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My new safe!


rtr

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I just got a new safe today, it's a Browning, first safe I've ever owned. Right now my long guns are all in cases with locked actions and all but one of my handguns are stuffed into a gunvault. Now I finally have some room to store my guns, unfortunately I won't be buying more soon as the safe came attached to my new house! (Wrote it into the offer).

I'll also be able to have a larger reloading/gun area now. I hope all my housework doesn't keep me from shooting:)

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I just got a new safe today, it's a Browning, first safe I've ever owned. Right now my long guns are all in cases with locked actions and all but one of my handguns are stuffed into a gunvault. Now I finally have some room to store my guns, unfortunately I won't be buying more soon as the safe came attached to my new house! (Wrote it into the offer).

I'll also be able to have a larger reloading/gun area now. I hope all my housework doesn't keep me from shooting:)

You might want to invest in a combination change key if you don't already have one/

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You might want to invest in a combination change key if you don't already have one

What is a combination change key? The safe has a key slot in the combo lock, not really sure what its for.

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It lets you change the combination to [something the previous owner doesn't know].

If your safe is like mine, the key slot works both for that, and it also allows you to lock the dial so it can't be spun.

bg

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Pictures :D

It reminds me of a (for me) amusing story, when I lived in colorado i helped move one of those beautiful old western style safes, a heavy bastard so we used planks to roll it into place, we lost control and it went of the planks and the wheels went through the floor, Luckily it was almost in place and was left standing where it stod. I just heard that last year when they moved again the roof was lifted off the house to get the safe out. I soo want that safe...

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It lets you change the combination to [something the previous owner doesn't know].

If your safe is like mine, the key slot works both for that, and it also allows you to lock the dial so it can't be spun.

bg

There are two other uses for the dial key:

- Lock the safe combination in the open position

- Leave the safe combination unlocked, but the bolt engaged and locked by the dial lock - sometimes referred to as "day locking" to prevent casual entry and allow quick opening with the key. This is NOT secure as the dial lock is easily picked, and is generally not uniquely keyed. If you find someone else with a Browning safe, chances are pretty good their dial key will fit yours.

I've always been amused that safe manufacturers make "spy proof" dials (designed so that someone can not watch you dial the combination) and then ruin the concept by adding a lock which gives an observer a visual indication of dial position.

You will see a secondary dial index at about 10:00 on the dial. To change the combination, you dial the combination using this notch. If you have done that correctly, the combination change key can be inserted in the hole in the back of the lock and turned 90 degrees. You then dial the new combination using the secondary index, remove the change key, and you have a new combination. It the key does not go in easily, you have misdialed and the holes in the wheel pack are not lined up. Write it down, check it at least 6 times, and have the spouse verify the combo works as well before closing that baby. Also, there is a "forbidden zone" for third digit which is generally 0-20 (depends on lock model), and the final digit must not be in this range. this is to allow enough addional travel of the dial for the cam to engage to retract the bolt. The term "tool" would be more appropriate than "key" since they combo change kery are specific to the lock model or series, not the individual lock.

There will generally be an access mechanism to get to this change hole - either the interior of the safe door can be removed exposing the lock, or there will be a plug in a small hole over the lock which can be removed to gain access. If you have any doubts, or the lock doesn't "feel right", pay for a pro to come out and service the lock, replace if necessary and reset the combination for you. Do not take the lock case apart, and if you do NEVER insert the combination change key when the back is off the lock.

It's fairly easy to retrofit an electronic lock to this safe, but I've never really trusted them not to lock me out.

I think the Brownings use a S&G Group II lock which is fairly decent - although in safe parlance "fairly decent" means "resistant to 15 minutes of expert manipulation". The II-M is rated at 2 hours, and the I is considered manipulation proof. I wouldn't bother with a swap out (the I would require new holes and a different dial) since the real threat is someone entering through the side door to the safe. If you have any cutting torches, metal cutting saws or angle grinders store the blades inside the safe. This safe has a UL "residental security container rating" which means it comes in way below a TL-15 "real safe" ... and "TL-15" i s only rated for 15 minutes resistance against tool attach using tools which can be carried by one person. It's still way way better than the common "gun cabinets" many use.

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Fingerprint ID's? 

Man...where is my cigar cutter?  :ph34r:

What's next for the tool kit? A melon ball spoon --- to help you with anything that requires a retinal scan? :ph34r::ph34r:

Not a bad idea. That would probably do less damage to the pupil than the cork-screw on my swiss army knife.

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