. Using round numbers, $80 for bullets, $40 for primers, $70-$75 for powder. Thats less then $200 not counting the brass. If you have a pile of brass and get to use it a few times your cost will probably be less then $250 per $1000 for a load you prefer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Processing isn't difficult, but time consuming. I'm not looking forward to trimming ( I don't have one of them there fancy Girauds). Consider one of these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/628405/frankford-arsenal-platinum-series-case-prep-and-trim-center?cm_vc=ProductFinding I've been using this for a few months and I am getting excellent results for a LOT less scratch than the G. For blaster ammo, I use commercial mixed brass and not close to max at all and leave the case mouth square after the trim. For the 69s, I stick with LC brass and do a full process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soflarick Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Have you pulled bullets to see if the square case mouth is shaving copper from the bullet? I'm using a Forster 3n1 on a Classic trimmer, mounted to some thick flat stock I had, and using a reduced speed drill. I'm probably plowing through cases pretty well, but I have a box of over 2k that need trimming, and I am really really not looking forward to doing it on the Forster. The 3n1 does all 3 operations in one, and the results are nice, and consistent. Heck, even a Gracey with the updated cutting head might be a good option. I wonder if there's a cutter out there that would fit the Frankford unit. McMaster has a whole list of cutting bits that people have used for trimming operations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 The cutter looks like a standard one to me. I've inspected the bullets and pulled several and there is a scratch here and there, but not shavings. For blaster ammo, not too concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoz Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 As mentioned, it's all about case prep when reloading for rifle. The required extra equipment needed didn't cost much, but since I'm an old guy with bad arthritis in my fingers, manual case prep was out of the question for me. I bought the Frankford Arsenal Case Prep Trim Center for about $160 and it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. For another $7 I picked up a Lyman Reamer and replaced the included primer pocket cleaner on the FA with it so now trimming, deburring, chamfering, crimp removal and primer pocket cleaning are all done on the same piece of equipment at about 15 seconds per case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuJudge Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Reloading does not save me anything. It makes it such that I shoot a lot more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigarm Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 (edited) The Frankford Arsenal Case Prep Trim Center looks like a good way to go especially since just a hand trimmer is close to $100. Would this be the part I need to remove the crimp? http://www.precisionreloading.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PRE&Product_Code=HN390750&Category_Code=PRIME_POCK_TOOL_CASE or this (less because of shipping): http://www.ebay.com/itm/HORNADY-Small-Primer-Pocket-Reamer-Kit-041203-/131258482122?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8f9d7dca Edited August 11, 2014 by bigarm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoz Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 The Frankford Arsenal Case Prep Trim Center looks like a good way to go especially since just a hand trimmer is close to $100. Would this be the part I need to remove the crimp? http://www.precisionreloading.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PRE&Product_Code=HN390750&Category_Code=PRIME_POCK_TOOL_CASE or this (less because of shipping): http://www.ebay.com/itm/HORNADY-Small-Primer-Pocket-Reamer-Kit-041203-/131258482122?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8f9d7dca Either one would work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3guns Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 I found the Frankford Arsenal Case Prep Center at www.grabagun.com for under $145. You can't beat that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenr Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) Here is some more on the Franklin set up. Just did about 300 cases today,mostly 5.56's For crimp removal I use a 1/4'drill bit or counter sink in a drill press and just hold it up to the drill and knock the crimp off. it is about the fast way I found with out buying any other equipment. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=198945#entry2210281 I use a gauge and electronic calipers and don't trim every one just the ones that need it. Edited September 21, 2014 by glenr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoz Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 glenr, in your post that you linked to, you showed a picture of a wire brush type primer pocket cleaner that you've substituted for the one that came with the FA system. I found the same issue with the FA head in that it seems to be a little too large and removes too much brass. I've been looking at the brush type (RCBS) and was wondering if it did a good job of cleaning. Now that you've used it for awhile, are you satisfied with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenr Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 glenr, in your post that you linked to, you showed a picture of a wire brush type primer pocket cleaner that you've substituted for the one that came with the FA system. I found the same issue with the FA head in that it seems to be a little too large and removes too much brass. I've been looking at the brush type (RCBS) and was wondering if it did a good job of cleaning. Now that you've used it for awhile, are you satisfied with it? Well I'm not big on clean primer pockets. If they are still black or curd caked after the shell tumble I hit them with the brush. I all use a .22 barrel cleaning brush in one hole and since most are just getting a slight chamfer on the inside of the neck. Unless trimming I will use the lee hand tool. I think that is what that one is RCBS bought it with some other items and can't remember what brand it is. I only hit it for two or so twists of the wrist. I don't think it takes much brass off. It is a well built unit for the money. I got it on sale @ Midway. And so far all brands of the chamfer bits and cleaning brushes fit the threaded shafts 8-24 if I remember correctly. What nice is you can use it in almost any orientation. So when the hand gets tired you can move it or turn it a different way, not to mention the adjustable stand feet. Adjusting the trimming is pretty easy if you follow the directions. I do use my WFT in a drill press if I have hundreds to trim. I only shot 5.56/223's in the bottle neck cases so I don't have to change the trimmer on the FA. On the flat blade ones for small and large pockets I found that with it turning i had to slow up and watch the target of the pocket. The brush is so much easier to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Morcillo Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Don't forget to check your resized brass in a case gauge. If you have excessive head space, a case head separation could occur pushing 55k psi through your receiver and magazine well. Very bad results. Take your time and produce perfect cartridges, the results are worth it. I use my Dillon 550, but load only one round at a time, checking for neck tension as the bullet is seated. 55gr, FMJBT in bulk, Hornady, works best for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now