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Stock II and primers


bayougump

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I recently purchased a Stock II and I'm shooting 147 Bayou Bullets. I had all the Xtreme parts installed (hammer, firing pin, and guide rod) along with a 9# Wolff recoil spring and a 13# Hammer spring. Shot first USPSA match last weekend and it ran great.

---side note, Jim at J&L Gunsmithing does AWESOME work---

Anyways, I loaded with Federal primers in my previous competition gun (G34) and course no issues. Zero issues last weekend with Stock II. Has anyone ran different primers with the setup I mentioned above? Federals can be hard to find down here lately and I've got 5K Winchesters that caused a small amount of light strikes in my 34. Any feedback would be appreciated as looking for alternative should the need ever arise. Thanks in advance

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I run a Stock II with a new Henning FP, 13lbs hammer spring, and 8lbs recoil srping, I get light strikes with CCI primers. I originally put an Eric FP in and was getting light strikes. I switched the FP out for the new Henning FP and have no issues with that now.

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My understanding is that Ben is popping Winchesters consistently.

I watched a buddy try tula's a few weeks ago with only about an 80% ignition rate.

Cock your hammer and then take an unsharpened #2 pencil and stick it eraser end down the barrel (eraser touches firing pin). Then stick the beavertail on a table that's about belt buckle height pointing the barrel straight to the ceiling. Then pull the trigger. How high does the pencil go? I'm 6ft and my eraser ends up at my chin or slightly higher. I'm told this will pop Winchester’s, but all i have is federals so it hasn't been put to the test.

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I don't understand what you're saying Goose :wacko: you got light strikes with the 13# hammer spring, EG XL FP and CCI primers right? but now you don't get them with 13# hammer spring, Henning's XL FP and CCI primers? or have you changed primers as well?

With all things being equal, except the firing pin, I was getting light strikes with Erics XL firing pin, but have not had a single issue with Hennings new XL firing pin. Same weight hammer spring and same CCI primers (Same batch of reloads)

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+1 on the pencil test. if it clears the whole length of an unsharpened pencil it should pop winchesters. My CZ shadow actually just make about 2inch (pencil test) and can pop federal primers all day.

OR, i actually load just primers and shoot em. resize/deprime and prime. This way you can certainly make sure it will or may not pop whatever primer you have. it will be a little loud so dont do it in the garage, it will sound like a fresh canister CO2 in an airsoft.

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Be careful on just cutting an arbitrary number of coils. We laid 10 factory firing pin springs down side by side and they were all different lengths. So if you take a short spring and just cut 3 coils off you could very well be cutting it too short.

As far as getting maximum force on the firing pin from the hammer, the goal is to cut the spring as short as you can without it being too short and getting stuck in the breach face. Keep in mind a new spring will "set" after a number of reps, so if you cut the spring to the ragged edge and then put a 1000 rounds on it, it could set and end up too short. So when your trimming you want it close, but not too close to the edge.

Also, you want dryfire the gun from SA, then push the hammer toward the firing pin. It shouldn't be able to move forward any. Do the same thing from DA. if the hammer has room to push forward you need to keep clipping coils.

Double check your trigger screw isn't in so far that it's not getting out of the way of the hammer. To check this pull your trigger all the way to the rear. Then work your hammer back and forth, you should not feel it catching on anything. If it does back your trigger screw out a hair and keep checking until the hammer moves free. The hanging up reduces hammer speed and therefore reduces the amount of force the hammer can put on the firing pin. Obviously that's not what you want.

Always verify force with the pencil test after you clip a spring.

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Also, you want dryfire the gun from SA, then push the hammer toward the firing pin. It shouldn't be able to move forward any. Do the same thing from DA. if the hammer has room to push forward you need to keep clipping coils.

I have noticed this. So, When my hammer is at rest (hammer face touching the firing pin), I can still push the hammer forward. Are you saying that at rest, the hammer should be pushing to firing pin all the way forward? Firing pin is flushed to the firing pin stop?

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Also, you want dryfire the gun from SA, then push the hammer toward the firing pin. It shouldn't be able to move forward any. Do the same thing from DA. if the hammer has room to push forward you need to keep clipping coils.

I have noticed this. So, When my hammer is at rest (hammer face touching the firing pin), I can still push the hammer forward. Are you saying that at rest, the hammer should be pushing to firing pin all the way forward? Firing pin is flushed to the firing pin stop?

To get the hammer to enact the maximum amount of force on the firing pin, then yes. At rest the firing pin should have no room to push forward at all. Like I said, Pull the trigger from both SA and DA and then try to push the hammer forward from both. If you can push it further forward you can keep clipping the firing pin spring.

That said, if you aren't having any problems popping whatever primer you're using then I wouldn't necessarily worry about it. I only shoot Feds but I still have my gun set up like this, if I was gonna shoot winchesters, or cci I'd think you'd definitely wanna do this. It's just going to increase your ability to reliabably pop primers.

When I was talking about running it to the ragged edge what I should have probably said is that on a new spring I would clip it to the point that the hammer still has about a mouse click worth of room to push forward. Then I'd put 1000 reps on that spring to help it set and check again. It should have set to the point that it can't push forward any longer. If it can then clip a little bit at a time until it can't. On a broken in spring you can go straight to the point it can't push forward any, just make sure you don't cut too much as that will cause the spring to get stuck in the breach face and you'll need to start the process over with a new spring.

I'd have a few extra springs on hand before I started this process just in case you screw one up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

That is good to know yall are having no issues with Winchester primers. I am using the Xtreme Pin and 13lb hammer spring too and I have typically only used Federal but I am going to load up a few hundred with Winchester now and see how it goes. Thanks for the responses.

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the problem is generally, in my experience, a over zealous firing pin block,...I have taken guns apart to find the block and pin have made contact and basically a shiny peened spot is the evidence of this...

for standard and open guns, I toss the block. for production guns, you need to test and polish to make sure it works, and does not malfunction.

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the problem is generally, in my experience, a over zealous firing pin block,...I have taken guns apart to find the block and pin have made contact and basically a shiny peened spot is the evidence of this...

for standard and open guns, I toss the block. for production guns, you need to test and polish to make sure it works, and does not malfunction.

+1

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