Ken6PPC Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, kneelingatlas said: Fixed! Thanks to whoever is responsible for restoring this valuable resource. It is much appreciated! And, of course, to Prof. Atlas for creating such a great resource in the 1st place! Edited July 12, 2017 by Ken6PPC more info... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsessiveshooter Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 I had this post up on my computer while I replaced all the springs and polished the internals of my tristar p-120 I bought this week. Thanks you professor Atlas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 8 minutes ago, obsessiveshooter said: I had this post up on my computer while I replaced all the springs and polished the internals of my tristar p-120 I bought this week. Thanks you professor Atlas! Glad it helped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtrump Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 I'm picking up my shadow 2 from my FFL on Monday.. I've been through 1911's and Glock's, M&P's, but this cz scares me haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissionaryMike Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Quick question about "softening" the bottom of the breech face. Since that's the part of the slide that strips a new round into the chamber(I think?), doesn't keeping that angle as sharp as possible ensure the next round gets properly chambered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 4 hours ago, MissionaryMike said: Quick question about "softening" the bottom of the breech face. Since that's the part of the slide that strips a new round into the chamber(I think?), doesn't keeping that angle as sharp as possible ensure the next round gets properly chambered? No, the center of the breech face seats the round in the chamber, not the bottom edge. You don't need to go crazy beveling it, just smooth it enough to keep it from dragging on the top round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tok36 Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 ^^Interesting stuff, i do not see this topic come up much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paramajic4 Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Just found this thread, wish I would have seen it a year ago. Awesome info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ntmdt3r Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 I put a cgw srs in my sp01 and it didnt change the reset. About 6mm with over travel, what is stock? David said it must have had the short lifter arm already installed(some early models did) if it didnt change, but it didn't have the low lift firing pin (that i could tell). So out of curiosity i took the lifter arm out and checked the reset, Its the same. Should it be or is something else making it not be as short? Or did i have the short reset already and thats as good as it gets? I bought the gun used but only the hammer spring was supposed to have been changed and the test target was dated 2015 so i wouldn't think that was early enough to have the short reset. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 I seem to recall I had the same concerns as you on my standard SP-01. I read a post that said that the point where the trigger CLICKS is not the same point it RESETS. As in, I can let up of the trigger slowly and pull back (dropping the hammer) before I feel the tactile click. Which this information in mind I did find that the kit did reduce the reset. Try experimenting with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ntmdt3r Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Thanks sniperboy I tried that but the hammer wont drop until the click. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gdub29E Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 Hey hey all. First let me say, what a great informative resource for the cz guys. Coming over from single stack 1911s to the shadow 2, the cz’s are a joy to shoot. New shadow 2 I’ve Flat blocked and polished to a mirror finish. Have not made any spring changes yet as I’m still getting the hang of the hinge type trigger. Im curious about the double action end of this. I hope this isn’t outside the “101” part. I’ve noticed that my double action break is breaking a bit after my single action break. (Or SA is breaking before depending on which way you look at it) This causes a excessive amount of overtravel in the single action, somewhere around a few mm. If you were to adjust the over travel screw down to make the SA overtravel less it will not be able to break I’m DA. What I would like to do is bring both the SA break and DA break closer together. Either by making the DA break earlier or SA break later. This would allow me to set the overtravel screw for both actions with the smallest overtravel. I do understand there’s a trade off with the reset. I do see from the photos of the trigger bar and sear for the DA / SA break. I’m just not sure if bringing them closer will effect the timing elsewhere. What would be the best way to go about achieving this? Thanks in advance. PS ~ sry for the long winded post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Question, I'm installing the CGW kit into my S-2 and the SA trigger won't reset. The kit uses the T3 disco so now I'm filing to fit. What's the "average" amount of material that has to be removed? Are we talking thousandths, hundredths, or fractions? What works better than "needle" files to work it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurusty Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 About .01" at a time and assemble, function check until you've taken enough material offSent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Sounds good, thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted December 3, 2017 Share Posted December 3, 2017 (edited) On 10/27/2017 at 10:30 AM, Sniperboy said: I seem to recall I had the same concerns as you on my standard SP-01. I read a post that said that the point where the trigger CLICKS is not the same point it RESETS. As in, I can let up of the trigger slowly and pull back (dropping the hammer) before I feel the tactile click. Which this information in mind I did find that the kit did reduce the reset. Try experimenting with that. Can't edit my post a few posts up, but in order to not spread bad info, please ignore what I posted before.. I now realized that I was experiencing "false reset" syndrome. It has since been fixed : ) by bending down the left trigger bar lifter spring leg (the side with the slide release) down. Edited December 3, 2017 by Sniperboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KzBoost Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 Just finished installing the CGW shadow2 kit, my DA and manually cocking the hammer works fine, but if I rack the slide, the trigger doesnt reset and gets 'stuck, pulling the trigger will not drop the hammer. The only way to drop the hammer is to take off the slide and push the sear down. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertTortoise Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 I’m probably on a few hours ahead of you experience wise, but I’d check the trigger bar spring. It should be touching the “grooves” under the trigger bar. If you pop the spring off the underside of the grooves, the right side should have about 1/16 inch upward pressure above the lower edge of the bar and the left side should be even with the lower edge of left side trigger bar. If you over tighten the screw securing the magazine catch spring / trigger bar spring, the trigger bar spring can get pulled out of place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KzBoost Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 4 minutes ago, DesertTortoise said: I’m probably on a few hours ahead of you experience wise, but I’d check the trigger bar spring. It should be touching the “grooves” under the trigger bar. If you pop the spring off the underside of the grooves, the right side should have about 1/16 inch upward pressure above the lower edge of the bar and the left side should be even with the lower edge of left side trigger bar. If you over tighten the screw securing the magazine catch spring / trigger bar spring, the trigger bar spring can get pulled out of place I haven't removed that trigger bar spring yet, but I'll check. It seems that if I manually push down on the trigger bar while cocking the hammer, it'll lock up as well. Also when pulling the trigger, the trigger bar doesn't pop upward like other CZ's I have compared to. CGW told me to fit the disco, so I'll give that a shot as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 I agree with Doug, check the trigger bar before you break out the files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KzBoost Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 2 hours ago, kneelingatlas said: I agree with Doug, check the trigger bar before you break out the files Haven't removed that screw, so its still staked in there. I did however notice that the trigger bar spring isnt sitting perfectly in those channels. Is it supposed to? Its still riding the trigger bar and seems okay. Still can't figure out this reset issue.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted December 9, 2017 Author Share Posted December 9, 2017 So you say DA works fine, slide on or off? It's just the SA which won't drop the hammer with the slide on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KzBoost Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 (edited) 27 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said: So you say DA works fine, slide on or off? It's just the SA which won't drop the hammer with the slide on? Yup, Ended up taking metal off the CGW disconnector. The metal on this thing is no joke, it's hard as hell. Took me about 20 tries, 4 hours of cussing and a few beers, but I finally got it working. PS: Is blue loctite enough for the adjustable sear set screw? Or do you actually need red loctite? Edited December 9, 2017 by KzBoost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 I've never used anything to keep it in place and never had a problem, but if you want a little extra hold I imagine a dab of nail polish on the set screw after adjustment would be plenty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KzBoost Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 2 hours ago, kneelingatlas said: I've never used anything to keep it in place and never had a problem, but if you want a little extra hold I imagine a dab of nail polish on the set screw after adjustment would be plenty. much appreciated Atlas! Thanks for the guide. Happy holidays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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