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Tanfoglio cleaning tips


Nealio

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Thats not dirty, you need to run about a thousand molly coated rounds through there ore better yet 700 cast lead, then you will get some nice gunk built up, but they still run. the only place i have had any issues with them running dirty is in the deasert (Las Vegas and Eastern Idaho) where the fine dust got in to the slide rails and thickend the lubricant to the poit that it slowed the slide down till I got stove pipes.

Mike

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I've always cleaned after every range trip, because while I growing up, my father did it that way, so we did it together. It could be a holdover from the corrosive primer days- I don't know. (I can hear the jokes about my age already.) I don't make any claims that its better, only that the smell of the original formula Hoppe's # 9 makes me happy (the formula was changed because of environmental restrictions on hydroflurocarbons- I think) . My wife once joked that she should wear it as perfume.

Although these days with time contraints as someone (Nealio- I think) said elsewhere, mostly I use automotive carb/throttle body cleaner (and a small stiff brush where needed) to quickly strip most of the gunk after shooting lots of coated bullets. Its $3.50 or so per 14 oz for an aeresol can compared to the $13.50 or so for the can specially made for cleaning guns, but I'm using it on a steel framed pistol and carefully relubing afterwards (because it tends to strip off all the oils that prevent your pistol from rusting). The special spray can version claims that its safe for polymer framed guns, so I'd be cautious about using the cheap stuff on the polys. The cheap stuff has worked well for me on the steel pistols, but don't forget to relube everthing carefully because it strips off the oils and your pistol may rust or wear out fast if you don't. And don't spray it on any tritium night sights and be careful about spraying it in anywhere you may not relubricate carefully or at all like the firing pin channel, under the extractor or on outer finished surfaces. Spraying it down with CLP and letting it soak overnight would probably be safer.

Disc brake cleaner supposedly strips even more protective oils.

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I was justing talking to another shooter and we are talking about how to clean it up. He said it was sort of a pain, and the I asked... What if you take the grip pannels off and dump it into a Ultrasonic cleaner tank?

I wonder if anyone else has done that...

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Once a year I strip my pistols down to the bare frame, put it in a tub of Simple Green and hot water, scrub with a nylon brush for 5 minutes, and then rinse with hot water.

No harsh chemicals and the simple green cleans better than any "gun cleaner"I've tried.

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Once a year I strip my pistols down to the bare frame, put it in a tub of Simple Green and hot water, scrub with a nylon brush for 5 minutes, and then rinse with hot water.

No harsh chemicals and the simple green cleans better than any "gun cleaner"I've tried.

Simple Green is the bees knees. I love that stuff!!

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I use it on my aluminum parts too. I don't mix it that strong though. I think I run 8:1 or so. The stuff is like magic.

I don't soak anything in it either. You literally put the part in the solution, and start scrubbing. Usually 30 seconds later its like new.

I'll probably be cleaning my Limited (pictured above) soon since its um pretty bad... I'll do a before and after pic.. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use it on my aluminum parts too. I don't mix it that strong though. I think I run 8:1 or so. The stuff is like magic.

I don't soak anything in it either. You literally put the part in the solution, and start scrubbing. Usually 30 seconds later its like new.

I'll probably be cleaning my Limited (pictured above) soon since its um pretty bad... I'll do a before and after pic.. :)

So you DO have some cleaning tips :)

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I use it on my aluminum parts too. I don't mix it that strong though. I think I run 8:1 or so. The stuff is like magic.

I don't soak anything in it either. You literally put the part in the solution, and start scrubbing. Usually 30 seconds later its like new.

I'll probably be cleaning my Limited (pictured above) soon since its um pretty bad... I'll do a before and after pic.. :)

So you DO have some cleaning tips :)

Doh !

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I was justing talking to another shooter and we are talking about how to clean it up. He said it was sort of a pain, and the I asked... What if you take the grip pannels off and dump it into a Ultrasonic cleaner tank?

I wonder if anyone else has done that...

I do that. I have a hornady magnum cleaner that I use with their gun cleaning solution. I put the frame in grip upwards and let it run for a minute or 2 then do my normal cleaning of brushes and rags. The sonic gives you a big head start and loosens everything up but there is still cleaning involved on your part. The sonic cleaner is great for rifle bolts as its a bear to clean inside them but the sonic makes quick work of that.

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  • 3 months later...

How often do you clean the extractor and "extractor channel?" I'm not sure exactly what it's called. I was at a match and started getting double feeds from the extractor slipping off the case rim. I didn't have tools or time to remove the extractor and clean it and the "channel," so I applied a liberal dose of Break Free and crossed my fingers. Luckily it worked since I had 5 stages left. I'm guessing I had 800-1000 rounds through it since I'd last cleaned the extractor.

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I've always cleaned after every range trip, because while I growing up, my father did it that way, so we did it together. It could be a holdover from the corrosive primer days- I don't know. (I can hear the jokes about my age already.) I don't make any claims that its better, only that the smell of the original formula Hoppe's # 9 makes me happy (the formula was changed because of environmental restrictions on hydroflurocarbons- I think) . My wife once joked that she should wear it as perfume.

Although these days with time contraints as someone (Nealio- I think) said elsewhere, mostly I use automotive carb/throttle body cleaner (and a small stiff brush where needed) to quickly strip most of the gunk after shooting lots of coated bullets. Its $3.50 or so per 14 oz for an aeresol can compared to the $13.50 or so for the can specially made for cleaning guns, but I'm using it on a steel framed pistol and carefully relubing afterwards (because it tends to strip off all the oils that prevent your pistol from rusting). The special spray can version claims that its safe for polymer framed guns, so I'd be cautious about using the cheap stuff on the polys. The cheap stuff has worked well for me on the steel pistols, but don't forget to relube everthing carefully because it strips off the oils and your pistol may rust or wear out fast if you don't. And don't spray it on any tritium night sights and be careful about spraying it in anywhere you may not relubricate carefully or at all like the firing pin channel, under the extractor or on outer finished surfaces. Spraying it down with CLP and letting it soak overnight would probably be safer.

Disc brake cleaner supposedly strips even more protective oils.

try brake cleaner. carby cleaner is ok, but it leaves a residue behind. brakecleaner evaporates and does not leave any residue behind. :) but as you mentioned you do need to be careful with relubing/protecting stuff.

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