datsthat Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 Update: No light strikes issues with the following factory ammo: Federal, Fiocci, Freedom Munitions & Blaser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffWard Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 Maybe since my slide got Ionbonded, the striker channel is not not in spec? THIS. JeffWard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 I hate to take this stance, but modifying firearms is not like snapping Lego pieces together where no matter what parts you "Snap Together" they should magically work. When modifying firearms you need to have a solid understanding of how it functions and the ability to troubleshoot issues when it does not work. If you lack functional or troubleshooting skills on your firearm then you should leave the modifying to someone who does have those skills. The internet forum "Help me out" pleads do not count either. If you want to learn how to do this stuff on your own, then you are in for a lot of trial and error, frustration, and wasted Time + Money. Alternately you could take some armorer courses for your specific firearm or gunsmithing classes. People need to put modifying guns into perspective to pretty much everything else in life. For example, if you swapped the Transmission, Engine and then added a lift kit to your truck all by yourself the chances of that ending up functionally correct are not very probable. This is especially true if you are not already a mechanic and have at least a basic understanding of wrenching on a vehicle. Working on guns is really not much different than working on cars. You need to know what you are doing or you can't expect to produce a good result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 The M&P armorer's course is more about restoring stuff to factory spec. I'm definitely in favor of only changing one thing at a time, especially if it's something major. So was it just an out of spec striker channel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 I hate to take this stance, but modifying firearms is not like snapping Lego pieces together where no matter what parts you "Snap Together" they should magically work. When modifying firearms you need to have a solid understanding of how it functions and the ability to troubleshoot issues when it does not work. If you lack functional or troubleshooting skills on your firearm then you should leave the modifying to someone who does have those skills. The internet forum "Help me out" pleads do not count either. If you want to learn how to do this stuff on your own, then you are in for a lot of trial and error, frustration, and wasted Time + Money. Alternately you could take some armorer courses for your specific firearm or gunsmithing classes. People need to put modifying guns into perspective to pretty much everything else in life. For example, if you swapped the Transmission, Engine and then added a lift kit to your truck all by yourself the chances of that ending up functionally correct are not very probable. This is especially true if you are not already a mechanic and have at least a basic understanding of wrenching on a vehicle. Working on guns is really not much different than working on cars. You need to know what you are doing or you can't expect to produce a good result. Thank you for chimming in Cha-lee. I have read a lot of your threads and value your feedback along with a lot of other members here. I have to somewhat disagree with you. I have never taken any formal training on the art of gunsmithing. However, I am confident in my troubleshooting skills to get the job done. The only time I have ever had to send anything off was b/c I didn't have the resources to do it myself such as light strike issues and trimming the beaver tail down. I have learned more about M&Ps, glocks, ARs, AKs, bolt & semi-auto rifle by literally getting my hands dirtly. Yes, the downside is a lot of time and money, but the rewards of solving an issue is worth it to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fdc1999 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Found my problem. When I pulled the comp and put in the stock spring, everything ran fine. I then dropped in the lighter spring, and noticed some slight hangup as the barrel slid against the face of the block. It seems the cerakote is wearing off there, and the rough spot is just enough to cause problems with the lighter spring when cold. Would it be safe to polish this up with some 600grit paper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) Update: No light strikes issues with the following factory ammo: Federal, Fiocci, Freedom Munitions & Blaser. Update: Light strikes are back. I think I don't think they were ever fixed. Just purcahsed a new stripped slide (thanks crossgun). I will install the parts from my current slide into new slide to hopefuly issolate the root cause. While I am waiting for my new slide, I purchased a 31 Netwon/7lb extra power striker spring from rockyourgock. This is my last attempt. If this doesn't help or fix it, then its off to apex Edited January 9, 2014 by datsthat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Wow, the 7lb striker spring did the trick. I shot 250 sucessfull rounds (washougal). Now I have a spare new stripped slide (purchased to fix light strikes). I have not been this happy since the day I got my machined slide in the mail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger? I am sure it does increase slightly, but I didn't even notice the extra weight b/c I was so happy that it went "bang". Currently I have a factory trigger spring, FSS sear spring, 11lb recoil spring & 7lb striker spring. I may change to a heavier recoil spring if I run into any issues. I'll be shoooting many rounds soon as I have a class near end of this month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneyb Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger? I am sure it does increase slightly, but I didn't even notice the extra weight b/c I was so happy that it went "bang". Currently I have a factory trigger spring, FSS sear spring, 11lb recoil spring & 7lb striker spring. I may change to a heavier recoil spring if I run into any issues. I'll be shoooting many rounds soon as I have a class near end of this month. Wow! I'm surprised this even stays in battery. Mine is set up with competition striker spring and 13 lb recoil spring. I've never tried an 11 lb one, but might have to try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger? I am sure it does increase slightly, but I didn't even notice the extra weight b/c I was so happy that it went "bang". Currently I have a factory trigger spring, FSS sear spring, 11lb recoil spring & 7lb striker spring. I may change to a heavier recoil spring if I run into any issues. I'll be shoooting many rounds soon as I have a class near end of this month. Wow! I'm surprised this even stays in battery. Mine is set up with competition striker spring and 13 lb recoil spring. I've never tried an 11 lb one, but might have to try it. It doesn't stay in battery w/ much force. It seems like I can stare at it and it will slightly move out of battery. I will change to either a 13 or 15ib recoil spring.....it all depends on which is more reliable. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy the felt recoil with a 11lb spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger? I am sure it does increase slightly, but I didn't even notice the extra weight b/c I was so happy that it went "bang". Currently I have a factory trigger spring, FSS sear spring, 11lb recoil spring & 7lb striker spring. I may change to a heavier recoil spring if I run into any issues. I'll be shoooting many rounds soon as I have a class near end of this month. Wow! I'm surprised this even stays in battery. Mine is set up with competition striker spring and 13 lb recoil spring. I've never tried an 11 lb one, but might have to try it. It doesn't stay in battery w/ much force. It seems like I can stare at it and it will slightly move out of battery. I will change to either a 13 or 15ib recoil spring.....it all depends on which is more reliable. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy the felt recoil with a 11lb spring. Do yourself a favor and learn to like a 13 lb spring. If you can stare at the gun and have it come out of battery you are inviting an OOB event. The striker spring and recoil spring work against each other. That heavy striker spring and an ultra light recoil spring are really not getting along well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Best wat to solve this issue, sell me you lightened slide and get you a stock one. Just Saying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsthat Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Best wat to solve this issue, sell me you lightened slide and get you a stock one. Just Saying Ken, Funny you said that b/c I did purchase another stripped slide with the intentions of replacing as a fix and it just arrived . I am sure you can fit different optic but you may need to do some minor machinining or you buy my stripped slide + MRDS & shroud. PM me if you are serious. Edited January 15, 2014 by datsthat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor Murphy Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 I would also advise running a 13lb recoil spring as opposed to the 11lb spring for the reasons mentioned above. I think once you start putting more rounds on that 11lb spring you may have some problems with the gun coming out of battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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