Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Thinking about shooting classic


Recommended Posts

I feel like I should learn how to shoot with speedloaders in order to feel like a well rounded shooter. I've shot the moonclipped gun for a while and I am looking forward to the challenge. How do you dry-fire with dummy rounds going all over the place? It seems like I spend more time looking for my dummy rounds than I actually do practicing...I mean breaking the gun in. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rounds are going to go all over the place, there is no way around it. Practice with fired, dirty brass in the gun to simulate an actual extraction. Personally, I go a little too hard on my extraction rod but if you develop too weak of a stroke you won't clear your cases. There is no moonclip to help pull empty cases away and even one case not clearing the cylinder (because it's dirty, or has a small crack at the neck, or because you moved the gun upwards to fast, or whatever) is enough to piss in your cornflakes. If you try to do two dry-reloads in row, the second rep will not be realistic because the dummy rounds already in the gun will easily fall out.

Personally, I do two back to back reps. I put cases in the gun, I run the drill I'm doing and do my reload, then I stuff the spent cases back in and repeat. I pick everything up, reload my speedloaders, and repeat. I think you get better training time if you incorporate the reload into something else. There's too much time spent in between reps otherwise.

Make sure you don't angle the gun back up too quickly. Being sloppy with the motion can cause the extractor star to slip over a case head, and this is instant death. You have to hold the extractor rod back and ease the case out with your finger nails. The case is usually shoved in there pretty good. This eats up 5 - 10 seconds or more whenever it happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rounds are going to go all over the place, there is no way around it. Practice with fired, dirty brass in the gun to simulate an actual extraction. Personally, I go a little too hard on my extraction rod but if you develop too weak of a stroke you won't clear your cases. There is no moonclip to help pull empty cases away and even one case not clearing the cylinder (because it's dirty, or has a small crack at the neck, or because you moved the gun upwards to fast, or whatever) is enough to piss in your cornflakes. If you try to do two dry-reloads in row, the second rep will not be realistic because the dummy rounds already in the gun will easily fall out.

Personally, I do two back to back reps. I put cases in the gun, I run the drill I'm doing and do my reload, then I stuff the spent cases back in and repeat. I pick everything up, reload my speedloaders, and repeat. I think you get better training time if you incorporate the reload into something else. There's too much time spent in between reps otherwise.

Make sure you don't angle the gun back up too quickly. Being sloppy with the motion can cause the extractor star to slip over a case head, and this is instant death. You have to hold the extractor rod back and ease the case out with your finger nails. The case is usually shoved in there pretty good. This eats up 5 - 10 seconds or more whenever it happens.

I guess I will pick the rounds up one at a time and get some exercise out of it.

I hadn't thought of using spent cases to work on unloading. Thanks for the tip. I haven't experienced the case stuck in the chamber with the extractor past it, but I've gotten one or two cases out of the chamber, but under the extractor. It seems like they always make the cylinder spin so that they are towards the frame instead of away from the frame, so they would be easier to remove. So far I've done all my dry-firing with new brass. I'll shoot some and leave it dirty for dry firing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pat the rounder the better. You can probably get by with the round nose flat point Cowboy bullets.

That is what I am loading in my 40 S&W at the moment for my 610. They are the 180 grain bullets for the 38-40.

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've thought about shooting classic occasionally. Are round nose bullets as important as it is with moons? I've not found a true round nose bullet in .44.

Bear Creek makes a 240gr, moly coated round nose bullet. It's hard to get hold of the owner and it's hit and miss, if he has them in stock. They are a decent price though :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

343

Like was said above Dry Firing with Reloads would be the best practice. You can pick up on any problems easier when dry firing. So you get to practice on multiple things. Sight Picture, Trigger Control, Ejection, repetition Locating your speed loader on the belt, and the Reload. Where you live it is still nasty outside. So you might need to get creative practicing indoors. The good news is the weatherman says this below zero weather should be behind up after the first of the month.

We have had to cancel our last two ICORE Matchs due to weather. I am hoping for better weather in February.

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"I've thought about shooting classic occasionally. Are round nose bullets as important as it is with moons? I've not found a true round nose bullet in .44. "

Yes, it helps a lot, but you can still pull off some fast reloads with other bullet profiles. The rounder and pointier, the more wiggle room you have. I've even pulled off some pretty decent reloads with double end wadcutters, but the reload has to be spot on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...