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auto drive 1050, experiences wanted

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Hi, looking at a 1050 for 9mm and 223

The question is then, is automateing it with a auto drive motor actually a good solution, does it produce consistent, good ammo? or is it just a toy/gimmick?

I do like toys though.

Most of the time I size & deprime, before I tumble again, so when I load, I dont have a sizeing die present, I also lube even pistol brass, since Im washing anyway and its so much smoother, even in carbide dies. If Im really in a rush, or have had a batch where I know primer pockets are not dirty etch, Ill put a die in #1, so ideally motor/clutch has to handle this as well.

How does autodrive work with say a trimmer (1200) in a station after size & deprime with 223 brass ?

.

Also what happens when say a berdan primed brass comes into contact with the decapper with an autodrive system? with lee dies does it push up like it would by hand? or does clutch slip? what about dillon dies? seems that 1 out of every say 500 passes through my visual inspection, but on my 650 I can feel it easy enough.

What would the prefferd bulletfeeder be for my caliber choices? in addition to handle 9/223 I might load some 10mm auto and .40S&W with it as well, either on another 1050 or 650, if it could be switched around it would be great. Ive looked into this before, is there still no possibility for a powder check, unless you wanna crimp/seat in 1 operation?

I just sat down and size & deprimed 5000 pieces of brass on one of my 650s.. that was fun... my arm hurts!

Edited by ano

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forcht rotary is the best auto mated converstion i have used,can not be run fast,remember dillons are meant for hand operation only .if you run them too fast the powder drop does not keep up because it fills by gravity this is where your inconsistincies will come from but your aol will be perfect and crimp cosistent.

and you will need mr bullet for colation. I am not sure if you want to change calibers on an automated 1050 they can be fussy on set up you may waste alot

of your time going back an forth and you will lose your consistency,might be better to load one caliber i load 9mm on mine and i dont change it ,keeps my

power factor perfect for idpa matches cant help with 223,this is just my opinion after owning it for 2 years,good luck you will need it,when it screws up it will

ruin many components if not blow up your fleet of primers,thats always exciteing.

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I have and both lever and rotary style 1050 conversions here.

The rotary conversion requires machine modification and would take a lot of work to return to manual operation. It also reduces the stroke of the super to something closer to RL lengths so .223 is the longest case you can load if you go rotary.

The PW can take a while to get setup just right (not as long as doing the machine work for the rotary conversion though.

There are videos of both styles in this thread. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=179029&hl=+rotary%20+pw

I have ran the rotary as fast as 4500 RPH processing brass, about the limit of the case feed system. Loading I generally run closer to 5 min a hundred as that's about all I can casegauge and box in that amount of time.

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I tried to run a PW auto drive on one of my 1050s and finally threw in the towel. I worked ok but I never trusted it 100%.

If you are going to go down that road, get the Forcht. Cry once.

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How does auto drive work with say a trimmer (1200) in a station after size & deprime with 223 brass ?

Works great and long as you have it setup correctly. Sizing die first and then the trimmer length and don't forget to lube those cases.

Setting up the auto drive is pretty tricky in itself.

Also what happens when say a berdan primed brass comes into contact with the decapper with an autodrive system?

with lee dies does it push up like it would by hand? or does clutch slip? what about dillon dies?

With a Dillon decapper, it will make a hole in the case and pop out the berdan primer.

With the Lee decapper, the decapping pin should slide up. If you don't catch it you'll end up with a lot of smashed spent primers in the cases from the swager. YMMV, the auto drive clutch needs to be set up just enough pressure to size the case. Start off at a lighter clutch setting and tighten up the clutch bolts if the clutch keeps slipping. If its set up correctly the clutch will slip if there is a complete stoppage.

What would the preferred bullet feeder be for my caliber choices?

I'm cheap so I'm using a Mr Bullet Feeder powder funnel and bullet seater with a Hornady bullet collator(really noisy).

I just sat down and size & deprimed 5000 pieces of brass on one of my 650s.. that was fun... my arm hurts!

Been there and done that, I only use mine to deprime/swage or size/swage. Even at 900rph it takes a long time, but my arm/neck and shoulder are never sore like before.

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I have a Super 1050 and a PW Auto drive. My drive is the 900 rounds and hour speed. Some want much faster but this rate just plain works. Some have said the can manually pull the handle and load 900 per hour. I am sure you can, and good for you. I bought mine to make this process easier and less tiring. I am in my 60 and anything that makes the job easier is good. I have loaded over 6,000 round so far and never a problem. I use Redding dies and also have no problems. It honestly took me 30 min to set up my drive to my loader. Guys who have had problems seem to all have pretty new not not broke in machines. When mine was new I had my share.

If you keep it clean, pay attention you will be happy. JMHO

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Big +1 on the Forcht rotary conversion. I load multiple calibers on a single 1050, but a lot of volume between switch-overs so my 1050 is ready for a good cleaning and lube. The Forcht has greatly reduced the drudgery of reloading in volume.

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Thanks guys, feedback from people actually useing it or experience with it is very valued, it is a lot of money, with component costing actually more than factory ammo around theese parts, but I recently had a competition with failure to eject or feed on every single stage. that gets to you. huge bad lot of geco..

I think I'll have a talk with mr Forcht, sending a press to him would be a huge PITA, so either buying a new one with dropship to him, or just haveing the parts and doing it myself would be optimalt.

If I can rebuild engines, and do machining work, it should be within reach to do the conversion myself imho?

I havent decided on what to do, with regards to caliber, seems the shellplate etc isnt as easy to change out, as 650, but even on 650 Im so lazy that I have one for each caliber, but with a 1050 + autodrive that will be serious $$.

Also just haveing a 650 + auto drive for size & decap might we worth it... at least I know its a viable option with auto-drives, I have tons of brass, so could probably load 20-30k of 9mm rounds between a switchover.

Edited by ano

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I met a fellow who had 6 1050s all on autodrives. Told me the problem was people werent setting them up properly and that one machine he had was up to 250k rounds thru it without a problem. He was using the PW.

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If you do the Forcht you HAVE to send the press to him. You cant do it yourself. I am 100% sure he wouldnt sell you the parts.

I personally would only load on an auto drive if I had done brass prep separately. Loading 9mm on my manual 1050 goes great once you get through all the garbage range brass that I seem to put through mine. When I load 300BLK and .223(which all the brass has been prepped on the auto 1050) it loads smooth as butter and I would 100% trust it to load on the auto. But with mixed 9mm range brass, no way.

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If you do the Forcht you HAVE to send the press to him. You cant do it yourself. I am 100% sure he wouldnt sell you the parts.

False.

Click on the link in the post right above yours, it shows the parts for a few of them Craig sold us so we could convert them ourselves. 3 ph motors were used along with VFD's so speed can be adjusted with the twist of a knob.

Edited by jmorris

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If you do the Forcht you HAVE to send the press to him. You cant do it yourself. I am 100% sure he wouldnt sell you the parts.

False.

Click on the link in the post right above yours, it shows the parts for a few of them Craig sold us so we could convert them ourselves. 3 ph motors were used along with VFD's so speed can be adjusted with the twist of a knob.

Maybe for a few he would, but I just cant see him wanting to sell parts to a guy who is going to machine the frame and the main shaft himself, possibly screw it up and then bitch about it everywhere when he screws something up and is out a ton of money(due to his frame or main shaft becoming junk) and blames Craig or his parts. I know I wouldnt sell anything by itself to guys for them to machine.

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You are not machining anything but the Dillon casting all of Craig's stuff is ready to go.

Actually you could use a die grinder and hacksaw if you wanted to. All you are doing is removing enough material for his conversion to clear.

Guess you would want some better equipment to make the motor/press mount but that is another story and he sent prints of that part too.

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Just a question for those with auto drives, do you need to readjust you dies when changing toolheads? Example like from 9mm to 223 or from 223 to a 223 prepping toolhead? Thanks and sorry to hi jack.

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The main shaft of the 1050 is shouldered so the tool head returns to the same location everytime, the dies will too if locked down.

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The main shaft of the 1050 is shouldered so the tool head returns to the same location everytime, the dies will too if locked down.

Thanks jmorris, i cant remember who said that. But it almost put me off of one. Im barely setting up my 1050 and will load a few thousand rounds thru it before i end up buying a PW.

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Well, I put the order inn for 3x 1050, 1x 650 and 3-4 weeks ;)

holding off on the autodrives for now, we will see how long it lasts ;)

Havent decided on bulletfeeder yet, seems like the GSI allows to still have the powder check, as it feeds/seats, in one operation, but mr bulletfeeder seems like way easier to swap around.

has anyone mounted the 1050's so close they can share case feeders/hoppers? or experience with shareing them? on my 650's its quite easy, but my 1050 experience is limited. opting not to have 3x feeders, but say 1 or 2 is $$ saved.

Edited by ano

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If you already put the order for 3 1050's in they will come with 3 case feeders, they are included in the base package.

The 650 won't have one on it, unless you added it when you placed the order. Just slide one off one of the 1050's and onto the 650, all of them are made to slide on the round or square post.

If you have ever loaded on one, you don't need an autodrive yet anyhow.

Edited by jmorris

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If you already put the order for 3 1050's in they will come with 3 case feeders, they are included in the base package.

The 650 won't have one on it, unless you added it when you placed the order. Just slide one off one of the 1050's and onto the 650, all of them are made to slide on the round or square post.

If you have ever loaded on one, you don't need an autodrive yet anyhow.

My dealer lets me remove them if I want, and he just sells them, so I can still choose, the 650 I orderd without since I allready have two 650's. they currently share a loader, they are mounted at a distance so that I can just swing the loader around, and it feeds the other one, was wondering if that was possible, or a good solution for 1050's. But seems they are mounted on square post, unlike 650s round?

Edit, looked at more pics, will just keep a dedicated hopper for the 1050s, and share on the 650s

In regards to bulletfeeders, mr bulletfeeder hangs on the side of the hopper, while GSI is standalone, on a mounted pole so if I want to move the feeder around, I might be better off with mr bulletfeeder? I look at the cal changeovers, and if Im able to share it, maybe even with the 650s for loading up say runs of 2-3k rounds it would be great,

ref video

it seems to be able to handle .357 lswc, so can I just buy another dropper for 9/38 and swap the mr bulletfeeder in 9/38 over from the 1050 to the 650 setup for 38special/357?

I know gsi lists them as separate

Edited by ano

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The ONLY downside to the Forcht, as I just got one, is the single phase motor. I hate changing sprockets for different drive ratios. It's a pain in the arse. I've got a 3-phase motor and VFD on the way now. When it gets here, I'll setup the sprockets for the max rate I want to process, then use the VFD to turn down the ratio to the speed I want. This would be especially useful for case trimming. Why Craig doesn't offer this is beyond me.

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Which 3-Phase did you go with and how did it work out for you? Where do you find sprockets for the Forcht?

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I was at the ISPC world shoot and there was a auto drive set up on a 1050. It was from a company called mark 7 reloading. It was belt driven and had a electronic control panel.

The speed could be controlled and at any speed it would slow up at the bottom and top of every stroke to help stop powder spillage. It was also wired to the primer sensor so at 10 left it

would sound a alarm and stop when the sensor alarm went off. They are new and where taking orders to be delivered in March. Look very very nice. No modifications to the press.

The web sight is new but it is markvii-loading.com

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