3djedi Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 The bluing on my 2011 is worn off and scuffed from holster wear. I was wondering if anyone has tried cerakote on their 2011 and how well it is holding up. I have this urge to do mine in flat dark earth! If you have any pictures of yours I would love to see them. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gooldylocks Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 I don't have an STI but I know people do, because when I was looking at cerakote for my AR I found this picture: http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/7729/dscn0421p.jpg Probably one of the prettiest guns I have ever seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latech15 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Ceracoat will hold up about as well as bluing. It will wear off on the areas that rub in your holster and the corners. It will look better while doing it though. If you are going to use a paint type product, plan on doing it once a year or couple of years anyway. Chrome, any of the nitride processes, or the like will last longer and not require upkeep like ceracoat. If your gun is in a racemaster type of holster it will last much longer than a full kydex as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calvinc78 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 I've had 2 open guns cerakoted and love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3djedi Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Is cerakote a spray on type of product? I was thinking is was something harder like a baked on finish or something. What is a harder finish that won't wear off quickly and has colors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonovanM Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Is cerakote a spray on type of product? I was thinking is was something harder like a baked on finish or something. What is a harder finish that won't wear off quickly and has colors? Check out the IonBond DLC offered by Springer Precision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Ceracoat will hold up about as well as bluing. It will wear off on the areas that rub in your holster and the corners. It will look better while doing it though. If you are going to use a paint type product, plan on doing it once a year or couple of years anyway. Chrome, any of the nitride processes, or the like will last longer and not require upkeep like ceracoat. If your gun is in a racemaster type of holster it will last much longer than a full kydex as well. I would say it wears. ALOT better than bluing. Both of those guns where done in 2011. The only wear on the 1911 is ATT he tri top points where I torque the gun out if the holster a bit. The shadow has a bit on the slide corner and a bit by the rail. That's after lord only knows how many dry fire draws and rounds. It's more than just spray on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkcomatt Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 It's not cerakote, but I have had coated a 2011 and this 1911 in moly resin. The 1911 pictured is built as tight as any custom 2011. I just don't have a good pic of the 2011. Both guns run fine after plating. Just have to be careful in re-assembly on tight guns. Really oil them up good and be gentle on initial assembly. Once together, work the slide several times. Then you can wipe some of the oil off and go shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkcomatt Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 I have never tried posting a pic. First time it told me wrong format. Changed it and this time it did not give me any error but the pic is not showing. Sorry. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonedudley Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Scalpel Arms... best hands down. Scalpelarms.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APL-G35 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 (edited) Ion bond is the best stuff going. I have it done on my 1911 and it's amazing. My 2011 is cera koted. Be aware that whoever does it may apply it thick and you can have to do some minor refitting of slide and frame depending on how tight your gun is. Edited February 21, 2014 by APL-G35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HRider Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I have an STI Eagle that the slide has been Ceracoated on. It is wearing at the muzzle, but the rest of it is still looking good. It gets drawn from a full kydex holster. It is holding up better than bluing. Hurley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stnick Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Cerakote is a spray on coat. There are two types as far as I know. The heat treated and the non-heat treated. The heat treated version is more durable. It specifies which type it is on the label and on their site. It's very durable for a spray on finish. One great thing about Cerakote is, because it is a spray on finish, it can hide imperfections in the frame/slide. If you have any when Ionbond/DLC finish a gun, you'll be living with them. Unlike Ionbond/DLC/TiN/PVD/hard chrome finishes, the Cerakote will make the gun tighter due to the thickness of the finish as I think someone previously stated. If you do the rails, it may be difficult to fit the slide to frame until the coat wears off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 More like the coating wears in. Makes it super smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tino2212 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I have the frame of my open custom 2011 ceracoated and this holds up very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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