XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 So since I've gotten my 650 press and mounted I've noticed an unbelievable flex in the bench. My 550 wasn't a problem but I thought I had supported it pretty well. I have 2x4 framed cross section every 2'. Work bench top is furniture grade oak 3/4". I tried to add additional 4x4 braces where press is but still flexes. I'm thinking the only next option is steel 1/4" plate and frame. Any ideas without breaking the bank. I just don't want to have even more issues if I end up getting a 1050 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssanders224 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Post a picture of your bench, and I could be of more help. However, it sounds like the fix might be in the top. Double up the 3/4 top, or replace with something more solid. My loading bench top is two layers of 3/4" MDF, glued and screwed together, finished in Formica. Flat faced solid core doors also make great bench tops. Zero flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I did the whole top with 2x4s laying edge to edge, then topped with 3/4" ply I would think 3/4" anything by itself is not enough if you could get 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf (or ply) under there.. I think you'd fix it. That same thickness can in 2x4s would do it too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) Guess I'll get another 3/4 piece and lay on top of entire bench and screw together Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Edited May 30, 2014 by XxWoodsHunterxX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssanders224 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Guess I'll get another 3/4 piece and lay on top of entire bench and screw together Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Use construction adhesive between the two as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 This one is solid even with the 650 in the middle. I have also seen a press support that has a leg that drops to the floor out in front of the press for benches that flex too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverBolt Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 My is 2x2x.187 steel frame with a 1/2" plate steel top. No flex. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 [thinking out loud mode] I wonder if I could get a small-ish reloading bench, ready-to-assemble, to fit into two large flat rate boxes meant for board games. One box would contain the top, which when put together would get you just about a 2 foot by 2 foot surface area. The other box would contain the legs, which would be telestrut (just take a closer look at street signs next time) and the steel "aprons" to tie everything together. This is what telestrut looks like: The advantage being that the bench would be height adjustable....since the pieces of telestrut are meant to telescope one inside the other and the holes all line up. Put leveler feet on the bottom. Maybe an angle iron stretcher or 4, so a plywood shelf could be put across them to hold heavy stuff like bullets to weigh the bench down. [/thinking out loud mode] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 when I built my wooden 2X4 reloading bench about 19 years ago at the base's woodshop, I mortised and tenoned everything. I took a router with a 1/2" round nose bit and plowed a "gutter" all the way around the top about an inch in from the edge. That way brass and bullets just don't go rolling off the top and falling to the floor. They get caught by the gutter first. getting back on topic.... me? personally? I don't like a material like MDF or particle board for a top which will be under stress or weight. Those kinds of man made materials have this tendency to creep or sag under the load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmac Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 (edited) I pushed mine against a wall, and attached it to the wall with lag bolts. The wall being on the opposite side of the table of the press, so the flexing/lifting caused by the force on the press handle goes into the wall instead of lifting the table up and down. Even a stiff table will move up and down, (not technically flexing) if it is not somehow anchored to something. Made a huge difference in reliability and quality...no more flipped primers every hundred rounds or so on my 650. There's 2x4 framing under the table & press, where I've anchored the press. Edited May 31, 2014 by johnmac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 I don't like a material like MDF or particle board for a top which will be under stress or weight. Those kinds of man made materials have this tendency to creep or sag under the load. I agree. This one looked like an old horse when I finally threw it away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 I was thinking of making one out of steel when I move. All the houses we've been looking at have nice shops so it'll be anchored to foundation. I've supported it in every way possible but I think you guys are right even oak furniture laminate is not a good surface. I thought about going solid oak but it was double the price. Guess I should of oped in for it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Mine is bolted to the wall on three sides. 2X4 framing with two sheets of 3/4" ply topped off with a kitchen counter top. A 4x4 leg is right underneath the press. And believe it or not it still moves a tiny bit when I run the press. There is a lot of leverage in a press handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
practical_man Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Like others mine is 2x4 frame with two sheets of laminated 3/4" exterior plywood as a top. No flex at all. It is 24 x 36 inch work surface so that helps keep things rigid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Buy/make an auto-drive and you can run it on a card table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12glocks Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I have a shelf about 20 inches off the ground the full length of my bench. It tightens up the bottom of the "cube." I presently have about twenty 25# bags of lead shot on the bottom shelf and that does not hurt either. I also do cross members glued and screwed below every metallic press. I use a lot of glue to tighten up the rigidity of the bench, screws and bolts allow movement. I anchor to the studs in the adjacent wall wherever possible with 3.5 inch screws. I had a hard time seeing your bench. The picture was oversized for me. I have used once and still have it installed on one of my presses a mounting plate like this to increase rigidity: http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/AccessoryBasePlateInstructions.pdf You would not necessarily need that plate, but some scrap steel or aluminum integrated into the setup will increase rigidity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okiestovepipe Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) Try a Dillion Strong mount(Stock#22052). It should spread out the load and raise the height of the loader. link: http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23993/catid/3/Dillon_Strong_Mounts_XL650_only Edited June 2, 2014 by okiestovepipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 Try a Dillion Strong mount(Stock#22052). It should spread out the load and raise the height of the loader. link: http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23993/catid/3/Dillon_Strong_Mounts_XL650_only Bench is already too high I thought about it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdinga Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 I bolt my benches to the studs, this seems to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 It is bolted to studs. Main issue is it top of bench. Going to have to thicken it with another 3/4" piece. Since 12" joists aren't working to stiffen it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDlineman Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Just out of curiosity, how tall is your bench? Mine is 42" and I use a strong mount. I have a tall stool I can sit on, but I like standing when I reload. I am not unusually tall,6-1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Get one of these, works like a champ and probably doesn't cost any more than the wood material to build one as sturdy. http://www.samsclub.com/sams/ultra-heavy-duty-workbench/prod1490086.ip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 Just out of curiosity, how tall is your bench? Mine is 42" and I use a strong mount. I have a tall stool I can sit on, but I like standing when I reload. I am not unusually tall,6-1. I think mine is like 48" about mid chest level and I'm only 5'8". Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Whether sitting or standing, the best ergonomics for you should put the tabletop about 2-3" lower than your elbow when bent at 90 degress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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