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Grand Power K100 and P1 product advisory


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Got mine back today, er yesterday. the barrel looks good. one of things that i like they fixed on mine with the new barrel is that it now will take longer bullets. i used to have to load some bullets shorter than usual due to the lead in original barrel being short. this new barrel does not have this issue.

the new barrel also is tight like it was when new. takes a little effort for it to lock and unlock which goes away with use.

going to install the Dawsons back on it and take it to the range this weekend. hopefully, if i am lucky, this barrel will shoot higher than the original one.

Happy New year to all

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update. had a chance to shoot the gun today. Bad news. still shoots low, but now it shoots left. At 10 yards, it shot about 3" left of aim when the rear sight is centered.

. i thought it was me, so after i had moved the sight to compensate, which caused the rear to be hanging slightly off the slide, i had two other shooters shoot it,and they confirmed that it does indeed shoot left.

Before the new barrel,with the oem barrel, it shot straight, but low. this is very dissapointing.

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OK thought I would ask, because I got mine back and it is shooting 1.5" low now. It shoots and groups great, just low now with everything from 115, 125, and 135gr. I tried the 147gr I load for my wife's production gun and it was shooting the 147gr left as well 1.5" low. To be honest it was shooting the 147gr bullets left before the new barrel. I am taking a guess the cause was a slow, heavy bullet not leaving the barrel before the unlocking motion could impart a spin on the bullet. I have no idea if this is even possible or valid, but it is the only thing I could come up with.

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i actually think its the recoil spring. many times i have found that its not sufficient to move the slide forward when loading. So i think it might be unlocking early. i have Glock and MP springs in 11/13/15/16/17 #. i tried the Glock 17# in it tonight and it fit. everything worked and should and even with the extra length i was able to take it back down with no problems. reassembly is a little more trouble as with the the extra length the rod has to be slowly pressed into it and the hole. I think its why they use a short spring.

I am going to try to get to the range this week to test out my theory by progressively using a heavier spring and seeing how it groups and functions.

So have anyone else that got the new barrel have problems?? Canuck, any opinion on this as you seem to have the ear of the factory.

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My K100 with the new barrel also seems to shoot left. It's not terrible - at 25 yards it shoots about 4" left. At 7-10 yards it's about 2" left. i *think* the rear sight needs slid over to the right just a tad and it should be good...though, the rear sight is already slightly over to the right right now...

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i was looking at the new barrel today and took some measurement. the front of the barrel is 15mm diameter and steps to 14,70mm 12mm down. when installed in the gun, 3.25mm is exposed so the amount of lock up is 8.75 mm. once it travels 8.75 mm it it basically a barrel floating with no front support.

since it is a left hand twist, my theory is that its early unlocking due to the recoil spring not applying enough pressure to prevent it going to the tapered section and the barrel is moving to the left. does this theory sound plausible?

I don't recall the oem barrel having the step, but not sure as i don't have the original anymore. anyone still have an original barrel and can check to see if it steps/tapers also.

Thanks

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i actually think its the recoil spring. many times i have found that its not sufficient to move the slide forward when loading. So i think it might be unlocking early. Canuck, any opinion on this as you seem to have the ear of the factory.

Before you play with the springs, please try one experiment for me.

Take your gun as it is, and run a few mags through it. See if it has the trouble you describe in loading.

If it does, put a drop of oil on the forward shoulder of the barrel, the part that you can see at the forward part of the ejection port, and a very thin film of oil on the slide by the extractor. (Not the breechface, but the portion of the slide that makes contact with the barrel.

Repeat and tell me if you find any difference.

When going into battery, the barrel is gliding on the slide like a thrust washer.

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i actually think its the recoil spring. many times i have found that its not sufficient to move the slide forward when loading. So i think it might be unlocking early. Canuck, any opinion on this as you seem to have the ear of the factory.

Before you play with the springs, please try one experiment for me.

Take your gun as it is, and run a few mags through it. See if it has the trouble you describe in loading.

If it does, put a drop of oil on the forward shoulder of the barrel, the part that you can see at the forward part of the ejection port, and a very thin film of oil on the slide by the extractor. (Not the breechface, but the portion of the slide that makes contact with the barrel.

Repeat and tell me if you find any difference.

When going into battery, the barrel is gliding on the slide like a thrust washer.

i understand what is happening and i do grease that area. i think its the short spring more than weight. when i put a longer spring in it., it all disappears. the longer spring has no problem pulling it into battery.

my main concern now is how to solve the left hitting. in my last post i gave my idea of what i think is causing it. I hope my suspicions are confirmed the next time i take it out. i like the gun , and am not ready to trash it yet.

So do any of your guns have the issue of shooting low or left Canuck?

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i was looking at the new barrel today and took some measurement. the front of the barrel is 15mm diameter and steps to 14,70mm 12mm down. when installed in the gun, 3.25mm is exposed so the amount of lock up is 8.75 mm. once it travels 8.75 mm it it basically a barrel floating with no front support.

since it is a left hand twist, my theory is that its early unlocking due to the recoil spring not applying enough pressure to prevent it going to the tapered section and the barrel is moving to the left. does this theory sound plausible?

I don't recall the oem barrel having the step, but not sure as i don't have the original anymore. anyone still have an original barrel and can check to see if it steps/tapers also.

Thanks

For some reason I can't post the link, but if you search YouTube for K100 High Speed you will find the video we did for a public agency tender.

Have a look at the gun as it fires, and the position of the slide and barrel as the bullet leaves the barrel.

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ok. did the test yesterday. laddered the springs to see if it fixed the windage. i started with the stock and ended with the glock 17# stock spring. shooting the stock spring, it hit left. once i put the longer 11# spring in it it disappeared. then the 13/15/17. all of them worked 100% with the longer length. the only really difference i could see was that when going to a stronger spring the ejection got closer as the poundage rose. the 17 ejected about a foot to the right. the negative was that the slide got harder to rack with each weight increase.

One of the side benefits i notice was the gun was a lot cleaner after shooting. i shot about 200rd and the feed ramp and slide are still pretty clean. it use to be filthy after about 150 -200 rounds in the past. I ended up settling with the 13# and will continue to experiment with it.

even though the springs seem to have fixed the windage, it did not fix the low shooting. as usual the accuracy was outstanding.

i don't exactly know what is going on, but i am a happy camper now.

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Thank you so much for this information! 13# spring is going in my K100 soon as I get home from work! Did you cut the 13# Glock spring down at all?

I had another thought on this - yesterday I shot my K100 in a super clean state and it wasn't really hitting left all that bad...a little later on in the practice session, it started hitting left. Now, I'm not the finest group shooter that has walked the earth (I actually kinda suck at it) so it could've just been me...but pay attention to where your gun groups as it gets dirty just in case I'm on to something.

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Thank you so much for this information! 13# spring is going in my K100 soon as I get home from work! Did you cut the 13# Glock spring down at all?

I had another thought on this - yesterday I shot my K100 in a super clean state and it wasn't really hitting left all that bad...a little later on in the practice session, it started hitting left. Now, I'm not the finest group shooter that has walked the earth (I actually kinda suck at it) so it could've just been me...but pay attention to where your gun groups as it gets dirty just in case I'm on to something.

nope did not cut it down. it a little harder to get the slide on with it and you have to slowly work the guide rod through the spring. i think its why GP uses the short spring. with the longer spring, it had quite a bit more preload to it to it now.

post your results after you try it. am curious how it works for u.

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I didn't shoot groups yesterday at the range, but I did run a practice state that we'd setup with some difficult shots - the K100 was accurate as hell and I didn't notice any shooting left. I'll confirm this weekend, which will be the next time I shoot groups.

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  • 1 month later...

I didn't like them, my grip is to high. Actualy I preffer covers from DAO but since they are illegal for IPSC production I am using slim safeties. So my advice is check how high you are gripping the gun before you buy extended safeties.

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I always start double-action, even when I shoot limited minor. I am so used to just drawing, pointing and pulling the trigger while concentrating on my first shot that switching to single-action, safety on is too much work and introduces a dramatic change in this mental exercise.

When I shoot my 1911, now, that is different, probably the difference in weight and geometry meaning a slower draw allows me to take care of the safety while I am elevating the sights to take care of the first target.

Therefore, for me, the bigger safeties are not a necessity. I actually like the very discrete standard safeties, which mostly act as a rest for my strong hand thumb.

I suggest contacting Grand Power directly in Slovakia to order some internals, like rolling pins and such, as these are not available on the US market, rather than these very optional, more cosmetic parts.

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  • 4 months later...

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