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Best Enhanced Trigger for my Glock?


LHshooter

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Dregarcia ; You have shared about being a gunsmith. Did you do these mods for yourself. How do keep all 3 safeties functioning , OR are they. Can you open your gun up, and show us a video

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Pre-Travel:

I personally despise pre-travel, I like none, I want my trigger sitting on the 'wall', the OC trigger has (like many systems) a small adjustment screw in it, where you can set your pre travel from near-OEM, to where I like it.

Because of the complete removal of pre-travel I don't really have a 'wall' feeling, that where my movement starts.

Break feel/Weight:

The break is very refined, I don't want to use the word 'crisp', because I feel like that insulates something heavier than this setup. I personally have zero jerk to fire, there is positive resistance that lets you know you're on the trigger, but it is even, smooth... Refined. And the weight is as light as I've ever felt in a Glock and then some. We'll just say ~2.5#

what did you modify to keep the guns horizontal trigger housing safety operable? Also if OC is reshaping the radius of the birds beak or nose of the transfer bar to be where you stated you are your triggers resting position would be even more past the safety shelf.

This is the question^^^^^ I'm really wondering about.How do you still have a safe gun? I think BOOM may be after the same info I am because what your describing here absolutely(unless counter modifications are made to correct them) puts you in the red zone with the trigger housing safety as well as engaging the firing pin safety with the vertical extension. This to my knowledge is why Vanick quit making his super trigger because people were over adjusting the pre travel into the red zone. If you did not modify anything then I would say, unload your gun of course, rack it then, hold the fore end of the gun around the slide and rail and smack the grip bottom off a carpeted floor like a hammer. Make sure you have an orange back half backplate on so you can see there.. If the seer is sitting there with the striker 1/2' in front of it then drop safety is not functioning. I can't tell you how many times the sweetest triggers have been unsafe. Some guys just take out there firing pin safety tell me that's not crazy. I'm not trying to be a know it all I just don't really know your experience so I'd thought I'd mention it. Just lookin out if ya know what I'm sayin.

Edited by BigBoss
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Johnny Boss, thanks for the trigger shelf tip. I have a DKinsler set up, with pre travel removed to where the trigger pad is about a 1/16 away from the frame but I was unsure if the trigger drop was functioning. I just did your whack test and it passed. How can I be sure that the firing pin block is also working? I looked into frame and the pin is setting right on the shelf of the vertical extension, however the block is just slightly raised when slide is in battery, when pulling the trigger of course it raises entirely and gun fires. I would like more proof if possible. Sorry if I hijacked thread a little.

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Your ~2.5# pull is heavier than 2#5oz. in my Glock [emoji41]

You are aware of what this symbol ~ means? Approximately, as in, anyone who gets this setup will have an approximate 2.5# pull. Depends on springing... My personal USPSA limited setup is 2.1#

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You gave a figure precise to the last tenth of measurement then put ~ before it to connote its approximate. Better make up your mind w/c you really intend to convey. Being precise or just an estimate. If I say my reloaded ammo's col is ~1.234" how would it appear to you?

But my point was your 2.5# = 2#8oz is heavier than my 2#5oz trigger pull. Think my conversion is correct?

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There you go Roosteryou got your answer from the horses mouth.The scalloped mod that thd group you questioned me about uses was originally designed by ZEV. Most assume it's "JUST" for safety but if you study the Glock system it's nearly impossible to achieve fire pin push through until your at the complete zenith of that vertical extension. My take is that since ZEV sells their bar as a standalone unit. They realized that the stock firing pin safety or plunger as some call it is a bevel instead of a radius. So therefore to reduce drag due to unnecessary surface area friction they replaced the bevel to bevel engagement of the stock glock system with a radius thereby reducing potential drag. Now what gets me thinking that it may have just been a cosmetic change so the consumer feels like they're getting something different is the fact that ZEV's aftermarket firing pin safety is rounded. Which puts them right back to two matching surfaces.All and all and the geometry absolutely back my claim is that it is not really necessary to take anything off of that vertical extension.more concerned with that modification is this at that maybe too much was taken off the very top of the vertical extension. This is something that would not be evident only after a weekend of screwed memore concerned with that modification is this at that maybe too much was taken off the very top of the vertical extension. This is something that would not be evident till after maybe 500 to say a thousand rounds but sometimes full show with as little as a hundred. And especially with lightened strikers it becomes more of an issue. What I'm talking about is burrs or serrations on the top shelf of the firing pin safety due to lack of 100% depression. If you take you are firing pin safety out and examine it if this dysfunction is present you will see exactly what I'm talking about. It happens most often with lightened strikers springs and the scalloped vertical extension modification. When this happens it will trap and prevent the striker from returningto resting position immediately after ignition. Therefore the firing pin tip extrude through the breach face and the next round that is stripped will hang up on the firing pin tip

Edited by BigBoss
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Thanks Big Boss for attempting to get to truth of what some are calling a TUNED TRIGGER. When I had the chance to speak with Charlie Vanick over the phone and asked about his Super Trigger. One of the comments he made concerning his trigger job was the firing pin plunger (YES a nice shiny button ). To me that means more of a high polished radius witch would delay the safety engagement as your pulling the trigger back. One other thing that's been on my to do list is DKs - Fin Mod on the trigger bar (See his web page for Pic's) I do believe it will also help delay the safety plunger from depressing as quickly . Doing both these mods together makes sense to me. :ph34r: Sorry for hijacking the OP thread

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Boom try it yourself but ifyou depress the firing pin safety even halfway you'll see that it will not disengage. that little sucker really needs to be fully pressed in to allow the firing pin to pass through the breach face. and like I said on my edited post the bigger problem is taking too much off the top and following up the shelves on the safety itself. Everyone reading this post would be wise to firing pin safety out and inspect it especially if you're using lightened strikers.

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Understand NOT changing the height it has to be there. For me Its more about eliminating any extra surface area that's not necessary and really creating friction or drag . I look at the contact between fin, and the firing pin plunger should be more like 2 ball bearing shaped surfaces running over one another than how it is from the factory. YES this is minor, but it all adds up in the pull weight a trigger feel

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What I take from BigBoss is that the problem is twofold? 1. The plunger is delayed a bit upwards could bind the striker moving forward causing intermittent misfires. 2. The plunger releases downward too early trapping the striker moving rearward and the fp tip protruding out of the fp hole preventing the succeeding round to feed resulting to ftf jam.

Ive seen these binding marks in my enhanced and non enhanced triggers' plungers so I wonder if these is inherent in Glocks and need to be improved. Or remove the fp pin safety altogether in competition Glocks.

Edited by BoyGlock
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You can remove the plunger in a Glock that is used in say Limited/L10/Open. It's like removing the parts from a series 80 1911. Or from a CZ or anything else. You can not remove it from the Production. Division. I do not recommend removing it for plain safety reasoning BUT I did run a G35 at 14' GA State USPSA match without one for testing purposes. I honestly had no discernible difference in trigger feel. All in all everyone does things the way they do them as the think is best. All of us are a little different in approach but it's all about what you want versus what someone else wants. To each their own like cars vs trucks etc etc. It all leads to shooting which is what we love to do. I won't get every customer out there and that's ok, ZEV won't get every customer out there and that's ok, GLOCK triggers, Vanek, Johnny no one will get every customer and it's ok. It's ok to mix and match things if that is your thing. We have all done it, it's one of the reasons we choose GLOCK as the platform to shoot. Just be safe and be happy in the choices you make that is all that matters.

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Agree 100% w/ you dsk. Bottom line is the users' preference and discretion. Knowledgable users tend to be concerned w/ safety more than the less informed crowd. These enhancements are only good for competition use.

Eta. Except Prod. Div. guns ?

Edited by BoyGlock
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I agree nicely put DK! I know this post got totally hi jacked but it's all good stuff. As DK and BoyGlock stated already it is all about safety. I know if I read a post and it seems off then I question for safety sake and knowledge . I feel if someone knows better and says nothing out of fear of being misinterpreted as a know it all or better than then they are not doing there due diligence to prevent a possible fatal AD. I have witnessed first hand catastrophes that just wreck life's and tear communities apart that could have easily been avoided had someone who known better said something. The reason I love this forum is because there is a lot of experience and knowledge here. It can get heated now and again but when your passionate about what you do that's part of the turf. Most of the time it's so mistaken because it's really hard to decipher tone from the written word on a screen. And DK if I may add -I don't know if any of us would really want EVERY customer out there. It would more than likely take all the fun away from our chosen profession. You know you've arrived when your job never feels like a job. Until tax time that is.

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Well it is what it is really. Working on any gun platform for me is like my real job and approached as so. One will never know it all and there are always things to reconsider and new things to try and new things to learn. I am not perfect and never made any claims of 100% perfection, I learn from my mistakes they are teachable moments. Just like with the 1911 work I am learning, or the bomar cuts for a glock slide or serrations etc etc.

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This is starting to getting disgustingly mushy LOL; Were never going to get anyone to divulged any trade secretes like this ? So lets just leave our Glock triggers alone (NA!) Back to the OP question

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The best trigger varies with the end user.

I worked on two new Glocks today for a very good local shooter who wanted the trigger for his G34 different from the trigger for his G19 which he will carry and shoot in Production and GSSF. We tried different combinations and had plenty gun talk and when he left several hours later he was satisfied he had a very good trigger in each pistol for HIS USE.

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JBP55 Soooooooooooooo What was the different combination you added to make this Glock seem like best enhanced trigger he's every had. You did say he was satisfied

An enhanced triger bar with as little pre travel and over travel as possible and all trigger components polished with all safeties working and a 4# Wolff firing pin spring. He is a long time reloader so he should have no issues with light striks and he left with several of each 4#,4.5#,5# Wolff firing pin springs for the 2 pistols.

He plans to run a 13# RSA. Other springs are OEM.

I would never say it is the best trigger he ever had because he wrenches on 1911's and has CZ's, HK's, 1911's and other pistols with enhanced triggers.

I tried many different combinations and the pistol is set up exactly the way HE wants it and that is what matters. The only difference between his final setup and one of my Gen 4 G34's is the RSA, firing pin and sights.

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