After Market Triggers

[Quag]

I live in the wonderful Peoples Republic of Mass. We cannot buy Glocks from a FFL manufactured after 1998. So we have to be innovative with our Glocks. I have a G17 gen2 that's in good shape and I use it for IDPA and USPSA (SSP or production divisions). I do not use it for carry. There was some damage to the polymer grip near the mag well and I sent it Glock for refurbishing and they put a new Gen 3 receiver on the bottom with new factory parts. (Oh happy day) I love the grip much more than the Gen 2 which I had problems with and its become my first choice for my matches. The problem is they replaced it with factory parts and upgraded the weight on the trigger to 5.5 plus and I do not like the feel and pull of the trigger for competition. I am considering an aftermarket drop in trigger group and I am looking at Glocktriggers.com (vogel trigger). I talked to the owner and I like what I hear. I know there are others out there.

Any of you guys have any experience with this aftermarket product or others.

Thanks

PS and one day I'm going to move to a free state so I can buy a G34 Gen 4 or a CZ or whatever. But for now I've got what I got and I kind of like tinkering with my Gen2/Gen3 and making the best of it.

[dskinsler83]

I like Zev trigger bars and kits and strikers and I also use TAran Tactical connector and springs too

[98sr20ve]

I live in the wonderful Peoples Republic of Mass. We cannot buy Glocks from a FFL manufactured after 1998. So we have to be innovative with our Glocks. I have a G17 gen2 that's in good shape and I use it for IDPA and USPSA (SSP or production divisions). I do not use it for carry. There was some damage to the polymer grip near the mag well and I sent it Glock for refurbishing and they put a new Gen 3 receiver on the bottom with new factory parts. (Oh happy day) I love the grip much more than the Gen 2 which I had problems with and its become my first choice for my matches. The problem is they replaced it with factory parts and upgraded the weight on the trigger to 5.5 plus and I do not like the feel and pull of the trigger for competition. I am considering an aftermarket drop in trigger group and I am looking at Glocktriggers.com (vogel trigger). I talked to the owner and I like what I hear. I know there are others out there.

Any of you guys have any experience with this aftermarket product or others.

Thanks

PS and one day I'm going to move to a free state so I can buy a G34 Gen 4 or a CZ or whatever. But for now I've got what I got and I kind of like tinkering with my Gen2/Gen3 and making the best of it.

Personally, I like the Glock "-" (minus) connector wiith the Wollf Competition Spring kit. Polish it up and start shooting. I am sure there are things that may be s smidge better but at a substantial increase in cost. I don't feel the trigger as a negative when I am shooting.

[blopez50]

I figured that I'd start by polishing parts and a glockworx spring kit. It was cheap and I've been REALLY happy with my choice.

You may want to give it a try before dropping big money on one of the others.

[CHLChris]

Congratulations on your plans to move to Free America! I've been upgrading my G35 Gen4 and am discovering that the aftermarket support for Gen4 is still a little hit and miss, especially in triggers, recoil equipment and grip stuff like magwells, weights, and mag releases. I would seriously consider looking at the G34 Gen3, which they are still selling.

BTW, I just installed a Zev Fulcrum complete trigger kit (had to use the trigger housing of my own, though, because it was a Gen3 set) and some assorted springs in the slide. I really like the feel, but haven't shot it yet.

Edited November 27, 2013 by CHLChris

[JBP55]

All trigger kits available for gen 3 Glocks are available for gen 4 Glocks and they will interchange as long as you use the correct trigger housing.

Skip the Gen 3 and go with the enhanced Gen 4.

[G17]

I like Zev's Ultimate kit a lot.

You can still make a sweet trigger for a lot less if you prefer to not spend all of that money. This is what i did on one of my 17's and i like it a lot.

Zev V4 Connector

Zev TiT Plunger w/ light spring

#4 Striker Spring

#6 Trig Spring

Jager Striker (i got used)

I cut and fit a plastic washer to the rear of the trig housing to block over travel

I cut and fit a plastic washer to the front of the trig housing to take up pre travel

The last 2 steps require a bit of patience and some tuning to get what you want but ultimately do a great job.

I deleted that bump on my Gen 4 Trig Bar.

Stoned and polished all contacting surfaces

Cut the plastic notch on the trigger safety to ensure it still works after taking up pre travel.

It takes just a hair under 2.5#'s to pull the trigger on the gauge. It's smooth with virtually no pre/over travel while all the safeties are still being utilized. That setup cost me about $120 versus the close to $300 you would pay for the Ultimate kit. I like it because i too am a tinkerer and i spent a fair amount of time getting it right, but it was worth it.

Edited November 27, 2013 by G17

[Steven420]

That titanium plunger is junk, but otherwise I set my first open 22 up like that and it was the best trigger I ever had. Everything since then has been Zev ultimate kits and while still great triggers leave something to be desired.

[G17]

That titanium plunger is junk, but otherwise I set my first open 22 up like that and it was the best trigger I ever had. Everything since then has been Zev ultimate kits and while still great triggers leave something to be desired.

Ya, you are right. For 30 bucks you'd think it wouldn't destroy itself so quickly. I use it because i just like the fact that it weighs 1/2 of was the standard plunger weighs. After about 5,000 rounds its showing some pretty bad peening. It still works fine though. When the time comes that i feel that it's no longer safety to use in my gun i may or may not replace it. Still debating. Waiting to see how much time i get out of it.

[dskinsler83]

You can get the SS version from Zev

[CHLChris]

The SS version comes with the Zev kits now...

[emjei]

I like Zev's Ultimate kit a lot.

You can still make a sweet trigger for a lot less if you prefer to not spend all of that money. This is what i did on one of my 17's and i like it a lot.

Zev V4 Connector

Zev TiT Plunger w/ light spring

#4 Striker Spring

#6 Trig Spring

Jager Striker (i got used)

I cut and fit a plastic washer to the rear of the trig housing to block over travel

I cut and fit a plastic washer to the front of the trig housing to take up pre travel

The last 2 steps require a bit of patience and some tuning to get what you want but ultimately do a great job.

I deleted that bump on my Gen 4 Trig Bar.

Stoned and polished all contacting surfaces

Cut the plastic notch on the trigger safety to ensure it still works after taking up pre travel.

It takes just a hair under 2.5#'s to pull the trigger on the gauge. It's smooth with virtually no pre/over travel while all the safeties are still being utilized. That setup cost me about $120 versus the close to $300 you would pay for the Ultimate kit. I like it because i too am a tinkerer and i spent a fair amount of time getting it right, but it was worth it.

Can you provide more details about how to do the PreTravel fix ??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[JBP55]

Glockworx, McGlock, Johnny Glocks and others offer a trigger with set screws in the trigger shoe in order to adjust the pre travel and over travel.

Vanek, Glocktriggers and others can be adjusted with set screws in the trigger housing.

[G17]

I like Zev's Ultimate kit a lot.

You can still make a sweet trigger for a lot less if you prefer to not spend all of that money. This is what i did on one of my 17's and i like it a lot.

Zev V4 Connector

Zev TiT Plunger w/ light spring

#4 Striker Spring

#6 Trig Spring

Jager Striker (i got used)

I cut and fit a plastic washer to the rear of the trig housing to block over travel

I cut and fit a plastic washer to the front of the trig housing to take up pre travel

The last 2 steps require a bit of patience and some tuning to get what you want but ultimately do a great job.

I deleted that bump on my Gen 4 Trig Bar.

Stoned and polished all contacting surfaces

Cut the plastic notch on the trigger safety to ensure it still works after taking up pre travel.

It takes just a hair under 2.5#'s to pull the trigger on the gauge. It's smooth with virtually no pre/over travel while all the safeties are still being utilized. That setup cost me about $120 versus the close to $300 you would pay for the Ultimate kit. I like it because i too am a tinkerer and i spent a fair amount of time getting it right, but it was worth it.

Can you provide more details about how to do the PreTravel fix ??

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

Theres not too many details really. I went to the store and bought some nylon washers. Took a look at the housing. The washer has to go in the front top section up passed that little ramp. I'm not sure if you understand what i mean by that but it's a pretty small area. I first filed it height wise so that it would fit in there snug. Then i basically just had to assemble and see where it was at, take apart, sand some more down. I like it because it covers the full area and is slick so it's not going to be something that makes the action rough or anything. Yes most aftermarket housings use a set screw so you can adjust. As i mentioned this is just the DIY approach. It works the same way as the set screw except you don't have the ability to adjust it other then sanding it down more. I'm happy with Zev's ultimate kit. But when i initially started i though why spend 25 bucks on literally the same housing i already have but with a screw in it, when i can do it myself.

Also, the super backwoods approach which will still give you the same effect and is easier. With an Xacto knife cut a piece of rubber from an old sandal, preferably one with thick, dense rubber, thats maybe a few cm's wide and 1/2 inch long. Stuff that puppy down in the diaganol gap between the front of the trig cruciform and trig housing. You will know if the strip is too big because the gun won't reset itself. In that case trim the width of the rubber foam down a little. This is actually the first thing i did to take up pre travel, lol, and damn if it didn't work. I ran the gun for maybe a few thousand rounds before i decided to take the time to file down the nylon washer instead. CLP kept soaking into the rubber. I'm not telling you to do either of these mods i'm just saying it's what i tried and it gives the same effect. It is the responsibility of the Glocker to make sure all safeties are still functional.

If you take up too much pre travel you will lose the trigger safety and the safety plunger will stay in the up position. I used my xacto to make a notch on the trigger safety tab so that it still activates when the gun resets. Also i think i'v found a good way to determine whether your safe plunger is in the up position. Yes you could look down into the magwell and look at it but its hard to tell. With the trigger being in the fired position you can shake the gun front to back and hear the strike bounce back and forth. Don't rack the slide but pull the trigger with your support hand fingers forward to the position that it would be in if it was reset and shake it front to back again, you can hear the strike get blocked by the safety plunger.

Edited November 29, 2013 by G17

[emjei]

Thanks for the info.....back to original thread.... :-)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[arcangel167]

I'm running a Zev trigger in my G35 and a Pyramid in my G22. So far I like the Zev better but still need to tweek the Pyramid a little more. I'll supply more feedback after my next trip to the range.

[bigtimelarry]

Vanek Classic hands down..

[Ken_Bird]

If your wanting the best, and do not mind spending some $$$ check out the Salient Teir 1 package.

Its truly unbelievable.

[Quag]

I'm the OP, thanks for the info. Its clear to me there are two ways to go 1) al a carte- i.e. replace part by part do you own polishing and filing and jury rig parts; costs probably less than $50 and you better know what you are doing, 2) Buy a trigger "group", more expensive i.e. $130 to $200 but easier to install, drop the group in yourself or have an armorer do it.

I see plus and minus of both approaches. I do like tinkering and I can break down my guns to a certain extent but I draw the line at some point. I have gotten messed up using internet advice. I have never taken a armorer course. But I will. I have been shooting 1 year and I think for this step I'm going to take option 2. I can drop the group in but I'm very hesitant to mess around with option 1 based on my skills and my tools.

I may be wrong but I figure with option 2 most of these vendors know a lot more than I do and they have researched and tried a variety of combinations before they came up with their product. I also need to make sure what ever I get is acceptable for IDPA SSP and USPSA Production.

Thx

[warpspeed]

I live in the wonderful Peoples Republic of Mass. We cannot buy Glocks from a FFL manufactured after 1998. So we have to be innovative with our Glocks. I have a G17 gen2 that's in good shape and I use it for IDPA and USPSA (SSP or production divisions). I do not use it for carry. There was some damage to the polymer grip near the mag well and I sent it Glock for refurbishing and they put a new Gen 3 receiver on the bottom with new factory parts. (Oh happy day) I love the grip much more than the Gen 2 which I had problems with and its become my first choice for my matches. The problem is they replaced it with factory parts and upgraded the weight on the trigger to 5.5 plus and I do not like the feel and pull of the trigger for competition. I am considering an aftermarket drop in trigger group and I am looking at Glocktriggers.com (vogel trigger). I talked to the owner and I like what I hear. I know there are others out there.

Any of you guys have any experience with this aftermarket product or others.

Thanks

PS and one day I'm going to move to a free state so I can buy a G34 Gen 4 or a CZ or whatever. But for now I've got what I got and I kind of like tinkering with my Gen2/Gen3 and making the best of it.

After messing around with all the different homebrew trigger jobs, I went with the Glocktriggers.com drop in Edge trigger and absolutley love it.

It dropped in and worked from the first trigger pull. I can't imagine their Vogel version being any different. I think you will be happy.

Now, that said, there are others out there who make a good aftermarket trigger. I have no experience with them but I'm sure there are those who will say they are great and wonderful and full of sunshine. i just got tired of trying to make stuff work and when the Glocktriggers.com stuff worked right out of the package, I stopped looking.

[igolfat8]

I've got Ghost connectors in all my Glocks and they provide a much better feel, softer pull with their spring kits and can be tuned to eliminate over travel.

[JBP55]

I'm the OP, thanks for the info. Its clear to me there are two ways to go 1) al a carte- i.e. replace part by part do you own polishing and filing and jury rig parts; costs probably less than $50 and you better know what you are doing, 2) Buy a trigger "group", more expensive i.e. $130 to $200 but easier to install, drop the group in yourself or have an armorer do it.

I see plus and minus of both approaches. I do like tinkering and I can break down my guns to a certain extent but I draw the line at some point. I have gotten messed up using internet advice. I have never taken a armorer course. But I will. I have been shooting 1 year and I think for this step I'm going to take option 2. I can drop the group in but I'm very hesitant to mess around with option 1 based on my skills and my tools.

I may be wrong but I figure with option 2 most of these vendors know a lot more than I do and they have researched and tried a variety of combinations before they came up with their product. I also need to make sure what ever I get is acceptable for IDPA SSP and USPSA Production.

Thx

A Vanek Classic or Vanek GSSF should work for you. JohnnyBoss can fix you up as well, just tell him how it will be used.

[Quag]

I live in the wonderful Peoples Republic of Mass. We cannot buy Glocks from a FFL manufactured after 1998. So we have to be innovative with our Glocks. I have a G17 gen2 that's in good shape and I use it for IDPA and USPSA (SSP or production divisions). I do not use it for carry. There was some damage to the polymer grip near the mag well and I sent it Glock for refurbishing and they put a new Gen 3 receiver on the bottom with new factory parts. (Oh happy day) I love the grip much more than the Gen 2 which I had problems with and its become my first choice for my matches. The problem is they replaced it with factory parts and upgraded the weight on the trigger to 5.5 plus and I do not like the feel and pull of the trigger for competition. I am considering an aftermarket drop in trigger group and I am looking at Glocktriggers.com (vogel trigger). I talked to the owner and I like what I hear. I know there are others out there.

Any of you guys have any experience with this aftermarket product or others.

Thanks

PS and one day I'm going to move to a free state so I can buy a G34 Gen 4 or a CZ or whatever. But for now I've got what I got and I kind of like tinkering with my Gen2/Gen3 and making the best of it.

After messing around with all the different homebrew trigger jobs, I went with the Glocktriggers.com drop in Edge trigger and absolutely love it.

It dropped in and worked from the first trigger pull. I can't imagine their Vogel version being any different. I think you will be happy.

Thanks I think you helped me make my decision. I also had a conversation with the owner of Glocktiggers.com. I have to research the difference between the Edge and the Vogel. But you hit the nail on the head I just want to get the group and drop it in. I have had enough of tinkering my Dillion reloader had two issues today which I fixed but that took 3 hours out of my reloading time.