SERVED_USMC Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 If you want a little less recoil, try an M3000. A bit heavier than the M2 and with a KickEze pad, softer than an M2. I need to get my hands on one and give it a try. They seem to be hard to beat for the money. Like anything shooting related, I'm sure inconsistencies in technique play a part with the recoil issues with my M2, but I shoot with a 73 year old man that runs a versamax and runs it well. The lack of recoil is a huge factor in that. Watching videos of myself running that benelli looks like someone is jabbing me in the chin every time I pull the trigger. It's no wonder my split/transition times are terrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Here is my 13 year old shooting some different loads through one. He was 96 pounds in the video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bergy24 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 For what's it worth, I have a Versamax tactical modded for 3 gun and love it. Knock on wood, it runs like a champ. Granted I bought it used for a great price, but even if I had to drop another $100 into it I wouldn't complain. Look for one that is used and is proven to be reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 The VM is reliable, much more so than some of the others on the market. But if you want to go past about 2K, they need about $100 of Benelli parts put in. I am well over 10K on my VM and it still gets shot (as a loaner) at more local matches a year than my M2 or Blake's M3000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SERVED_USMC Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Any word on the V3? Parts the same as the versa? Aftermarket versa options compatable with the V3? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theKenny Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 The VM is reliable, much more so than some of the others on the market. But if you want to go past about 2K, they need about $100 of Benelli parts put in. I am well over 10K on my VM and it still gets shot (as a loaner) at more local matches a year than my M2 or Blake's M3000. Mark, i know there is a list somewhere but I cannot find it. Could you list your recommended benelli parts for the VM? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hammer, hammer spring, lifter spring, cam pin. Hone the barrel, polish and relieve the shell catch. Those are not 3gun mods, but reliability/function mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Any word on the V3? Parts the same as the versa? Aftermarket versa options compatable with the V3? I think our magazine tube will work, but have not been able to try one yet. The hammer and springs are supposed to be the same too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theKenny Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hammer, hammer spring, lifter spring, cam pin. Hone the barrel, polish and relieve the shell catch. Those are not 3gun mods, but reliability/function mods. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkynoch Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Mark you mentioned lifter alignment I think this is a problem that I am having with my welded lifter. How do you go about aligning it? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 (edited) Mark you mentioned lifter alignment I think this is a problem that I am having with my welded lifter. How do you go about aligning it? Thanks It is more keeping the shell centered enough to enter the chamber. There are a myriad of issues that can crop up with welded lifters. Nose contacting the shells, not enough force in the spring to elevate the now heavier lifter and misalignment. The notch that is on the front of the lifters is intended to center the shell as it is being chambered. The relatively square front profile of shotgun shells is not conducive to perfect chambering. When you remove the notch so it won't bite your thumb, you have eliminated a reliability design feature. The first thing to do is to figure out what is happening. Is it really an alignment issue, which usually has the symptom of the shell caught on the crimp as the bolt is running forward. In most cases, the shell gets snagged or cut on the extractor cut of the barrel. If that is the case, then taking off the sharp corners with a bevel will fix the problem in most cases. Edited September 2, 2015 by MarkCO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcetera Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 (edited) Same here. Getting the same groups as you get. They are more patterns than groups. I think the max safe range with slugs is about 80 meters. Which is really not that bad considering buckshot is maxed out at 40 meters with Flite Control Wad ammo. My versa comp still prints quite poorly with slugs w/group appx 10-12 inches at 100 & even at 25 yds can tell the fliers not really left or right, up/down etc. Edited September 2, 2015 by etcetera Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Doc Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Same here. Getting the same groups as you get. They are more patterns than groups. I think the max safe range with slugs is about 80 meters. Which is really not that bad considering buckshot is maxed out at 40 meters with Flite Control Wad ammo. My versa comp still prints quite poorly with slugs w/group appx 10-12 inches at 100 & even at 25 yds can tell the fliers not really left or right, up/down etc. Try B&P slugs. Very accurate with my versamax, Rio slugs on the other hand all over the place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theKenny Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Same here. Getting the same groups as you get. They are more patterns than groups. I think the max safe range with slugs is about 80 meters. Which is really not that bad considering buckshot is maxed out at 40 meters with Flite Control Wad ammo. My versa comp still prints quite poorly with slugs w/group appx 10-12 inches at 100 & even at 25 yds can tell the fliers not really left or right, up/down etc. Try B&P slugs. Very accurate with my versamax, Rio slugs on the other hand all over the place My VM does really well with the B&Ps. unfortunately no longer made or importing and there is only 1 place to get them i know of. Federal low recoils are also good and the Fiocchi are fine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkynoch Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Mark you mentioned lifter alignment I think this is a problem that I am having with my welded lifter. How do you go about aligning it? Thanks It is more keeping the shell centered enough to enter the chamber. There are a myriad of issues that can crop up with welded lifters. Nose contacting the shells, not enough force in the spring to elevate the now heavier lifter and misalignment. The notch that is on the front of the lifters is intended to center the shell as it is being chambered. The relatively square front profile of shotgun shells is not conducive to perfect chambering. When you remove the notch so it won't bite your thumb, you have eliminated a reliability design feature. The first thing to do is to figure out what is happening. Is it really an alignment issue, which usually has the symptom of the shell caught on the crimp as the bolt is running forward. In most cases, the shell gets snagged or cut on the extractor cut of the barrel. If that is the case, then taking off the sharp corners with a bevel will fix the problem in most cases. The shell if getting cut and catching on the extractor slot. I have beveled the outside edhe of the chamber but it still catches and hangs a shell up sometimes. When it happens I just have to pull the bolt back slightly and let it go and the shell will chamber. I really don't want to bevel it any more because I have seen guys that have beveled them to much have to go to more expensive shells because the bevel makes the base bulge out enough that the extrator wont stay on it. I may just go back to the stock lifter. I really didn't have much problem getting my thumb bit, I weak hand load 2 off of a cameleon belt and I used to just make sure I kept my thumb straight pushing in the shells. I do load faster now with the welded lifter, but I think some of it is a mental block from focusing to much on keeping my thumb straight rather than just stuffing shells in as fast as possible I ran all of Ironman last year with the stock lifter and never got bit. Edited September 3, 2015 by dkynoch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamge Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 I've found that beveling the extractor cut didn't really help with my ammo. I was still getting lots of hangups. What did the trick was beveling all the other edges and corners that are a little farther back from the chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Don't be scared to hone the forcing cone after getting it cleaned real well. It really helps and I have started to just do it on all VMs while fixing them up. Are you using the scotchbrite method? Was considering doing this but wasn't sure if it would mess up the gas ports. No, I use the Flex-hone. I actually have three grits and their oil and I get after it pretty good. Any gunsmith who specializes in shotguns should be able to do it for you. Mark, my VM has a rough forcing cone, it leads up like crazy. Can I ask, do you think its needed to use all three grits of the flex hone? For someone that is buying the tools to just do this once could he get away with just the 800? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Yes you can, but plan on it taking at least 3 times longer, and possibly not getting it all cleaned up before wearing out an 800 grit hone. Yeah, I know I'm not Mark, but I have done stuff like this a time or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
striped1 Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Yes you can, but plan on it taking at least 3 times longer, and possibly not getting it all cleaned up before wearing out an 800 grit hone. Yeah, I know I'm not Mark, but I have done stuff like this a time or two. Mark's a smart dude. Kurt M is Yoda when it comes to a shotgun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Yes you can, but plan on it taking at least 3 times longer, and possibly not getting it all cleaned up before wearing out an 800 grit hone. Yeah, I know I'm not Mark, but I have done stuff like this a time or two. I appreciate your input very much, what is the right way to do this then? All three grits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GetAwayDriva Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) I used 2 grits then some polishing compound on a felt wheel. I was pretty happy with the results. It took a while but cleaned things up. (I am not Mark or or Kurt or yoda, and I have only done this once but thought I would share my experience anyways....) Edited February 13, 2016 by GetAwayDriva Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Best way is to run a back boring reamer in it, and just recut the forcing cone. Next is get a hone with different stone attachments, AKA a brake cylinder hone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Best way is to run a back boring reamer in it, and just recut the forcing cone. Next is get a hone with different stone attachments, AKA a brake cylinder hone. That's interesting, the brake cylinder hone was the first thing that came to mind when I thought about this but wasn't sure if it would work. Might try this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Thanks Kurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gunnuts Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 On 9/7/2014 at 9:01 AM, AirForce2 said: I ordered the amazon one listed in the above post from M8Stealth. Here is the brush research site address: http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c2=6 Again, if you have multiple shotguns you might do over time or more than one shotgun, I highly suggest getting a 400 grit to start (monitor closer so as not to removed to much, maybe to where you still see a little of the lines/roughness) and swithc to the 800 grit to finish or you might use up most the 800 grit hone on one barrel, depending on how bad the lines are. Also didn't think about it, but I assume some knife sharpening hone oil would likely work found locally. Before you hone, "MAKE SURE TO REMOVE ALL LEADING 1st". There is no solvent that I'm aware of that can remove caked on lead quickly, so use a screen/brush copper brillo pad that is softer than the steel barrel first. Some copper brillo type pads may only be copper coated and steel underneath, so be aware of that, I suppose doing it once may not be to harmful, but many attempt could scar up the finish. Make sure you oil coat the barrel sections that were honed after so as not to rust & once barrel is seasoned, just light oil. I also had less but still a lot of lead in the X2, LM, ext choke, so that may need some cleaning of lead and maybe the fine hone may help the leading in the choke and requires closer inpsection and care before honing your choke (I suggest removing the choke to hone it. Pls post if you see any neg/pos results/thoughts on honing the force cone & choke areas. tks In case it has not been mentioned Birchwood Casey makes a lead removal cloth that works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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