550b Failsafe Rod Bind

[ToneSurfer]

So I'm setting up a new 550b (first time). Getting the powder measure set up and to the point of installing the failsafe operating rod and then aligning the measure and tighteing up the screws to hold it in place.

If I set it so the operating rod is vertical in relation to the bellcranks and the the tab on the platform the operation is very tight and clunky. It causes the hopper and measure to wiggle and shake all over the place. The rod is binding in the hole and slot in the two bellcranks on the measure. If however I set it so the rod is at an angle, where it naturally fits to allow no binding, everything is fine. Except for the fact that the threads on the end of the rod now drag through the little white bushing which I expect will wear it out soon.

Examining the end of the of the operating rod where the two 90 degree bends are its clear that this is not a true 90 on either end. I think the first bend should be a perfect 90 so that the part of the rod that passes through the bellcranks can be perpendicular to those surfaces. It doesn't much matter about the last bend as that just keeps the rod in place.

Has anyone else experienced this? I mean the instructions don't say it has to be vertical, that just seems the "normal" way it should be.

Called Dillon, didn't feel like waiting on hold behind 25 people.

[1911 S.I.S.sy]

Make sure the end with the 90 is hooked on the appropriate side of the poder bar actuator. Try turning it around and the cycle the press with nothing in the shell plate and the powder measure loose to see where the rod naturally lines up. Then tighten down the powder measure.

[Sarge]

Threads dragging through the white gizmo is normal. I have at least 1/4" of threads showing above mine. The spring should be compressed when you push the handle all the way back. What I do is loosen the hopper and cycle the handle with brass in the powder station. I do this several times. This pretty much lets the system self center itself for smoothest operation. You can also pull the assy apart and lightly sand and smooth the surfaces of the parts that rub together. Then I put a dab of grease or drop of oil on the surfaces as well. Mine seems to run pretty smooth.

[ToneSurfer]

The rod is going through the bellcranks from left to right, just like the manual shows. I thought about sanding some on the end of the rod, it does have some burrs on it. But I thought I'd ask before I go to buger-ing on it.

So mine works ok with the rod at an angle. Is that pretty typical? Or should I not worry as long as it works.

[Sarge]

The rod is going through the bellcranks from left to right, just like the manual shows. I thought about sanding some on the end of the rod, it does have some burrs on it. But I thought I'd ask before I go to buger-ing on it.

So mine works ok with the rod at an angle. Is that pretty typical? Or should I not worry as long as it works.

If it is making full travel both directions and dropping consistent loads I would let it wear in on it's own and not worry much about it. As smooth as mine has become it could still be described as clunky in it's operation.

[HighCountryStalker]

The bends in my rod are not a perfect 90 degrees either. As Sarge said, assemble the fail safe rod with the Allen screws of the hopper loose. Then I operate the handle up and down a few times, sliding the white bushing up and down, which self centers the rod and hopper and then snug down the hopper. Mine ends up almost vertical.

[ToneSurfer]

The bends in my rod are not a perfect 90 degrees either. As Sarge said, assemble the fail safe rod with the Allen screws of the hopper loose. Then I operate the handle up and down a few times, sliding the white bushing up and down, which self centers the rod and hopper and then snug down the hopper. Mine ends up almost vertical.

Mine ends up at a very pronounced angle. Just hanging it in the bellcranks is juts out to the left. I positioned the hopper, etc. to allow for this. The rod still has quite a bit of movement as the press is cycled and because of the angle it chatters a bit as the threaded end drags through the bushing. Seems to be working ok. I got it set to throw powder last night.

I'll run a few rounds this weekend to check everything else out. Probably call Dillon and ask for a replacement regardless.

[Sarge]

The bends in my rod are not a perfect 90 degrees either. As Sarge said, assemble the fail safe rod with the Allen screws of the hopper loose. Then I operate the handle up and down a few times, sliding the white bushing up and down, which self centers the rod and hopper and then snug down the hopper. Mine ends up almost vertical.

Mine ends up at a very pronounced angle. Just hanging it in the bellcranks is juts out to the left. I positioned the hopper, etc. to allow for this. The rod still has quite a bit of movement as the press is cycled and because of the angle it chatters a bit as the threaded end drags through the bushing. Seems to be working ok. I got it set to throw powder last night.

I'll run a few rounds this weekend to check everything else out. Probably call Dillon and ask for a replacement regardless.

is your rod inserted left to right? Shouldn't be too much of an angle on it when set up right Edited March 5, 2014 by Sarge

[Youngeyes]

And how does your rod hang? A little to the left?

[Kevinj]

The bends in my rod are not a perfect 90 degrees either. As Sarge said, assemble the fail safe rod with the Allen screws of the hopper loose. Then I operate the handle up and down a few times, sliding the white bushing up and down, which self centers the rod and hopper and then snug down the hopper. Mine ends up almost vertical.

Yep, I had to square the bends up on mine to make it work right

[Steve RA]

You could always take it off and use a couple of springs, like the old days. Powder measures ran a lot smoother then.

[wgj3]

I have one of the old spring-actuated powder measures that I got with my used 650 a couple years ago and I'm a fan.

[808win]

ToneSurfer, I experienced the exact problem you described. I discussed the problem as I saw it with Dillon and they sent me a replacement failsafe rod assembly. The replacement rod was better (workable) but not perfect.

I’m thinking about trying a Super 1050 failsafe rod, if it’s the correct length (don’t know). It has a single 90 degree bend and a clip that secures it to the bellcrank assembly. If it works, it may make it easier to disconnect the failsafe rod from the powder measure when removing the measure or toolhead. I would check with Dillon before proceeding.

[808win]

Here's a picture of my original 550 failsafe rod and a 1050 failsafe rod. Check with Dillon before modifying or substituting any parts.

[RDA]

Here's a picture of my original 550 failsafe rod and a 1050 failsafe rod. Check with Dillon before modifying or substituting any parts.

Thanks for the pic. I wonder how the 650 failsafe rod compares to the 550 and 1050? For example, my 650 failsafe rod is 9.5" long from the threaded end to the perpendicular bend. What is the length of the 1050 rod?

[808win]

RDA, it's about 9.75" long. I don't have a 650, but from what I can tell from the pictures in the manual, the rod for the 650 is not straight. but has an offset bend along its length. I'm sure you already know this though.

[RDA]

RDA, it's about 9.75" long. I don't have a 650, but from what I can tell from the pictures in the manual, the rod for the 650 is not straight. but has an offset bend along its length. I'm sure you already know this though.

Perfect, thank you. Yes, the 650 rod is bent which could very easily be duplicated.