Jeff9mmM&P Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 (edited) We make the above out of 2x4's.The sticks we use for the uprights are 1x2 furring strips. In 8ft. lengths, they cost about a buck each. We then cut them so that we have a 5 ft. pieces and 3ft. pieces. What does everybody else use for target stands? Pictures? Kyle, I've made a couple for personal use out of 5' of 1.5" diameter PVC and 4 PVC Ts. The bottom two legs filled with concrete. Edited August 31, 2009 by Jeff9mmM&P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 We make the above out of 2x4's.The sticks we use for the uprights are 1x2 furring strips. In 8ft. lengths, they cost about a buck each. We then cut them so that we have a 5 ft. pieces and 3ft. pieces. What does everybody else use for target stands? Pictures? Kyle, I've made a couple for personal use out of 5' of 1.5" diameter PVC and 4 PVC Ts. The bottom two legs filled with concrete. Nice, my experience with PVC doesn't bode well though. PVC pipe doesn't hold up well when you run it over with a Ford 4000 tractor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Bethell Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 We use a single "U" shaped PVC stand, inside diameter to hold furring strips. Bottom is width of the target. A 90 connector on each end, and the upright part is about 8 inches to insert strips. Two holes drilled in the cross bottom piece for stakes. Can be set upright, or tilted back to make the targets lean back for close up shots. Joints are done with short screws instead of PVC glue. If one part gets shot, or just breaks with time, pull two screws, replace only the damaged leg, and salvage the rest of the stand. An upright rack made of a top and bottom plywood square and 2x4's placed up and down sorta like this from the top X X stacks a bunch of them neatly. X Pretty cheap, and they seem to last along time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimmyZip Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Gary Marbut in Missoula, Montana makes some single leg stands using 1 x 1 x 1/8" angle and 1 x 2 tubes, with the tubes welded in the middle and holes at each end for landscape nails. Single leg design allows mutiple target configurations easier than an 'H' type stand. These are stackable by placing the 2 tubes together and storing them between the studs in the equipment shed. These are commercial stands and Marbut also manufactures swingers & turners.Come to the Area 1 match in June and I will be happy to present you to the manufacturer. The stands I make are similar except that I use 1 1/2 x 1 1/2/ It is a bit sturdier and can be used to lever out the stakes if you pull one side first. I also discovered that you could purchase a single 10 ft 2x4 and make far more of the furring strips on a table saw for the same price. It is almost ridiculous to buy the strips if you have a table saw. If you don't then your SOL and have to but the strips. I made enough in 30 minutes on a saw though to last me a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 (edited) We build two types of target stands. 1) The standard H-Brace square tubing stands with the upright turned 45 degrees, which allows for a smaller tubing and snug stake fit. This stand is great for level ground, but is tough to store. 2) The second type is a rebar-rectangular tubing combination that is driven in the ground. It will work with one leg or two driven into the ground and is great for uneven terrain, which we have lots of! (See photos) These work really well because of their flexibility, ease of storage, ease of construction (3 pieces & 2 welds), application to any terrain and they even drive through rocks if you can find a crease! They are by far my favorite. Cheers, Kyle Edited February 15, 2010 by DocMcG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrysuperhawk Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 (edited) My stands are a bit different, but when I was building them, I was in a position where I had to haul EVERYTHING from my house to the range in the back of my truck for every match, so size was more of a concern than pure price. It requires: 2x1/4 flat steel x 18", with holes in the center and one end 2x1/4 flat steel x 18", with a hole in the center 2 each 1x2 11ga square tube x 6" long 1 each 1/2" x 1" bolt, 2 washers and a nylon lock nut. grease Staple 1x2 lath to the edges of an ipsc target, even with the edges. place the 2 square tubes on the ends and hold the single hole flat up centered on the 2 legs. The square tube should overlap a bit, [this lets water out]. Mark where the square tube lines up. Weld the 2 pieces square tube to the flat steel, then bolt the other flat making an X. Don't make the bolt too tight, you should be able to unfold this without tools. 1 washer goes between the flats and grease goes there too. I can fit a metric shit ton of these into a milk crate [more than I can pick up, in one instance...LOL] and they are cheap: 25' of 11ga 1x2 = $50 = ~25 targets 80' of 1/4x2 flat = $100 = ~25 targets + $25 for bolts and washers you can have 25 target stands for around $7 each. Since they are so low, they almost never get shot.. Edited February 16, 2010 by barrysuperhawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Heiter Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Nothing fancy about the design and we didn't come up with it but they work well and have for years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Nothing fancy about the design and we didn't come up with it but they work well and have for years. Nice! Super Simple! I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Nothing fancy about the design and we didn't come up with it but they work well and have for years. Gt Targets makes something similar. http://www.gttargets.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_32 Theirs has a strip of steel in the center that is connected by a center bolt. Twist it out to form a "cross +" for stability. Twist if back in flush to store. Neat idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hefta Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 USPSA has a diagram for target stands. It is wrong. Here is what it should look like: Just made 50 of these for my club, about $3 each and they work just great, we store them inside so I made them out of regular construction lumber. One 7' 2x4, some 3" screws and a couple of spacers is all you need. Thanks for the link Flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_P Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I built a couple of these myself for practice: I can use 1x3 strapping in the outside verticals to hold USPSA targets, or I can use a 2x4 in the center post to hold my steel plates from GT Targets. They seem to work pretty well, but are a bit over-built I think. I probably didn't need to use tubing for all the legs, I could have gotten away with flat bar. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Heiter Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Nothing fancy about the design and we didn't come up with it but they work well and have for years. Gt Targets makes something similar. http://www.gttargets.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_32 Theirs has a strip of steel in the center that is connected by a center bolt. Twist it out to form a "cross +" for stability. Twist if back in flush to store. Neat idea. We anchor them with 6" or 8" landscape spike depending on how hard the ground is that day and they are pretty stable. You can also turn one of these into a lay back simply by angling the target stand as you're driving in the spikes. I'll have to get a picture of the hammers we made for driving and pulling the spikes to post too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmdCtzn Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Its interesting that most of you turn your slats with the wide side facing the shooter, while I have always turned my slats so that the narrow side faces the shooter. I just figured it had less of a chance of getting hit with the small face toward the shooter. Maybe I've been wrong, but its worked great for the last twenty or so years! So, who's right? Wide side toward shooter, or narrow side toward shooter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Nothing fancy about the design and we didn't come up with it but they work well and have for years. Gt Targets makes something similar. http://www.gttargets.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_32 Theirs has a strip of steel in the center that is connected by a center bolt. Twist it out to form a "cross +" for stability. Twist if back in flush to store. Neat idea. They're great for portability, but on a windy day, they're prone to falling over.... H-stands are the bomb for club matches. H-stands made out of metal tend to be lighter, and I can carry more of them in a single trip, than if they're made out of 2x4s.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 I built a couple of these myself for practice: I can use 1x3 strapping in the outside verticals to hold USPSA targets, or I can use a 2x4 in the center post to hold my steel plates from GT Targets. They seem to work pretty well, but are a bit over-built I think. I probably didn't need to use tubing for all the legs, I could have gotten away with flat bar. Steve That's a cool idea for all-in-one practice stands... Get 5 of those and there's not much you couldn't practice for.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Its interesting that most of you turn your slats with the wide side facing the shooter, while I have always turned my slats so that the narrow side faces the shooter. I just figured it had less of a chance of getting hit with the small face toward the shooter. Maybe I've been wrong, but its worked great for the last twenty or so years! So, who's right? Wide side toward shooter, or narrow side toward shooter? We build our stands with the wide side toward the shooter -- it's easier to drive staples in, it's easier if you need to put targets touching side-by-side as some of the classifiers call for (we staple the first target to a complete stand, using only half of the stick width on the side where it meets the second target; then staple the other target there, and finally staple the free side of the second target to a stick located in the second target stand. 2 stands, three sticks, and targets whose borders can touch...), and the wood seems to last longer as it typically takes multiple rounds to break the stick.... Sticks are consumables... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gohuskers Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 I built a couple of these myself for practice: I can use 1x3 strapping in the outside verticals to hold USPSA targets, or I can use a 2x4 in the center post to hold my steel plates from GT Targets. They seem to work pretty well, but are a bit over-built I think. I probably didn't need to use tubing for all the legs, I could have gotten away with flat bar. Steve That's a cool idea for all-in-one practice stands... Get 5 of those and there's not much you couldn't practice for.... Yeah I build the same ones myself - with a cap on top of a 2x4 to hold steel. they hold up really well and the weight generally means you wont have to stake them even when it's windy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 I have made stands in every variety I can think of. Doubles, singles, X stands, H stands, MONSTER stands, you name it..... and the one I like the best for clubs is the X stand. Quick to setup, 2 stakes and you're done. For personal use, I like my folding H. They're stable, heavy enough to not need stakes and collapse quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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