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Slavex, I think you might have your terminology mixed up, the Shadow pistols don't have firing pin blocks.

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Whoops, totally added Shadow to the original post's SP01 info in my head. You are correct of course, Shadows don't have firing pin blocks. My description of how to remove the firing pin is correct at least, lol.

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This makes me want to buy another CZ just for the sake of doing what has been posted. I think ill go regular CZ SP01 for my next project.

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Awesome post John. You forgot to include instructions for finding the FPL spring after it flies across the room.

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My cat finds anything that flies off the table. Get a cat.

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Kneelingatlas, and to the rest who contributed to this thread, thanks so much for this great thread. I shall definitely go back to this thread as a future resource!

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When the pistol cycles, the leading edge of the slide must fight both the hammer spring and the recoil spring at the same time; to round this edge is the reduce the initial force required at the beginning of the slide stroke, reducing muzzle flip.

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Atlas,

Do yo think this part is necessary? I figure that the FP stop plate goes behind this edge and is rounded, so this work to the middle rail seems moot. Am I missing something?

Cheers

Nick

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Atlas,

Do yo think this part is necessary? I figure that the FP stop plate goes behind this edge and is rounded, so this work to the middle rail seems moot. Am I missing something?

Cheers

Nick

First off Nick, nothing here is "necessary", CZs are great shooters right out of the box; that being said this is an SP01, not a Shadow so there is no is no stop plate. The firing pin block equipped pistols use a roll pin to retain the firing pin.

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Feralshooter, you have Shadow correct? The SP01 used in this post is the version with a firing pin block, as such, it doesn't have that rear plate to hold the firing pin in, it uses a roll pin instead.

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Well you learn something new every day!

Sorry if I sounded like I was being critical John, I thought I must be not understanding something properly. I knew there was a roll pin retaining the FP on the non-shadows, just wasn't aware of the absence of a stop plate. Makes sense though.

Thank you both for enlightening me.

Slavex, you are correct. Both of my CZs are Shadows. They are really the only CZs you see in my part if the world.

Edited by Feralshooter

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What a great post!

I have a standard SP-01 that I am turning into a backup for my AA SP-01 Shadow. This thread includes many of the items I plan to do... Plus a whole lot more... Great resource... Thanks!

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IMG_20140123_225151_514_zps2b6246b7.jpg

The trigger return spring will go flying when you pull the punch out, so cover the top of the frame with your hand as you pull it out.

Or just set the gun upside down on your bench. That works out pretty well too.

As far as punching out pins goes, I found it worked pretty well to just drill a few holes into some scrap 2x4 in the garage. Then I was able to support more of the gun, and didn't have to look for the pins either. Also, the punch that Cajun Gunworks sells is a god-send for starting on some of the factory pins.

Lastly, here's another good resource for doing a detail strip. More pictures, but some slight variations because Oleg is working on a Shadow.

http://www.olegnikitin.com/news/complete-disassembly-assembly-of-cz-75-sp-01-shadow

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Thanks for the great link to Oleg's site.

I also agree that a nice starter punch is a necessity to remove a factory trigger pin. I got mine from CGW also.

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I also love the macgyver tool substitution! lol, mag brake to lift sear spring, firing pin used as a punch on the extractor pin! not that I'd do it myself, but it's a clever idea!

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The hammer retainer pin (the little vertical one) also makes a perfect slave pin for aligning the trigger and TRS.....

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

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In case anyone is interested in a direct comparison between an SP01 and a Shadow, I swapped in a pre-b sear, installed a Shadow top end and took some trigger pull readings:

Edited by kneelingatlas

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So after my polishing/mods the SP01 was 7 pounds, 4 oz DA, 2 pounds, 11.6 ounces SA and a Shadow with all the same springs/polishing, but without the firing pin block/lifter was 5 pounds, 7 ounces DA, 2 pounds, 7 ounces SA. Keep in mind that these results are with an 11.5# hammer spring, which when combined with an extended firing pin and reduced power firing pin return spring will set off most small pistol primers (I haven't tried Tula or Wolf); with an 8.5# hammer spring and Federal primers, you can go much lower, but I feel like it gets a little mushy at that point.

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very interesting. so it looks like the firing pin block does add a little to both trigger pulls. makes sense to me, but nice to see it confirmed. :)

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IMG_20140124_241246_639_zpse6694919.jpg

Once everything is assembled with the short reset disconnector the trigger may not reset so you will need to remove a little metal from any/all of the following places: the firing pin block lifter arm, the wedge of the disconnector and the trigger bar.

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IMG_20140124_245400_342_zpsb56201fe.jpg

Go SLOW when removing metal, there’s no going back!

It seems as though you chose the "Type 1" CGW disconnector so you could use it as a blank and fit it manually to get the shortest SA reset possible. Right?

I'm having trouble understanding the alterations you made to make it work. How did you know how much and where to remove metal on the new short reset disconnector?

Part of my problem is that I don't fully understand the mechanical operations of the DA and SA firing systems in detail enough to figure out what needs to be adjusted. I'm not sure what part the disconnector plays in the overall firing scheme. Can you give an explanation?

ETA: Removed inaccurate information about Hammer hooks.

Edited by RaylanGivens

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