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Best Enhanced Trigger for my Glock?


LHshooter

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I have the same question as the OP. I've read lots of posts on the forum about Glock triggers and kits, but I've never read about a particular technique and how a kit enhanced their performance.

For instance, I find with my stock Glock 17, I press the trigger through the initial take-up and pause at the "wall." At that point I verify sight alignment and continue the press to fire the round. That works great when punching paper at the 15 yard line, but it doesn't work well while running and gunning in a 3-gun match.

When shooting 3-gun or trying to shoot quickly wherever I am, my technique changes and press through the entire trigger travel without a pause. This causes my sight control to go into the crapper and rounds end up where I don't want them to me.

I think eliminating pre travel and lowering the overall "weight" of the stock trigger will help solve my problem.

Am I on track? Which trigger would you recommend to help me control my sights during rapid fire?

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I have the same question as the OP. I've read lots of posts on the forum about Glock triggers and kits, but I've never read about a particular technique and how a kit enhanced their performance.

For instance, I find with my stock Glock 17, I press the trigger through the initial take-up and pause at the "wall." At that point I verify sight alignment and continue the press to fire the round. That works great when punching paper at the 15 yard line, but it doesn't work well while running and gunning in a 3-gun match.

When shooting 3-gun or trying to shoot quickly wherever I am, my technique changes and press through the entire trigger travel without a pause. This causes my sight control to go into the crapper and rounds end up where I don't want them to me.

I think eliminating pre travel and lowering the overall "weight" of the stock trigger will help solve my problem.

Am I on track? Which trigger would you recommend to help me control my sights during rapid fire?

Hop over to our vendor page and click the banner or click the link in my signature. Have a look around and ask questions there or via the contract page :-)

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I press the trigger through the initial take-up and pause at the "wall." At that point I verify sight alignment and continue the press to fire the round. That works great when punching paper at the 15 yard line, but it doesn't work well while running and gunning in a 3-gun match.

Theres only one way to control the trigger; the right way. You include much of that in the sentence above. You can do all those things and have .018 splits if you get the whole picture. That first sentence you wrote; you do that all during dead time, during the draw, or the recoil cycle. get that done there, and youll be ready to shoot faster than you can possibly be ready.

I think eliminating pre travel and lowering the overall "weight" of the stock trigger will help solve my problem.

Pre-travel is only a small part of the trigger's characteristic. Its not usually a limiting one.

Am I on track? Which trigger would you recommend to help me control my sights during rapid fire?

You control your sights with your grip, your sights control your trigger, and vice versa.

As a guy who makes his living working on guns and doing triggers, thow yourself a 3.5# connector in your glock and seek out training. Good solid pistol fundamental skills; trigger control, sight alignment, grip, stance, follow through. it will be the best money you spend in this endeavor.

Most importantly, vet your information. especially on this forum and on social media. See who stands to gain based on their recommendations. Its getting to be like amway out here.

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I press the trigger through the initial take-up and pause at the "wall." At that point I verify sight alignment and continue the press to fire the round. That works great when punching paper at the 15 yard line, but it doesn't work well while running and gunning in a 3-gun match.

Theres only one way to control the trigger; the right way. You include much of that in the sentence above. You can do all those things and have .018 splits if you get the whole picture. That first sentence you wrote; you do that all during dead time, during the draw, or the recoil cycle. get that done there, and youll be ready to shoot faster than you can possibly be ready.

I think eliminating pre travel and lowering the overall "weight" of the stock trigger will help solve my problem.

Pre-travel is only a small part of the trigger's characteristic. Its not usually a limiting one.

Am I on track? Which trigger would you recommend to help me control my sights during rapid fire?

You control your sights with your grip, your sights control your trigger, and vice versa.

As a guy who makes his living working on guns and doing triggers, thow yourself a 3.5# connector in your glock and seek out training. Good solid pistol fundamental skills; trigger control, sight alignment, grip, stance, follow through. it will be the best money you spend in this endeavor.

Most importantly, vet your information. especially on this forum and on social media. See who stands to gain based on their recommendations. Its getting to be like amway out here.

Mike, thanks for the detailed response. I'm not seeing a lot of differences in the recommended "triggers" available these days. Some are more adjustable than others, but given where I am now, I think having the customer service available to discuss problems, techniques, etc. is the most important thing.

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There's a reason he said 3.5lbs connector. It's all you need to change.

I've seen the ghost connectors but it looks like most other vendors offer the other parts "connected" to the connector. Is everything else unnecessary?

I'm assuming changing the connector won't affect the amount of pre travel in my trigger. For those recommending only changing the connector, is the pre travel not an issue for you?

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I don't really care about pre travel. I only take it up once, and I do it without thinking. I have never tried the expensive trigger systems for the glock. I am not at a high enough skill level to think the trigger is holding me back.

I did drop a connector and some springs into it when i first got it, but that was mostly because I like to tinker.

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Zev without a doubt

I liked my Zev in my G35 except that it they broke on 5 separate occasions :surprise:

All related to a failure on the trigger itself (faulty materials, broken springs... etc) that disabled the external safety and/or locked the trigger-up during a series of Level I or II matches. They were very willing to replace the trigger/bar however I could no longer trust the product and went with a Glocktriggers set-up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Zev without a doubt

I liked my Zev in my G35 except that it they broke on 5 separate occasions :surprise:

All related to a failure on the trigger itself (faulty materials, broken springs... etc) that disabled the external safety and/or locked the trigger-up during a series of Level I or II matches. They were very willing to replace the trigger/bar however I could no longer trust the product and went with a Glocktriggers set-up.

never thought it was possible. i shoot the crap out of all my limited glocks,all of them with zev triggers, i can't see how those can fall apart.a trigger bar, trigger pad , a connector and 3 springs :surprise: .

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I press the trigger through the initial take-up and pause at the "wall." At that point I verify sight alignment and continue the press to fire the round. That works great when punching paper at the 15 yard line, but it doesn't work well while running and gunning in a 3-gun match.

Theres only one way to control the trigger; the right way. You include much of that in the sentence above. You can do all those things and have .018 splits if you get the whole picture. That first sentence you wrote; you do that all during dead time, during the draw, or the recoil cycle. get that done there, and youll be ready to shoot faster than you can possibly be ready.

I think eliminating pre travel and lowering the overall "weight" of the stock trigger will help solve my problem.

Pre-travel is only a small part of the trigger's characteristic. Its not usually a limiting one.

Am I on track? Which trigger would you recommend to help me control my sights during rapid fire?

You control your sights with your grip, your sights control your trigger, and vice versa.

As a guy who makes his living working on guns and doing triggers, thow yourself a 3.5# connector in your glock and seek out training. Good solid pistol fundamental skills; trigger control, sight alignment, grip, stance, follow through. it will be the best money you spend in this endeavor.

Most importantly, vet your information. especially on this forum and on social media. See who stands to gain based on their recommendations. Its getting to be like amway out here.

Mike, thanks for the detailed response. I'm not seeing a lot of differences in the recommended "triggers" available these days. Some are more adjustable than others, but given where I am now, I think having the customer service available to discuss problems, techniques, etc. is the most important thing.

Excellent post from BiggenF15. Learn to shoot what you have. There is no free lunch to success by spending money on one of these triggers. The only place I differ is that the "dot" (so-called 5.5 trigger) has a sharper break than the "minus" (so-called 4.5 trigger). I prefer the sharp break, but I can see it is a matter of personal preference so others might prefer the "minus" connector. Either one is pretty good.

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I have been shooting in local USPSA matches for the past 9 months and am still tweaking my Glock 17 to improve performance. I have added Dawson Precision fiber optic sights, a competition spring kit, and a 3.5 lb connector and like the results I have obtained. I am now looking to ad an enhanced trigger to remove the pre- and post- trigger travel. Doing some research, I have found the Phantom trigger from Rock your Glock, the Pyramid trigger from the Glock Store, and the Zev Tech trigger from Glockworx. The basic trigger assemblies all seem comparable to me with the trigger machined from billet aluminum and Allen screws to adjust the pre- and post- trigger travel. Other than price (the Phantom is around $100, the Pyramid $135 and the Zev Tech $150) what am I missing? Is one of these three better than the other two? are there other trigger assemblies I should be looking at? Any recommendations and insights would be appreciated before I leap and buy something I might regret.

Thanks

I'm telling you, all of this advice is great, but NONE is going to be top notch for the price as this nugget right here:

Glock_made trigger, Zev V4 connector, Zev plunger. That's it. Install yourself, use stock springs. The glock Made company in newer, the trigger they make is TOP NOTCH. I believe the website is OCCUSTOMTRIGGERS... They are $35 I think.

Try it, if you don't want it, send it to me, I'll buy it off of you. But I promise you'll never look back. If you need any more testament, I exchanged ALL of my glock triggers with them. Including the one done by salient, my pyramid, my fulcrum, and my Vogel trigger.

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Glock_made trigger, Zev V4 connector, Zev plunger. That's it. Install yourself, use stock springs. The glock Made company in newer, the trigger they make is TOP NOTCH. I believe the website is OCCUSTOMTRIGGERS... They are $35 I think.

.

I just did the. 25 cent job on my G19 gen 4...lighten it just a tad. I'm over 6.5 lb pull.... just heavier than i want and longgg. Not sure why the pull on this G19 is this heavy. It is stock... 150 rounds thru it. I'm thinking of doing these mods. I do not carry.... But thinking about it.... otherwise this is home defense and shooting at my own range. I do not shoot competition.

Questions... did you use stock spring on the plunger as well? What weight did you end up with? What was your reasoning in not using Zev springs?

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My $.02

Triggers are irrelevant, skill is not. (within reason and a factory GLOCK trigger is well within reason) Just watch a video of JM busting out .14 splits with a revolver.

That said I still dork with mine, because I like to, but I know it is not going to make a real difference in my shooting.

Good fundamentals make a big difference, a great trigger can help cover up bad fundamentals, but only to a point.

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That said I still dork with mine, because I like to, but I know it is not going to make a real difference in my shooting.

That's part of the fun!

I run a glocktriggers.com edge drop in kit. I like it a lot. Since I am making some changes I decided to get a Zev trigger to test out because i think i will like the flat, smooth face. I have not received it yet so I cannot compare the two.

edit: I will also gain pre-travel adjustment with the zev trigger.

Edited by darkvibe
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My $.02

Triggers are irrelevant, skill is not. (within reason and a factory GLOCK trigger is well within reason)

I suppose that is why almost 100% of the competition shooters have enhanced triggers because they do not help correct?

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  • 1 month later...

Santa brought me a DK Custom trigger set for Christmas and I'm very happy with it. I like the decreased pre-travel and lighter, crisper break of the trigger. I've only put about 150 rounds down the barrel but this is a big improvement over the original!

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I also have the zev tech standard trigger kit in my g17. It is pretty good. Definitely better than the stock trigger. I would recommend either ther standard or the fulcrum. Both are good depending on your desired outcome.

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