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Wolff spring longer than factory?


hukdizzle

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don't know why, but in my case the wolff spring is longer too. BTW, did you install Wolff's striker spring too?

No I did not since it's an extra strength striker spring it could have an issue going into battery with a full mag. I also use Federal Match primers so I have no problems igniting primers even with a lower powered striker spring. The 16LB spring definitely feels to be more linear and closes the gun into battery much better than the factory spring. I like it so far but I have no shot the gun with my reloads so we will see how it performs.

Edited by hukdizzle
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I got the same impression when I went to the 16lb Wolff. I've only got about ~1000 rounds through it since and it still doesn't seem lighter than the stock spring. The gun runs fine though, even with the puffball 147gr 9mm loads I've been shooting through it lately and the heavy Wolff striker spring. I may bump down to the 14lb. and see how that goes.

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don't know why, but in my case the wolff spring is longer too. BTW, did you install Wolff's striker spring too?

No I did not since it's an extra strength striker spring it could have an issue going into battery with a full mag. I also use Federal Match primers so I have no problems igniting primers even with a lower powered striker spring. The 16LB spring definitely feels to be more linear and closes the gun into battery much better than the factory spring. I like it so far but I have no shot the gun with my reloads so we will see how it performs.

The reason I asked is that in my case i replaced the factory spring with the Wolff and I started experiencing lite primer strikes and failure to ignite. So, I replaced the striker spring with the Wolff, and all the problems went away. I also did a full disassembly of the slide, cleaned and polished the striker, and striker channel in the slide. Not sure if the cleaning or spring replacement did the trick, but I am back in business. Will do some additional testing before my next match to validate.

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don't know why, but in my case the wolff spring is longer too. BTW, did you install Wolff's striker spring too?

No I did not since it's an extra strength striker spring it could have an issue going into battery with a full mag. I also use Federal Match primers so I have no problems igniting primers even with a lower powered striker spring. The 16LB spring definitely feels to be more linear and closes the gun into battery much better than the factory spring. I like it so far but I have no shot the gun with my reloads so we will see how it performs.

The reason I asked is that in my case i replaced the factory spring with the Wolff and I started experiencing lite primer strikes and failure to ignite. So, I replaced the striker spring with the Wolff, and all the problems went away. I also did a full disassembly of the slide, cleaned and polished the striker, and striker channel in the slide. Not sure if the cleaning or spring replacement did the trick, but I am back in business. Will do some additional testing before my next match to validate.

your striker spring will wear out too, and when you replace stuff, it sometimes fails to work. Always a good idea to replace your striker springs from time to time along with recoil springs.

And yes all the Wolff srpings I have are longer than the factory ones when I change them out. I'm sure if I compared a new Wolff to a used wolf the length would be different too!

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don't know why, but in my case the wolff spring is longer too. BTW, did you install Wolff's striker spring too?

No I did not since it's an extra strength striker spring it could have an issue going into battery with a full mag. I also use Federal Match primers so I have no problems igniting primers even with a lower powered striker spring. The 16LB spring definitely feels to be more linear and closes the gun into battery much better than the factory spring. I like it so far but I have no shot the gun with my reloads so we will see how it performs.

How does an extra strength striker spring cause issues with a gun going in to battery with a full mag?

That striker spring is compressed on the backstroke of the slide, which has nothing to do with forward movement.

Don't take that the wrong way, I am just asking the question because maybe something else is involved I am missing?

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don't know why, but in my case the wolff spring is longer too. BTW, did you install Wolff's striker spring too?

No I did not since it's an extra strength striker spring it could have an issue going into battery with a full mag. I also use Federal Match primers so I have no problems igniting primers even with a lower powered striker spring. The 16LB spring definitely feels to be more linear and closes the gun into battery much better than the factory spring. I like it so far but I have no shot the gun with my reloads so we will see how it performs.

How does an extra strength striker spring cause issues with a gun going in to battery with a full mag?

That striker spring is compressed on the backstroke of the slide, which has nothing to do with forward movement.

Don't take that the wrong way, I am just asking the question because maybe something else is involved I am missing?

The striker spring is actually not compressed on the rearward movement of the slide, it's compressed once the slide is moved forward from it's most rearward position and the striker is captured by the sear. The recoil spring is the active force that is causing the striker spring to become compressed. Under ready to fire conditions both of the springs are pushing the slide in opposite directions and if the recoil spring is providing too little force it can not allow the gun to go into battery and fire because the striker spring is overcoming the force of the recoil spring.

With that being said, I went ahead and put a 20% striker power reduction spring along with a reduced power striker return spring from PRP. Initially I had a PRP ultimate match trigger kit in the gun with a fully polished PRP sear and the pull was very smooth and at 3lb 10oz per my lyman guage. After the installation of the PRP striker and striker return spring the gun is currently right at a 3lb trigger pull. I can no longer feel the break of the trigger and it's exactly where I want it. The reduced power striker return spring will allow the striker and reduced power striker spring to carry more momentum and velocity to impact the primer which should alleviate any chance for a light strike.

Edited by hukdizzle
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don't know why, but in my case the wolff spring is longer too. BTW, did you install Wolff's striker spring too?

No I did not since it's an extra strength striker spring it could have an issue going into battery with a full mag. I also use Federal Match primers so I have no problems igniting primers even with a lower powered striker spring. The 16LB spring definitely feels to be more linear and closes the gun into battery much better than the factory spring. I like it so far but I have no shot the gun with my reloads so we will see how it performs.

How does an extra strength striker spring cause issues with a gun going in to battery with a full mag?

That striker spring is compressed on the backstroke of the slide, which has nothing to do with forward movement.

Don't take that the wrong way, I am just asking the question because maybe something else is involved I am missing?

The striker spring is actually not compressed on the rearward movement of the slide, it's compressed once the slide is moved forward from it's most rearward position and the striker is captured by the sear. The recoil spring is the active force that is causing the striker spring to become compressed. Under ready to fire conditions both of the springs are pushing the slide in opposite directions and if the recoil spring is providing too little force it can not allow the gun to go into battery and fire because the striker spring is overcoming the force of the recoil spring.

With that being said, I went ahead and put a 20% striker power reduction spring along with a reduced power striker return spring from PRP. Initially I had a PRP ultimate match trigger kit in the gun with a fully polished PRP sear and the pull was very smooth and at 3lb 10oz per my lyman guage. After the installation of the PRP striker and striker return spring the gun is currently right at a 3lb trigger pull. I can no longer feel the break of the trigger and it's exactly where I want it. The reduced power striker return spring will allow the striker and reduced power striker spring to carry more momentum and velocity to impact the primer which should alleviate any chance for a light strike.

ahh ok gotcha, thanks!

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don't know why, but in my case the wolff spring is longer too. BTW, did you install Wolff's striker spring too?

No I did not since it's an extra strength striker spring it could have an issue going into battery with a full mag. I also use Federal Match primers so I have no problems igniting primers even with a lower powered striker spring. The 16LB spring definitely feels to be more linear and closes the gun into battery much better than the factory spring. I like it so far but I have no shot the gun with my reloads so we will see how it performs.

How does an extra strength striker spring cause issues with a gun going in to battery with a full mag?

That striker spring is compressed on the backstroke of the slide, which has nothing to do with forward movement.

Don't take that the wrong way, I am just asking the question because maybe something else is involved I am missing?

The striker spring is actually not compressed on the rearward movement of the slide, it's compressed once the slide is moved forward from it's most rearward position and the striker is captured by the sear. The recoil spring is the active force that is causing the striker spring to become compressed. Under ready to fire conditions both of the springs are pushing the slide in opposite directions and if the recoil spring is providing too little force it can not allow the gun to go into battery and fire because the striker spring is overcoming the force of the recoil spring.

And, finding the right combination, to make an open XDm run, can drive you crazy. Actually, that should read; drove me crazy.

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So the final trigger pull of the XDm is a function of the trigger, sear, recoil, and striker springs? Did I miss any? I would have to verify my trigger pull since I have the PRP trigger and just replace the recoil and striker springs. Before spring replacement it was right at 3.5 lb.

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