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Real testing and feedback on Slide Lightening


CHA-LEE

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Great thread. I've owned quite a few Open guns and speaking with gunsmiths and esp. with some SVI test-pilot shooters, seemed like the consensus was take about 2x as much from the rear as from the front of the slide. With a dot and a few different recoil springs it is quickly apparent when a change is helping or when it's making things worse.

Some amount of weight (front or back) out of a 1911 or G20 or G21 slide will usually seem to help, those were designed for 190 power factor. Some other platforms that are chopped and then pic-posted on here were probably light enough already. I had an Open Glock that I wanted to add weight to the slide; when I hung lead plumber's tape on it (Mad Scientist's idea) at the practice range, it seemed to shoot better. 2cents.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Great thread Cha-lee!

Any new awareness in this?

I´m also thinking about lightning up the slide of my CZ TS.

My thoughts (and hopes) were to reduce the recoil by lowering the moved mass by letting the statical mass (grip) untouched.

Am I wrong or not?

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Great thread Cha-lee!

Any new awareness in this?

I´m also thinking about lightning up the slide of my CZ TS.

My thoughts (and hopes) were to reduce the recoil by lowering the moved mass by letting the statical mass (grip) untouched.

Am I wrong or not?

Taking weight out of the slide can reduce the magnitude of muzzle flip, but it also results in more of a sharp or harsh felt recoil. If your goal is to reduce the felt recoil, then taking weight out of the slide is the opposite direction you need to go.

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Jayjay,

Are you reloading? What about your recoil spring/hammer spring? There are some less invasive ways to reduce felt recoil you might want to check off the list before you start chopping up your prized pistol :)

If you want to try adding some weight to the slide I have a TS rear sight I drilled and tapped for a slide racker.

ETA: how's your grip strength?

Edited by kneelingatlas
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Oh, I would like to, but my wallet won´t.

I hope I get that dang arm healed again. :blush:

I checked out Wolff springs, but couldn´t find reduced springs for the TS.

Their website is a little bit intransparent for me.

Edited by jayjay1
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So the 12 lbs is the original?

Should I take an 11, 10 or 9, or all three and test them?

"CZ75 B Models:

Reduced Power - Pak contains 1 each reduced pwoer recoil springs in 9, 10, 11, and 12 pounds. Three extra power firing pin springs are also included. (Stock No. 13124)"

Is the "B" right?

Or the Standard Modells or Long Slide Models?

Edited by jayjay1
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The reduced pak would be good, I think the B springs have a taper at the end, but the TS has no block, so I would go with the non B. I think you'd really need to get the slide/rails polished up to get it to function with a 9# spring, but 10 and 11 worked well for me.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 years later...

So what about taking the weight out of the slide to have less reciprocating mass but adding something like tungsten guide rod to try to add the weight back in to keep recoil down? I have done both myself but can't say that I am a good enough shooter to quantify any difference in performance.

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You can add more non-reciprocating weight to the gun to make it feel softer while shooting. The possibilities are endless really so it comes down to what you like and want it to feel like.

You can make the gun really heavy and that will make it feel really soft shooting. But there is a point of diminishing return. You can make the gun shoot too soft and make you lazy in gripping the gun hard. I have found that a really soft shooting gun makes me actually shoot slower and less accurate because I get lazy on gripping the gun. I need a little bit of harshness during the recoil to keep me diligent in gripping the gun hard.

I recently switched from heavy bull barrels over to bushing barrels to increase the harshness. Doing this took out about 2oz of non-reciprocating weight.

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