Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

SJC Frame Weight


troupe

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...

Yes they do work. I have a G35 with lightened slide and a frame weight to up the pistol mass. Works well. I've even used the glock light with all internal parts removed and batteries replaced with lead cylinders. Gun is very stable and weighs more than my STI edge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will also attest to it working... when it stays on! I had it come off at a match today, although I wasn't too surprised. There has to be a better way to mount the thing. I too decided to drill indents in mine but we'll see how long that holds to 40 major loads. I may decide to tap the metal insert provided and get longer set screws to go into it. Anyone have other ideas?

I've also noticed it lacks support in towards the grip therefore causing it to cant downwards as it pushes on the dust cover. I think tapping it would also solve this problem. I also chose to turn the plate around and simply not use the forward most screw.

I'd say loctite is a must.

I was able to modify my DAA racer holster for it although its not a super simple task. A race master could also be modified the same way. A guy I shoot with helped and did the milling for me. It looks a bit rough but in the end its about the function. I'll post pictures once I get take some.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I figured out how to keep mine level and make it stay on. As Sweetback said you have to drill small indentions into the plate for the set screws to get a bite into the plate. Once you run a drill bit through all the holes in the weight for the small indentions run the set screws up until you feel them make contact into the indentions and just snug them in place. Before installing the set screws you have to degrease the threaded holes in the weight and the set screws. Then apply a drop of blue Loctite to each set screw before snugging (not tightening) them into place. Once all of this is done the weight will stay level and solidly in place and the set screws will not loosen, move or back out. I have several thousand rounds of major .40 through mine and it has not budged since doing this. I agree that this device works as good in dampening recoil as anything I have tried. In combination with a heavy guide rod and a solid brass mag well my gun is a pleasure to shoot. Worth every penny in my opinion once you go through the small inconvenience of getting it solidly in place. I did this to all the holes, as long as you don't crank down on the set screws the weight will remain dead level and the more screws holding the better.

Edited by bowenbuilt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will also attest to it working... when it stays on! I had it come off at a match today, although I wasn't too surprised. There has to be a better way to mount the thing. I too decided to drill indents in mine but we'll see how long that holds to 40 major loads. I may decide to tap the metal insert provided and get longer set screws to go into it. Anyone have other ideas?

I've also noticed it lacks support in towards the grip therefore causing it to cant downwards as it pushes on the dust cover. I think tapping it would also solve this problem. I also chose to turn the plate around and simply not use the forward most screw.

I'd say loctite is a must.

I was able to modify my DAA racer holster for it although its not a super simple task. A race master could also be modified the same way. A guy I shoot with helped and did the milling for me. It looks a bit rough but in the end its about the function. I'll post pictures once I get take some.

Would it be easier to machine part of the weight off to clear a remaster or would too mach be lost? Do you have any pictures showing the racer with the gun holstered and also how the racer was modified?

I am contemplating the same setup only using the racemaster.

Edited by LoganbillJ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I modified the holster, I polished and sanded the back edge of the weight but I will take picture after my match tomorrow.

Thank Bowen. I just tried drilling the holes a little. You didn't drill all the way through right? I haven't yet but like I said I was thinking of threading them which would require that but I guess I'll try what you said and see if it works for me. I just cleaned the holes with some acetone and the set screws. Did you use red or blue loctite. I was planning on Blue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, not all the way through but about half way, I used blue so I could get them out if I needed to, Once you make an indention for the screws and the nose of the screw goes into it, it is not going to come loose unless it tears the plate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats' what I'm slightly worried about. The plate is already torn a bit since I didnt drill it before the first time I used it. Thats part of the reason why I flipped it around. Has anyone asked SJC for another? I've also notices if I put it on the right way it wont slide all the way on and there is a slight gap between the end of the weight and the gun due to the plate being too long. Anyone else experience this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We had to increase the ramp to make it so the draw was still smooth. You can also see in the second picture The back edge of the weight is rounded off to help with the friction of the draw. With all of this there is no noticeable different in draw friction. The last picture shows the gap left at the end from the plate being too long. I have since taking this photo gone ahead and sanded away a bit of the plate to make it so it will slide on completely.

post-53135-0-99096600-1400536272_thumb.j

post-53135-0-51347800-1400536279_thumb.j

post-53135-0-54624900-1400536293_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine does not have the *thumb rest [generic]* attached and it looks like your is about 1/8" to the rear too far. There should be at least 1/8 more between the take down lever and the *thumb rest [generic]* so it does not interfere with taking the gun down. I believe the plate is longer with the *thumb rest [generic]* kit. Mine slid right back against the back of the frame with no problem. If you drill all the indents correctly the set screws will disappear on the bottom of the weight and I don't think shooting will be able to dislodge it unless you break the frame. I gave mine a few good licks with a dead blow hammer after the Loctite dried just to see if I could move it. It did not budge.

Edited by bowenbuilt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah its definitely a chore trying to take it down. I'm thinking about buying the extended take downs to help out. I'll call and ask tomorrow. It seems to me since they manufacture both parts they would work together without any hitch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guys running this...have you tried Zev's brass magwell and large insert (6oz) and extended tungsten guide rod previously? My Zev 24 Longshot weighs 36.5oz with an empty mag +0 pad.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...