Baer45 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 I have shot STARLINE for years and they would have to be my first choice.....that said I load them all for practice. With a 1050 you will find the primer swage a big help with NATO/military brass you might pick up or buy from a range. also you will never have too tight primer pockets on a 1050, although I have not seen that as a problem very often. I don't load "hot" ammo as a rule so my brass usually last until I loose it. My STARLINE definitely looks the best after many reloads when comparing to other brands....good question... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred fague Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Buy a strong magnet and check for brass coated steel cases. Most are S&B, they look like real brass but are steel. S&B makes brass and brass coated steel. The steel cases are harder to seat the primers. AMMOLOAD cases have a smaller case volume. Look inside and you will see a rim about 1/4 of the way up, which reduces the case volume. When loaded to major the primers show excessive pressure. They are OK to load to minor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrayfk05 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 (edited) I don't want to start a new thread but just curious. S&B brass is harder to prime than other brass (not just in 9mm) which headstamp are you referring to? I am guessing you are mostly seeing the left one? Edited June 18, 2014 by xrayfk05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPatton Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 The best 9MM brass I have found is FREE.....and I load it all if it has a Boxer primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L3324temp Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 I don't want to start a new thread but just curious. S&B brass is harder to prime than other brass (not just in 9mm) which headstamp are you referring to? I am guessing you are mostly seeing the left one? Yes the one on the left. You can see the primer pocket has no taper to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safeactionjackson Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 No preference, I sort them by head stamp into batches of 2K.... run them 9 or 10 times, than start another batch. I've used most head stamps with little to no difference in performance and or results. I'd agree, the best is what ever you can get for free/cheap. ~g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 I shoot open and load any and all 9 mm brass and don't have any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootertheshooter Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Shoot just S&B and give the rest to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellymc Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 My 550 will not push ppu primers all the way out of the fired case and locks up my reloader [?] Everything else works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPatton Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Once in a while I'll get a primer stuck on the decapping pin and it will pull it back up into the primer pocket and leave it there. Not a big problem other than slowing down the process with a 550. On a 650 it will reseat the old primer and you may not catch it. That's one reason I put all match ammo in 100 round boxes after chamber dropping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellymc Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Maybe that is what is happening with my 550 and ppu cases Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchet Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 There are different kinds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tac_driver Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 starline if you have the cash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stick Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Up until last year, I would sort my brass by head stamp and I would only load winchester, Federal, Remington and starline. 9mm is a straight walled case. Now I just pick it up, clean it, inspect it, lube it and toss it into my XL650 case feeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Not that it's a big deal, but, 9mms are a tapered case. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=1tNidUBd6qgfUM&tbnid=fk6blROWBozxwM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Frelaodthis.blogspot.com%2F2013%2F04%2Finsights-to-reloading-9mm-luger.html&ei=c-a3U8CHKsOFqgbv6YGoCg&bvm=bv.70138588,d.b2k&psig=AFQjCNHhc57PlADBqJrbCO_jsdRGmYziNw&ust=1404647408740553 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgardner Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 The Ammoload brass with the funky step in it loads okay but the primers are most generally flowed after shooting so I believe it gives higher pressures so I would never use it for hotter loads. Besides that I like anything I find on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZinSC Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Once in a while I'll get a primer stuck on the decapping pin and it will pull it back up into the primer pocket and leave it there. Not a big problem other than slowing down the process with a 550. On a 650 it will reseat the old primer and you may not catch it. That's one reason I put all match ammo in 100 round boxes after chamber dropping. Have you tapered your decapping pin? I used to have this problem until I did, now, nothing. Just take a flat file and put a taper on the end of the decapping pin so its tapered. They will be less likely to pull the spent primer back into the pocket this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tac_driver Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Starline, Remington, Federal, Winchester in that order stay away from amerc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPatton Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Once in a while I'll get a primer stuck on the decapping pin and it will pull it back up into the primer pocket and leave it there. Not a big problem other than slowing down the process with a 550. On a 650 it will reseat the old primer and you may not catch it. That's one reason I put all match ammo in 100 round boxes after chamber dropping. Have you tapered your decapping pin? I used to have this problem until I did, now, nothing. Just take a flat file and put a taper on the end of the decapping pin so its tapered. They will be less likely to pull the spent primer back into the pocket this way. I have modified the tip of the pin several times and now it only happens occasionally. Usually occurs when a primer has a heavy crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phidelt208 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I'm a huge fan of Fed/Blazer brass. When I first started loading on a lee press I couldn't get the case wall flat all the way around with any brass but Blazer ( I have no idea why) But the fact remained that Blazer brass would keep the wall flat. Not like the pic below with other brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L3324temp Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) I would try a different sizing/decapping die. 9mm is my most loaded caliber and I have never had this happen. I use a Lee sizing die. Once in a while I'll get a primer stuck on the decapping pin and it will pull it back up into the primer pocket and leave it there. Not a big problem other than slowing down the process with a 550. On a 650 it will reseat the old primer and you may not catch it. That's one reason I put all match ammo in 100 round boxes after chamber dropping. Edited July 9, 2014 by L3324temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 The Ammoload brass is about the only brass I will chuck. Even my 1050 cant open up the primer pocket on it and subsequently I have had a few primers go boom in it. Besides that I dont descriminate, whatever comes in in the 5 gallon buckets I order. I got a killer deal last year on 100% NATO head stamp brass, I think it was all WCC. That stuff was AWESOME and loaded smooth as butter. Lots of guys dont want it due to the crimp, but I dont care since I have a 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPatton Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I'm a huge fan of Fed/Blazer brass. When I first started loading on a lee press I couldn't get the case wall flat all the way around with any brass but Blazer ( I have no idea why) But the fact remained that Blazer brass would keep the wall flat. Not like the pic below with other brands. When your bullets look like this you can rest assured that you will never have a problem with the bullet collapsing back into the case. Mine look like this and it works for me with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truborshooter Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 handloaded ammo often shows 'hourglassing' since the die mfgers want their dies to work with all brass thicknesses they set them to oversize the cases inserting a bullet stretches the case back open some brass in thinner, so less crunching, some brass in more springier and bounces back more If you set up your sizing die to go only the depth of the seated bullet the case may not show the hourglassing but since only the case mouth and case rim are used in headspacing the round in the chamber, no foul, no problem upon firing the case will expand to the volumne of the chamber and spring back a little when the pressure drops so you can crunch is down again in your sizing die Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Check your S&B brass with a magnet as a lot of it is steel case with brass plating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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