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G17 light strikes primers or springs


Quag

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I know this has been gone over before. I reload 9mm low PF. Due to the previous shortages I have a variety of primers (I bought what I could get). I am now reloading with Win SP mag primers. Using 231 powder. I recently put in a drop in trigger group from Glocktriggers.com I am using the 4 lb striker spring which should give a 2lb trigger pull. I really like the feel and the crisp brake.

At practice today I had a lot of light strikes. I figured out I was not letting the trigger reset fully and was able to eliminate most of the light strikes by letting the trigger fully reset but I still had a few. I then switched to some Atlanta Arms remanufactured ammo (low PF ammo) and had no light strikes at all over about 20 rounds. I use the Atlanta arms ammo for matches.

Alos I would get no light strikes using my reloads when firing slowly. I had no light strikes in over 30 rds doing an accuracy drill. I seem to get them only when I am speeding up doing speed drills. What I don't like is modifying my trigger pull for one ammo vs another. My gut tells me this is a bad practice.

Any ideas I have heard Federal Match Primers is the way to go, I don't think it is the springs or I would get LS with all of the ammo.

Thoughts?

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The trigger bar cruciform keeps the striker held at the rear of it travel in reset. if the trigger resets its rest. letting it fully reset as you put it only allows tension of the compressed striker spring to decompress and you have to take that slack again when depressing the trigger until the striker sear/drop leg drops off the cruciform. Get yourself an extended striker to solve the issue.

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Get yourself an extended striker to solve the issue.

I was wondering about that, I did not know they made them. However its odd the Atlanta Arms ammo never has a light strike.

Thanks I'll look into it

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Get yourself an extended striker to solve the issue.

I was wondering about that, I did not know they made them. However its odd the Atlanta Arms ammo never has a light strike.

Thanks I'll look into it

AA&A is a quality ammo manufacture that is geared for competition and my assumption is (not positive) they are using Federal Primers. The Glockworx and Jäger Ext tip strikers are worth their weight for any reloader for GLOCK and even for SS shooters getting one as well.

My triggers set off Tula, Win, and CCI no issues at all.

Edited by dskinsler83
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In a Glock you are setting yourself up for failure by running a light striker spring without running an lengthened and lightened striker. WSPM are harder than the average primer and I'm certain AAA is using something softer.

Do a search for Glock light strikes and you will see this has be discussed at length a dozen times.

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Get yourself an extended striker to solve the issue.

I was wondering about that, I did not know they made them. However its odd the Atlanta Arms ammo never has a light strike.

Thanks I'll look into it

AA&A is a quality ammo manufacture that is geared for competition and my assumption is (not positive) they are using Federal Primers. The Glockworx and Jäger Ext tip strikers are worth their weight for any reloader for GLOCK and even for SS shooters getting one as well.

My triggers set off Tula, Win, and CCI no issues at all.

Get yourself an extended striker to solve the issue.

I was wondering about that, I did not know they made them. However its odd the Atlanta Arms ammo never has a light strike.

Thanks I'll look into it

AA&A is a quality ammo manufacture that is geared for competition and my assumption is (not positive) they are using Federal Primers. The Glockworx and Jäger Ext tip strikers are worth their weight for any reloader for GLOCK and even for SS shooters getting one as well.

My triggers set off Tula, Win, and CCI no issues at all.

Any advice on the type of extended striker Jager or Zev? I noticed some negative comments on the Jagers. I think that will solve my LS issue. With the AA&A remanufactured ammo I don't think I have had a light strike in over a 3000 rds. My reloads not so much. The primers on AA&A are bronze color like Win and Federal. I bet they are federal.

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There are lots of threads about light strikes here, just got to dig a little to find em :)

My own experience has been that the reduced power striker spring=light strikes on factory ammo if used with a stock striker. One thing you don't see posted about very much is that a certain setup in one Glock may not work well at all in another, even same model same gen etc.

One area that can cause problems, and did for me, is the plastic channel liner. That's got to be über clean. No oil at all. I swab the striker channel with alcohol and make sure it's dry and clean. Also, if you pull it out you're supposed to toss it and use a new one. Those plastic parts wear, they are cheap, so replace them and keep them fresh.

My setup right now on a gen2 G17 has overcome the light strike issues and is 100% since my last change, but it is still evolving. I have one or two more options to explore until I settle on what I want the trigger to feel like for good.

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My setup right now on a gen2 G17 has overcome the light strike issues and is 100% since my last change, but it is still evolving. I have one or two more options to explore until I settle on what I want the trigger to feel like for good.

I've got a hybrid G17. Here in Mass we cannot buy a Glock manufctured after Oct 1998. That means forget about all Gen 4s and most Gen 3s. My Gen 2 reciever broke and Glock replaced it with Gen 3 reciever. So I have gen2 slide. I will clean that plastic channel liner I did not pay much attention to it. My light stikes happens only on my reloads not my match ammo (AA&A). I just bought an extended stricker based on advice in this spring. I'm pretty sure that will solve the issue. I also will be on the look out for some Federal Match Primers.

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My setup right now on a gen2 G17 has overcome the light strike issues and is 100% since my last change, but it is still evolving. I have one or two more options to explore until I settle on what I want the trigger to feel like for good.

I've got a hybrid G17. Here in Mass we cannot buy a Glock manufctured after Oct 1998. That means forget about all Gen 4s and most Gen 3s. My Gen 2 reciever broke and Glock replaced it with Gen 3 reciever. So I have gen2 slide. I will clean that plastic channel liner I did not pay much attention to it. My light stikes happens only on my reloads not my match ammo (AA&A). I just bought an extended stricker based on advice in this spring. I'm pretty sure that will solve the issue. I also will be on the look out for some Federal Match Primers.

You won't need to pay the extra for Match primers. Just get some federal SP

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Sarge gives you good advice. It's all ammo when you come down to it. Match, spec, factory, reman whatever you want to call it, it really boils down to what components were used to make said ammo.

That plastic channel liner plays a crucial part of the firing process. If you've forgotten about it, it's most likely worn. Out of round or maybe it's wiggling around in the channel is not good. I think also the spacer that the striker sits in is equally important, if the hole the striker sits in is wobbled out even a small amount the striker can wobble around in there too. Not good! The spring cups wear also, I mean all this stuff is just plastic, doesn't take wear like metal pieces will. The less drag you can get in that channel the better, it allows the striker to fly home with as much force as possible, this is the idea behind the use of the maritime spring cups instead of the OEM ones. Less rubbing :)

FWIW, I am using the GlockWorx/Zev v4 SS extended and lightened striker with a reduced spring, 100% so far on a couple different brands of factory ammo.

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I bought a Zev extended striker thanks to the guys replying to this thread. I'll also be on the look out for federal primers.

I should reiterate when I was shooting my G17 with production parts I had no light stikes that I could remember. So I'm pretty sure its not my reloading technique or parts.

Also when I shoot my Walther P99QA with my reloads I have no light strikes

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So far I like the Zev striker. Check this out. Gun was bought, by my father, in 1989 or 1990 I can't remember at the moment which year, this striker was in there the whole time. The 25 year old striker!! I swapped springs and noticed it was all chewed up. Tough little part to survive that long. Gun was used fairly regularly.

F3E482AF-8BE0-48D4-B0DF-FE28D15AFE3D.png

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This gun had the liner, it was severely worn. Uh maybe I'm missing something, but isn't that liner sort of important? I mean I guess it isn't if yours works without it??? Any Certified GA's here like to chime in on that? Seems like the spring cup/spring/striker assembly would just wallow like weenie down a hallway without that liner?

This gun began light striking after I changed the spring to reduced power and installed the ghost rocket. If you look closely you can see a gnarly gash in the machined edge/corner of the striker. I had never seen a new striker so didn't quickly notice that it shouldn't be like that. Also you can see the wear on the tip, it has a fairly pronounced round profile.

The trigger feels phenomenal on this gun now, 25 years of use really smooths things out! I couldn't believe the change in break after I tuned the ghost rocket. The plunger/striker safety is wonderfully smooth and quite literally floats in it's hole. Added stainless guide rod and 15lb spring plus new trigger spring and new depressor spring and since then this pistol is 100% on WWB, federal red box and Aguila124. Going to test some Reman from a local-ish place here soon.

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I agree but I have been shooting without it, and getting good results on factory ammo, not so much on my reloads. I'll have to route around in by tool box to see if I have one

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Get yourself an extended striker to solve the issue.

I also have a glocktriggers.com trigger and was using the 4# striker spring with a zev skeletonized/extended striker. I still got light strikers here and there with my CCI primers.

Switching to a 4.5# spring solved my issue.

So switching to an extended striker doesn't necessarily solve all issues.

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This gun began light striking after I changed the spring to reduced power and installed the ghost rocket. If you look closely you can see a gnarly gash in the machined edge/corner of the striker. I had never seen a new striker so didn't quickly notice that it shouldn't be like that. Also you can see the wear on the tip, it has a fairly pronounced round profile.

The beat up tip end of the striker means it is banging into the firing pin safety blocking plunger as it fires. This reduces strike energy and creates light strikes.

That plunger is raised by the bump on top of the trigger bar. Aftermarket disconnectors and trigger parts change the engle of the trigger bar and also the point where it releases the striker, which can lead to the striker firing before the firing pin plunger is fully raised.

I went through this same thing on my G35, eventually ended up removing the plunger because it is such a PITA. But if you see impact damage on the tip of the striker, you can and probably will have light strikes because it is banging into the plunger.

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Removing it sounds like a horrible idea to me. Not only would it clearly disbar me from production division but it would also quite possibly make me a star someday. My own YouTube Classic titled omg I just shot myself doesn't sound too fun though. YMMV!

I'm pretty sure the striker was damaged by striking debris in the channel other than the plunger. The little hole that debris/water can flow out of the channel through was clogged entirely. Maybe this hole has a name I don't know for sure, it's in the underside of the slide directly behind the breach face on the opposite side of ejection port directly under the striker tip right before it protrudes from the breach face. I am assuming it is a path for crap that gets in to find its way out of the channel? Keep in mind this part is 25 years old...

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