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These will come from CGW:

"replace spring #31 with a CGW reduced power trigger return spring,#39 with a CZ sear spring, #13 with a 10-11# recoil spring, spring #34 with a CGW reduced power firing pin return spring for CZ"

The short hammer springs will come from Wolff and the reduced power firing pin return spring from France is probably not worth the shipping if you have nothing else to buy, besides, you may not need it if you're not getting light strikes.

Thanks I tore it all down, polished the trigger bar, plunger, firing pin. Pull weights didn't change a bit. I ordered from Henning extended firing pin, hammer spring , plunger spring, cone fit guide rod and recoil spring. Going to experiment with cutting down the wolf extra power firing pin springs that come with the recoil.

Waiting on doing a cgw order. Have a sp01 coming that I'm not sure what I'm changing yet.

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I cut two coils off my wolf fps and 2 off the wolf hammer spring and it pops of federals just fine. I'm not sure if anything was gained though because I just did it while I was doing the polish job. I'm tempted to cut another coil or two off once I get a backup spring.

Edited by vixty
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If anyone needs a sear lifter spring send me a pm. I bought a few when I ordered some things from cgw. When I took apart the sear cage I realized that shadows don't have that spring.

If someone needs one ill send you one for free

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Please describe the fitting process of the CGW Type 3

The area behind the wedge must be filed down:


This is sort of a double post, which is bad, but I think now I'm posting in the right thread which is good.

As had been noted elsewhere, this is a great thread and the proprietor deserves medals and dancing girls. And sear cages are from hell. And working on these guns can be fun and rewarding.

Fiddled with an SP01, pretty much followed exactly what was done on page 1. Worked great, after I finally looked close enough to better understand the sear cage going back together part, will not touch the sear cage innards again unless I feel like I have to though.

Put a CGW drop in disco in a CTS-LS SA/DA for my next trick. Gun works great in single action, double action will not catch with the gun assembled. Remove the slide & da works fine. Put the slide back on without the slide lock installed and hold it about 1/32" forward of its normal rest position and everything works fine.

I'm pretty sure my disco is now fubar as I attempted to address the problem by beveling the lower forward edge of the wing after making sure that the trigger bar spring tension was good and that the springs were riding in the grooves correctly. Now the slide will release the hammer very prematurely under all conditions and the original issue is unaffected.

I am too stubborn to quit easily so I'm thinking I'll buy another disco and go at it again. Is the area marked on the photo the right place to remove metal ?

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"beveling the lower forward edge of the wing"

Maybe we're using different vocabulary, but I've only ever taken a file to the wings/hooks once and that disco became trash in short order. The picture above has a red line on the back of the wedge, which is the place I file the disco to fit it.

There are no DA hooks on the hammer (the second set of hooks are the half-cock hooks), the 'hooks' for DA are on the disco and the trigger bar. I made this diagram back when everyone started talking about SRTS; they're pretty intuitive, so everyone seems to be using similar terms:


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Yes, for future reference, don't mess with the hooks :cheers:

only a rare instance you will need to do some work there. for the most part it changes the timing of the DA stroke. more you do, the earlier the release and the more it feels like crap.

if you want to change the position of the trigger in DA ( shorten the reach) you will need to alter the timing here and find a way to hold the trigger in the new position. essentially a pretravel screw or similar in a DA trigger.

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Have you ran across an alternative to the extended safety that CZC offers for the TS? I haven't seen it in stock in months and I can barely reach the safety.

Unfortunately no

alternative at this point is find someone that is good at welding and and have them weld a wider ledge on the factory one. but unfortunately not another ready made part out there. I dont think the tanfoglio wide safeties will fit up.


Edited by eerw
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Saw this on calguns while snooping about for a bit. Have a new disco in hand but have not touched anything, the first one will be regarded as a souvenir. Bought the cz custom drop in short reset version this time as I'm assuming dimensions are not exactly the same as the cgw 'drop in' and figured I might get lucky.

Anyway. Problem with my gun is that it will not reset in double action (unless you remove the slide lock and allow the slide to move forward about 1/32" from normal rest position).

Talked to CGW Friday. If I understood correctly (any errors below are entirely my fault and no other parties):

a. It is Abbie Normal to have a problem with double action reset. CGW said my gun was like the second one this year.

b. The fix for my gun is most likely to very carefully remove material from the wing as shown above. Probably will need something like a diamond sharpening stone, need to go slow and be very careful to retain the original angles.

c. A way to see if I am on the right track is to pull the hammer back slightly. If the problem is as I'm thinking, the double action should reset when the hammer is pulled back slightly.

For what it is worth.

Will probably spend a long time looking and thinking before grinding this time. Web search thrice cut once :) .

Anyway, any thoughts are always appreciated.

Edited by IHAVEGAS
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Godspeed brother!

Hmmm, I wonder if that means the same thing as uh oh.

Modified post so the image showed up.

Have an SP01 also. The disco that I messed up was originally in the SP01 and everything worked well. Hmmm, swap trigger bar between the the two guns & just see what happens ?

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So I'm trying to move the rear sight on my ts because it shoots left but the thing wondering move. I've tried heat and oil but the thing won't budge. Any ideas? I'm using a sight pusher but I'm afraid if I put to much force something will brake.

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The set screw came out very easy. The slide is brand new so I wouldn't think it would be to siezed. I just don't want to mess the slide up I guess

Was having trouble removing a front so I called one of the sight manufacturers and they told me that at around 160 f loctite will go back to a liquid state. Do not know how far you went with the heat, but for what it is worth. I finally got that one to move but I don't know if it was the heat that made the difference.

Took a S&W with a stubborn rear sight to a local gunsmith for my Father, after giving up myself. He started with the small hammer, then progressed to the mid sized hammer and then we agreed to give up after a couple unsuccessful raps with the big hammer, S&W fixed that one for us.

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