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Need advice for .308 head stamps


gatnfans

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Hey guys, I would like your input on how to use these different head stamps. I have about 1k total for these stamps and want to know if you have had any particular luck/disappointment with any individual head stamp. Also I was doing some research on casings and want to know what is the difference in the performance of the case between NATO and match. I will be using these for hunting and plinking. Is there one you would not use for hunting because of diminished accuracy? I did the research on where the stamps are from and found good/bad reviews on just about all of them. Thanks in advance for your input.

Here is the list of stamps.

All of these are NATO

LC, WCC, CBC, SBS, PSD, TAA, PMJ, RA, WRA

These are not NATO

Hornady Match, FC, Barnes

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Hi. I purchased a ton of Hornady 308 match factory loads recently and of recent manufacture. I did so to shoot and build up brass lot inventory. We'll I am not so happy for the match brass has crimped primer pockets. Now all the brass has to be processed the same as mil-spec brass. I am not amused. :-)

I am sure if I bought the brass just as new component it would be be fine. Now I will be more inquizent on once fired Hornady match brass.

RT

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I stick with LC and Win Commercial for anything requiring precision - these I will spend a lot of time on. Federal Brass, great in a factory SMK load, does not hold up well in the long run - especially in a gas gun. All the others you have listed, I would load and leave them during short drills. In other words, sort for the best - leave the rest. Don't waste good powder or good bullets in them. Oh yea, get use to the idea of crimped primers - it takes what, maybe 2 seconds to process one. And trim your cases too!

Edited by Doc Hunter
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I stick with LC and Win Commercial for anything requiring precision - these I will spend a lot of time on. Federal Brass, great in a factory SMK load, does not hold up well in the long run - especially in a gas gun. All the others you have listed, I would load and leave them during short drills. In other words, sort for the best - leave the rest. Don't waste good powder or good bullets in them. Oh yea, get use to the idea of crimped primers - it takes what, maybe 2 seconds to process one. And trim your cases too!

Thanks, thats was the direction I was leaning and I have processed all 1k to the same spec. When you say "load and leave them during short drills" do you mean load them once and discard?

Hi. I purchased a ton of Hornady 308 match factory loads recently and of recent manufacture. I did so to shoot and build up brass lot inventory. We'll I am not so happy for the match brass has crimped primer pockets. Now all the brass has to be processed the same as mil-spec brass. I am not amused. :-)

I am sure if I bought the brass just as new component it would be be fine. Now I will be more inquizent on once fired Hornady match brass.

RT

RT, my Hornady match primers were not crimped. Does your brass have the NATO stamp? Mine does not but I bought it loaded to get some base line on their production ammo.

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308 brass really needs to be sorted by head stamp. When I first got into the 308 game I was just getting whatever mixed was available. There is a HUGE difference in internal volumes of 308 that IMO isnt necessarily there with .223 brass. There just is no way to get a superbly accurate load with .308 using mixed head stamp. I now have 1000 Winchester and 100 Lapua. The Winchester goes into whatever, the Lapua only goes in my bolt gun.

All of my mixed head stamp has been relegated to loading 147-150 FMJBT stuff just for trigger time when I dont care about accuracy but just working on fundamentals.

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Yes, if it is not LC or Win., on short range drills with AR-10/SR-25 (mixed brass, all its good for) - I just generally leave it. The big Gas Guns are hard on brass anyway. You play around too much with questionable brass and a case head separation is inevitable. For a bolt gun, some of what you have listed will work if you separate by head stamp. Still, for me it is just easier to keep it simple with only LC and Winchester for most 308 work. I run only Lapua in a AI-AX 338 and also some Lapua in a 308 McMillan T2K "Special-Tactical-Long-Range" and also a Sako TRG. Only NORMA in a 6XC McMillan T2K "Special-Tactical-Long-Range" - but what fool would leave any of that brass on the ground.

Edited by Doc Hunter
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