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This is a sticky worthy post.

Really comprehensive and easy to follow. Good stuff John.

Lester

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Stuart, have you tried cutting off one of the legs on the trigger bar spring? Since a lighter plunger bar spring can do do much for a Tanfo it seems like that might make dome gains on a CZ.

i find that the CZ trigger bar needs the support on both side. you can lessen the tension ( evenly ) and it will change the feel of the DA stroke in a good way.

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awesome thread mate. :) it's the info aspiring CZ smiths need. :) as you know I've spent some time on mine, including doing stuff like short reset disco but it's great to have all the pics there for people who haven't done it before.

from memory the shadow's have springs and detents on both safeties (left and right). and obviously not FPB, so the sear asembly and disco are a little different. and firing pin is just retained with the back plate, no pin. but otherwise they are the same. just thought I'd mention it for any shadow peeps.

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Great info!!! Thanks for taking the time to lay all this out for us.

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subscribed

Edited by emjei

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Great tutorial. The only thing I would suggest is replacing instead of reinstalling the pins when working on the hammer. They are heavily staked and usually get hurt on the way out.

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An easier way to remove the staked pins from the hammer is to put it on a piece of wood and drive the pins into the wood. The hammer is better supported doing it this way, and you are also driving down instead of sideways like in the vice, leading to less chance of the punch drifting and scoring the side of the hammer.

On a regular SP01 Shadow there is only a spring detent on the left side safety, the right side safety is the same as in this thread.

Great post, and great photos, I'm sure many people will be eating this up.

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On my SP 01 I machined the ledge on the firing pin that catches the FPB down to .018 thick so that the FPB needs less travel to clear it, then shortened the foot on the lifter to remove the excess travel. Makes the reset pretty sweet.

That's great thinking and exactly the sort of brainstorming I has hoping for with this thread :)

I was afraid to take too much off the lifter foot thinking the block would no longer clear so I took some off the corresponding edge of the trigger bar. I'll have to post a video of the reset one of these days...

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An easier way to remove the staked pins from the hammer is to put it on a piece of wood and drive the pins into the wood. The hammer is better supported doing it this way, and you are also driving down instead of sideways like in the vice, leading to less chance of the punch drifting and scoring the side of the hammer.

I like this idea too, keep 'em coming!

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Awesome info and pictures! And my short reset connector just arrive ready for install - perfect timing :-)

Edited by trgt

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Excellent post JOhn.. a lot of new CZ ownres will be looking thread up for years to come and will help them out big time :cheers:

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Mind BLOWN! This is the best post I've seen yet. I've been wanting to install a comp hammer myself, thanks for providing the tutorial for those that think they're mechanically astute enough to attempt it!

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Great post, Makes me want to go out and get one and try it.

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An easier way to remove the staked pins from the hammer is to put it on a piece of wood and drive the pins into the wood. The hammer is better supported doing it this way, and you are also driving down instead of sideways like in the vice, leading to less chance of the punch drifting and scoring the side of the hammer.

I like this idea too, keep 'em coming!

I found a piece of 4" wide hard wood flooring works best. 6-8" piece flipped upside down, hammer fits perfectly in the grooves.

Edited by jabbermurph

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Great thread. Very informative. A you tube video next?

I did a Witness trigger job on camera once, but it was like five hours of footage and I never got around to editing; I decided the picture thread was enough work for me :eatdrink:

Edited by kneelingatlas

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Excellent! I've been wanting to dig into a Springfield P9 Compact for ages. Now I have direction. Thanks. :cheers:

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Great post Prof.!

He said it once already but it's worth repeating. Gains can be DRAMATIC with even just one or two of the items he outlined done right. I did just basic polish steps that KneelingAtlas showed and I was blown away at the difference in the trigger feel both DA and SA. I am in no way a gunsmith, not even a shade tree one!, all it takes is a little mechanical savvy and the ability to follow his pics.

I did come across similar info when I did my Shadow but nothing as orderly with such great pics. This post would have made it even easier for a first timer like myself.

The video part mentioned.... Shadow disassembly video? It's about the only thing you CAN'T find on YouTube! I vaguely remember some Shogun videos but they are a lost treasure now... Even the links on CZF are dead...

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Great post Prof.!

He said it once already but it's worth repeating. Gains can be DRAMATIC with even just one or two of the items he outlined done right. I did just basic polish steps that KneelingAtlas showed and I was blown away at the difference in the trigger feel both DA and SA. I am in no way a gunsmith, not even a shade tree one!, all it takes is a little mechanical savvy and the ability to follow his pics.

I did come across similar info when I did my Shadow but nothing as orderly with such great pics. This post would have made it even easier for a first timer like myself.

The video part mentioned.... Shadow disassembly video? It's about the only thing you CAN'T find on YouTube! I vaguely remember some Shogun videos but they are a lost treasure now... Even the links on CZF are dead...

for sure. hell even doing some basic tuning with just hammer springs and recoil springs and a home made load transforms they way a new out of the box shadow shoots. it's a totally different gun with a 13lb hammer spring and 11 or 12lb recoil spring vs a standard one with 16 and 16 shooting factory loads.

once you start doing the parts upgrades and the de-burring of parts it's a whole new level again. the short reset disco is probably my favourite mod. and not primarily because of the shorter reset (my shadow mate already has very short reset from the box) but because of the fact that it removes so much of the single action pre-travel that is present out of the box. that's the awesome difference for me. :) you can shorten the reset other ways, but doing the disco removes a lot of that SA pre-travel.

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With a regular Shadow, removing the firing pin is as easy as pushing a small punch onto the firing pin depressing it far enough that you can slide the rear plate down and out, keeping your hand over it so the firing pin and spring don't launch.

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