Dewberry Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) So I've been using a benelli SBE for 3 gun for the past 2 years. I love the long loading port and how the fore grip and trigger guard are situated for loading. I've opened up the loading port, added a extended tube and welded the lift gate. I love the gun and there are still some things I want to do to it (extended bolt release, match saver, and extended bolt handle) But it has trouble cycling about 2% of the light 7.5 loads I use for 3 gun. So I want to put in a reduced power recoil spring. I found a 25% reduced power spring by Wolff. I'm planning on installing this. Am I going to have any trouble running standard 2 3/4 slugs or buck shot with the reduced spring? Or will I have to run reduced recoil slugs and buck shot only? Thanks for the help guys Edited July 21, 2014 by Dewberry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 For the spring that seems like a pretty hefty drop. I'm not sure I would go that light. You won't hurt the gun, but it will really close slow and you might over run the trigger a lot. I think if you really must go lighter I would get one of Taran's springs from Taran Tactical. Also I would look into a tab like the Dave Metal Works or the Red Neck Tactical. You don't have to drill and tap,and it doesn't put any stress on the button. I have seen quite a few buttons breaking off lately due to the lever type bolt releases putting a side load on the button which it was never designed to withstand, and then it is weakened further by drilling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Dewberry, What is the velocity and weight of the shot in the shells that are not cycling well? I have always found that 1 1/8 oz of shot going 1200 fps (a pretty standard 3 dram target load) would reliably cycle my SBE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbrowndog Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) I agree with Firearm Feline, Benelli's run much more reliably with 3 dram loads or heavier. if your desire is to shoot lighter loads reliably then your gun choice should be different. if your desire is to have a reliable, easy to load, light, accurate, SG..... then give it what it needs. When i shot a Benelli they only got 3.25dram loads for match ammo, and 3 dram for practice this helps eliminate or minimize gun issues from being slightly out of a good shooting position and give the gun enough "oomph" to ensure proper cycling. My SBE has the standard weight spring and has reliably run 3 dram loads whenever I shot them, but I don't use them in major matches, also remember "proper and adequate lubrication" not minimal lubrication!!! trapr BTW, Mr. Rose the front sight base on the Ruger is working out great, thanks again!!!! Edited July 21, 2014 by bigbrowndog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 BTW, Mr. Rose the front sight base on the Ruger is working out great, thanks again!!!! Glad to hear it! A Bisley gripped Ruger in .45 Colt can be an interesting gun and load. I’ve probably read every story Ross Seyfried wrote about them …and I’ve got mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewberry Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Thanks for all the help guys. I've been shooting walmart federal bulk packs. 3 dram 1 1/8 oz 7 1/2 shot. At 1200 FPS. At major matches when allowed I'll shoot winchester 6 shot, I think its 1350 fps. I've never had a problem with it. I'm just wanting to gun to run clean with cheap ammo for local matches. I didn't know about the taran tactical spring, I will definitely go with that over the other one. I like those tab style bolt release me check better. Bigger target for my fingers anyway. Any suggestions for correct lube? In the past couple month I've gone from the it's a benelli it will run dirty mindset to this is my competition gun and I want top performance out of it so I need to baby it mindset. I just field strip wipe everything down. Ill take the bolt apart if i think it needs it. Use tooth brush for stubborn stuff then put lube on all the surfaces where there is visable wear, put back together and cycle a dozen times. I run it kinda wet in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.Schmitt Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I have been using slide glide on the bolt with great success. Cant use it when it gets cold however. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradfromND Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I just use mobil 1 synthetic on mine. Put a drop on the cam pin, a drop on each side of the bolt slides and down the rails in the receiver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRider Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I use Royal Purple synthetic 85W90 gear oil on my Benelli's (also on my Armalite AR10, JP CTR-02, STI Eagle and various 1911s). It has great lubricity, is heavy enough to stay on parts and doesn't burn off easily. It pours at 0*F and I have not ever had cycling issues in the winter. As far as Walmart Federal Bulk pack, I have had two or three out of the last 1000 or so that were out of round and didn't feed in my Benelli M1. I use them for practice and some local matches, but for anything that matters, I use Winchester AA, either Light Targets for clay stages or Super Handicap for steel stages. Hurley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbrowndog Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 think of it as you would an AR bolt carrier group, lube the cam pin, the rails, the lugs, all of that can be done without having to take the gun apart, even oiling the cam pin, you just need to be able to aim the oil into the spot. Brownells "FREE" oil from match shooter packs, FP10, automatic tranny fluid, synthetic motor oil, etc. just don't use any of the really light stuff that flows like water or something you'd drink. there is a shotgun oiling tutorial on the redneck tactical FB page, with pictures and other stuff. Trapr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewberry Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 What do y'all think about using grease on the part of the bolt the touches the frame. (I want to call them the rails but I'm not sure.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbrowndog Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 not normal grease it tends to be to heavy and can slow bolt speed, if you mix lithium grease with oil (50/50) you will get a good runny slurry mix, this works well on the rails and cam pin. Trapr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akkid17 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 I throw grease on the inside of the receiver and the rails on the bolt then hose down everything with either militec or rem-oil. Haven't had issues with this combo this far on my versamax. Might be overkill but it also makes it really easy to clean since all the crud in there sticks to the grease and I just wipe it out and reapply, lather, rinse, repeat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewberry Posted July 25, 2014 Author Share Posted July 25, 2014 Yeah I used grease made by weapon shield. It feels pretty good. I'm going to put a box of shells through it before I change this recoil spring out. That way I can isolate problems if there are any. The recoil spring came in today. And I also ordered another tube so my capacity is now 13 or 12 instead of 9. I'm excited to try it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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