77Litespeed Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I have 3 ar500 steel gongs and I end up shooting out or sheering the bolts every rifle practice session. Any hints on where to get some good hardened steel bolts? Other hanging hardware suggestions are welcome. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 OK I'll say it ,,,,don't shoot the bolts,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reinholt Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 mcmaster carr - carries high quality bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77Litespeed Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 Hahaha. Yeah, chicken and egg conundrum then. I suck at rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishsticks Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Use a carriage bolt and some conveyor belting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviesterno Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I've seen them hung with firehose cut to length, that seemed pretty solid. I've hung them with chain since it's so cheap, when you hit it you just replace that ring of chain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Take a chain link, divide it up or mark it up into 4 "pie" pieces. Cut one of the pie pieces out of the link, leaving you a 3/4 link, weld that onto the back of the target so it is like a hook. Use same chain to hang it from. Most likely you will need to cut two links like that and weld them on the back, then hang it from two chains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt in TN Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Grade 8 bolts from any hardware store can take more hits than normal Grade 2 bolts. They're not perfect, but are better. Use pieces from an old tire tread instead of chain (ideally one big piece as wide as the target). The tire is basically indestructible and can take many hits, whereas the chain just has to be hit once to fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taliv Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 grade 8 bolts and conveyor belt or firehose are the way to go. if you REALLY get tired of replacing bolts, call big dog steel and order some of their bolt protectors. it's a little round ar500 cover that fits over the bolt head and protects it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelShooten Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 The common 'big-box' stores do stock Grade-8 bolts but the selection is limited. Buy spares. Even the Grade 8 bolts will get chewed up by direct rifle hits. Plow-bolts are another option. Also, if your targets are AR500, do not weld directly to the plate. The steel will be softened near the weld where it was heated by the welding process. Its commonly done for pistol targets without obvious problems but rifle is much harder on the steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I am a certified welder in the coal handling/ electrical powerhouse/oil refining industry. I think you could understand the need for certain types of abrasion resistant steels would be required in such an industry. The various plant engineers I work under have a dedicated "schedule" or process for me when I weld AR plates and structures/mechanisms. This localized "softening" of the AR plate where it was welded, especially from the back side does not exist. Well, at least it doesn't exist when you know what you're doing. I guess some Bubba could FUBAR it all up if he didn't know what he was doing. Lastly, popper plates, gongs, etc. should be considered consumables. Don't expect to pass them down to your grandkids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77Litespeed Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Great feedback, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteelShooten Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 The various plant engineers I work under have a dedicated "schedule" or process for me when I weld AR plates and structures/mechanisms. This localized "softening" of the AR plate where it was welded, especially from the back side does not exist. Well, at least it doesn't exist when you know what you're doing. I suspect the instructions from your engineers are more about trying to minimize entrained hydrogen in the weld area, especially if you are preheating. If they are sharply controlling the amount of heat propagating from the weld, the goal is to minimize the heat effect. It doesn't eliminate it entirely. Not a job I feel comfortable giving to the local fab shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 The plant engineers get their directions from the manufacturer's engineers. It's a big game of CYA. I use a special 7018 rod. At least with a gong, a lot of the bullet's energy is absorbed by getting it to move, almost like a ballistic pendulum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZip Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I have even used 7018 to repair targets that have been shot through at close range by rifles. If done right, you can repair gongs with 7018 just fine. I run it on a DC stick welder and I love it. Chills, what about that rod you run on the outside of buckets and such thats really hard stuff don't you think? I know it's harder than 7018. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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