JPG Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 I know this topic has been brought up ad nauseam, but I wanted to ask those who use Dremels to clean their comps if you've ever used the brass brush attachment. Maybe more specifically, why "shouldn't" I use the brass brush? To me, using the ball engraving tip can be a recipe for disaster as you can cut away some serious metal if you do it wrong. Since bore brushes are also made of brass, wouldn't the dremel brass brush be safer? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecil Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 I personally would not use the ball engraving tip.. I use the brass tip to clean the comp on my open guns after swabbing the comp ports with a q-tip using Slip 2000 ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoomy Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 I have no experience in cleaning comps but I have many hours of mold polishing under my belt. Brass is softer than steel but with the high speed of a Dremel, the stiffer nature of brass and the abrasives that might be in the soot left behind from burned powder all increase the chance of accelerated wear or at least change of the surface finish or loss of a coating on the comp. It would be better to use a soft nylon brush in a Dremel that has a speed adjustment Turn the speed all the way down to start. Try not to use a lot of pressure or linger too long in one spot especially in corners.The brass from the brush can also be deposited on the surface especially if higher speeds and pressure are used. Again, I do not have specific experience on comps but these are the practices I have used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 How about sonic cleaning comps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 How about sonic cleaning comps? You have to be careful to not loosen any loctite that will be on the comp threads. I try to not get too carried away with any solvents near the end of the barrel. The cleanest I have seen a comp is after glass bead blasting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EkuJustice Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) A hand brush is slow but can do decent but it's hard to get it clean all the way without blasting. "The dip" used for supressors may work as well Edited January 22, 2014 by EkuJustice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt P. Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Soda blast will return it to new condition again. If you want to, send your gun to http://grundhausergunworks.com/ He can do it for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G17 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Are you guys talking about cleaning the inside of the comp like inside of the chambers or just the outside? I have a 4 port that i bought used and it's leaded up pretty bad. Wasn't sure the best way to go about cleaning inside there. I might try the brass attachment on my dremel though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPG Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Are you guys talking about cleaning the inside of the comp like inside of the chambers or just the outside? I'm talking about cleaning the inside of the comp chambers. I've read on different threads that keeping the comp chambers 'unfouled' is a good thing - helps keep the comp running optimally. I've used the nylon brush on medium speeds and have had good results. There is still a little caking of powder/lead/whatever it is. I think I want to try that slip2000 before the brass brush. Let you know what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Try the Dillon case lube trick. It really does help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd7446 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Swabbing FrogLube paste in the chambers does a pretty good job of preventing build-up, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerassassin22 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 I soak my use a flat dental pick on mine and some Copper Solvent let it soak for about 20minutes comes off no issue with my comp every coming loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austex Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Try the Dillon case lube trick. It really does help What's the trick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my00wrx1 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 How about sonic cleaning comps?You have to be careful to not loosen any loctite that will be on the comp threads. I try to not get too carried away with any solvents near the end of the barrel. The cleanest I have seen a comp is after glass bead blasting. Has anyone had success with this. My sonic cleaner turned up this week and I haven't used it yet. I only have the brass cleaning solution so I was thinking about trying it using just water. Would it work ok with barells too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Try the Dillon case lube trick. It really does help What's the trick? Just carry a tiny, tiny spray bottle in your range bag. Before shooting spray a shot right into the ports on the comp. It basically just keeps carbon, filth and muck from sticking as bad. Makes it easier to clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauza45 Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 How about sonic cleaning comps?You have to be careful to not loosen any loctite that will be on the comp threads. I try to not get too carried away with any solvents near the end of the barrel. The cleanest I have seen a comp is after glass bead blasting. Has anyone had success with this. My sonic cleaner turned up this week and I haven't used it yet. I only have the brass cleaning solution so I was thinking about trying it using just water. Would it work ok with barells too? I use a sonic cleaner with 50/50 water and simple green. Works great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40S&W Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I use the brass brush in a Dremel Tool. Use slow speed and the comp cleans up just fine. I do this once a year in the off season. Just don't get carried away with the speed & pressure. To date no problems. Prior to shooting, I apply some Dillion Case Lube and it seems to keep buildup soft. I clean my guns after every time out shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthunter019 Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Dental picks will get it out also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerson0208 Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Very good suggestions. I will try cleaning mine tonight with plastic brush and see if I need to step up to brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joedirt Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I drop my barrel (trubor) slide and any other part that needs cleaning in a one gallon carburetor? throttle body dip. you can get It at any parts store. comes out shiny as a baby's bottom. dremmel out the lead with a small cone rasp, spray down with brake cleaner, lube and shoot. repeat. yes, I'm a auto technician.. no, the rasp will not cut the comp, it's not hard enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttownracer Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Brass brush is probably soft enough it is unlikely to change the comp profile other than any sharp edges. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaShot Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 try sitting the comp in a Can of Coke for a few hours, and then place it in your sonic cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandrooney Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 I use a dental pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonJeong Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Drop it into an ultrasonic cleaner for the powder residue. Then soak in sea foam (automotive) will get rid of all carbon deposit. Then leave it in mercury (extreme caution) which reacts with lead and chemically removes ALL lead. No brushing, like new after this process! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.McDevitt Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I know this topic has been brought up ad nauseam, but I wanted to ask those who use Dremels to clean their comps if you've ever used the brass brush attachment. Maybe more specifically, why "shouldn't" I use the brass brush? To me, using the ball engraving tip can be a recipe for disaster as you can cut away some serious metal if you do it wrong. Since bore brushes are also made of brass, wouldn't the dremel brass brush be safer? Thoughts? I'v been using the steel brush for years rather than the brass, they are hard to find so I order them on the net and buy 5-10 at a time. I would stay very far away from engraving tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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