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Belted mag powder system


bubba04

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I am confused. I have a 550 that I am all but set up to reload my 300 weatherby mag with. I have the belted powder system and the 300 conversion. However the powder funnel that came with the conversion just falls straight through the powder die instead of shouldering out. Does the belted system use a different powder funnel?

I noticed the id of the powder funnel on the belted system is different than the standard powder funnel.

If anyone knows the answer I would be appreciative!

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Reading the description, the system you bought comes with the XL die. They mention this die is for large cases: .416 Rigby, .338, etc. By the sound of it, you need to use the regular powder die. As far as I can tell from the pictures I can see, it should work.

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I load semi-precision rifle in a "semi progressive" manner. I would highly suggest it. Ask yourself how many .300 WBY mags you'll shoot in a year, or a session. What is your goal, blasting under 100 or accuracy over 300?

1. Process brass on your progressive. Decap, resize, etc. Tumble clean. Trim, prime and you are essentially done with brass prep, unless you want to get overly anal and process primer pockets and turn your case necks. More power to you if you do. Whichever method you use, priming is the last stage on case prep. Inspect for primer seating, and flipped or crushed primers, remove and bad primers and reprime. Store for later reloading with a primer box cover in your bag (gallon ziplock bags work great for volume amounts). Separate these two functions, case prep and reloading.

2. Weigh out your powder charges and trickle charge each one to your goal weight, set cartridges in loading block. This is the slow part.

3. Remove the brass button at the seating stage. Grab a primed case with powder, add a bullet, seat, advance, then grab another, seat (while the first round is being crimped, if you crimp), and now you can really put out a high volume of much higher quality ammunition rather than trusting the 0.2-0.5% error factor on each powder charge, especially if you are using a stick powder. Groups will tighten up compared to going full on progressive, assuming you have your seating and crimping dies calibrated. I have extra tool heads set up just for this operation on a number of calibers.

Speed in reloading isn't always the best, especially if you plan on loading for less than 1 minute of accuracy at longer ranges. Using your progressive press to speed up single stage reloading does make sense.

If you are shooting blasting ammo, by all means, ignore what I said.

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bubba04, thanks for the information. Looks like your worst low throw was with the improved baffle. I've been using the baffle upgrade to the Uniflow (using the RCBS Uniflow with the linkage kit) from Sinclare International. It converts the Uniflow to the same baffle and bottles as the super accurate Harrell's type, its not expensive. I've seen some real improvements. Also, powder throw variation is important, however, if my loads show a low SD, even with some powder throw variation - I'll take the SD numbers every time. Additionally, with any manufacture's measure, as the amount of powder per charge increases, such as for a large cartridge, a variation of powder throw becomes less of an influence as the percentage of variation of the entire load is less. For example. a .05 average grain throw variation in something like a 25gr charge for a .223 is significant. That same .05 grain average in a 100 grain charge for a 338 Lapua is no so.... So, you pick your battles. As I said earlier, the Dillon Magnum Measure has worked well for me also.

Edited by Doc Hunter
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Doc, thanks for the reply. Mind liking what you are using to throw powder?

Also what would you consider an acceptable variation for 80 grains?

bubba04, thanks for the information. Looks like your worst low throw was with the improved baffle. I've been using the baffle upgrade to the Uniflow (using the RCBS Uniflow with the linkage kit) from Sinclare International. It converts the Uniflow to the same baffle and bottles as the super accurate Harrell's type, its not expensive. I've seen some real improvements. Also, powder throw variation is important, however, if my loads show a low SD, even with some powder throw variation - I'll take the SD numbers every time. Additionally, with any manufacture's measure, as the amount of powder per charge increases, such as for a large cartridge, a variation of powder throw becomes less of an influence as the percentage of variation of the entire load is less. For example. a .05 average grain throw variation in something like a 25gr charge for a .223 is significant. That same .05 grain average in a 100 grain charge for a 338 Lapua is no so.... So, you pick your battles. As I said earlier, the Dillon Magnum Measure has worked well for me also.

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Ha! Bubba, I don't like any variation. However, for the most part that is unrealistic. For one thing consider this - your scale. How accurate and reliable is it? There is likely variation there as well. So, my plan has been this. For progressive loading, with a stick type powder, I try and stay will small kernel stuff. I'm not crazy about ball powders, however they have their place. Either of these will do well with the Dillon measure. For anything as large as say Varget, I think that the RCBS with the Sinclair baffle mod works ok. Not great, but acceptable for most stuff. Now, and this is the important part, what range and application is the load designed for? The longer the range, the greater the variation of velocity will impact vertical dispersion. Your standard deviation will give you a number to work with, and that is what I would suggest you use as your point of reference. Also, some loads hit a sweet spot and the variation has some range that keeps the load still good. Lastly, primers play a role. When I shoot groups for accuracy testing, I shoot a 10 round group, not the three round that tells little.

Edited by Doc Hunter
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Are you seating on the 550? I got away from seating rifle primers on a machine a long time ago. A Lee hand primer tool will do a better job, and you will be able to feel the primer seat. However, with the 550, if the shell plate is too loose, the case has room to move up away from the primer punch. Try to tighten the shell plate down until it will just turn and see if that fixes it.

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