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kneelingatlas

EAA/Tanfoglio Chop Shop - NO SELLING OR TRADING

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Well that lim pro with 22lr kit sold on gun broker for 599$ please tell me someone on here picked it up!?! Lol

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I'm thinking about selling my 22 conversion setup. If anyone is interested in a .22 conversion that's been "tuned up" to be 99.975% reliable contact me. I also have 7 mags. Would be great for Steel Challenge.

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That's my use for my 1911 .22 set up. It's a great plate burner and makes for the cheapest match out there. I'd bite if I didn't already have a good rig.

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I'm looking for a Henning and/or Canyon creek magwell , if some one have one and want to sell it just PM me.

It's for a LF Limited in 40S&W.

Thanks in advance!

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I do have a Tanfo magwell that is barely used. If you get no where in your search, PM me.

That goes for anyone that might be interested. It will be half the cost of Hennings.

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Alright. After sitting out a couple years for marriage and new baby, I'm starting to shoot again. And to top it off I found a Stock 3. I've been looking for one of these since before EAA started importing them. It should be here any day. Sounds like the internals are a little different than other models. Can someone school me on this new gun? How does it differ?

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The Stock three is popular in Canadian IPSC Production but not as common as the CZ's. Recently, we started to get the Xtreme Stock III's in as well as other models. I bought a Limited Pro for several reasons including the cost of the Stock III. I didn't want a light rail for one of them.

I did compare against one Xtreme III and didn't see any differences of a major order. I ended up installing all Xtreme parts and so now think except for the dust guard and rail, I have a very similar gun.

I expect my Ltd Pro "out of the box" would have been similar to the Stock three as it has the straight barrel but with conventional rifling. I'm not sure what the guns brought into the US have rifling wise. It could be that only the Xtremes have the Poly rifling.

Edited by hercster

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Here is a progress picture of my limited gun. I think the next step will be an aftermarket sear and hammer to shorten overtravel and reset. image_zpsjxlbgafq.jpg

Wow do those grips make that pistol look sweet!

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Alright. After sitting out a couple years for marriage and new baby, I'm starting to shoot again. And to top it off I found a Stock 3. I've been looking for one of these since before EAA started importing them. It should be here any day. Sounds like the internals are a little different than other models. Can someone school me on this new gun? How does it differ?

nice work jason, those are almost impossible to find, I would love to have one, as far as I know they are a combo of a limited pro and a stock 2 with a longer dust cover (to match the longer slide).

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Does anyone have an extra screw that fits on the factory magwell? Mine got stripped. Also anyone have some extra safety roll pins laying around? Thanks

Gump

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Ok, do you know if the safety roll pins are able to get somewhere like Lowes or Home Depot? Are they like a standard size that can be used for other purposes? Thanks Atlas

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Wanted to get some of the resident gunsmiths opinions. I shot my Limited at the Alabama sectional last Saturday and racked up 42 penalties on 2 stages because my gun broke. I have not had any issues with my Limited since I got it. Everything was working fine then all of a sudden the trigger would not reset nor fire. I don't have a clicky pen spring in it as a plunger spring and I cleaned the gun thoroughly last week. I would rack the slide and the hammer would not fall. I took it to the safe area and I remember having the slide back and took my finger and pushed down on the plunger and felt a click and then it started working normally. Dry fired and racked it prolly 75 times at the safe area and it worked fine. Went to the next stage and got 3/4 finished and then the same thing happened at which time I swapped to my backup gun.

Anyways, what do you think possibly could be the culprit? I took the pistol apart yesterday and the plunger spring seemed fine, cleaned out the channel the plunger goes in and it was dirty but not tremendously. I took the plunger apart and where the small pin goes in the top to keep plunger depressed had all I can describe was a little rough edge so I took some fine grit sandpaper and smoothed it out. I can't think of another culprit. If the plunger was not coming all the way back up after firing this would cause the trigger not to reset properly correct?

Thanks

Gump

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I don't think so Atlas. I guess possibly that screws may have over time started twisting out. I had loctited them I thought but will check that as well tonight. Thanks

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Whenever I've experienced any trigger issues the first thing I do is back out both screws all the way; over time, as parts wear, the screws need to be adjusted to compensate.

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+1 on checking to see if the Pre/Over travel set screws are set too tight. You need a little bit of extra Pre/Over travel to ensure reliable reset/break of the trigger. The main problem here isn't the trigger, its the sear cage. In dry fire the sear cage does not move around much so you can get away with setting the Pre/Over travel set screws really tight and the trigger feels bad ass. But when you shoot, the sear cage is bouncing around all over the place because the ejector rod is part of it. As the sear cage bounces around it changes how much Pre/Over travel you need to reset or break the trigger. I always had 1mm of extra Pre/Over travel on my trigger jobs and this eliminated a lot of the "Sear Bounding" based reset/break issues.

Another thing to look into are divots forming in the frame where the Pre/Over travel set screws bottom out. Over time a divot will form in the frame from the set screw digging into it. If the trigger is pushed left or right slightly the set screw will bottom out on the ridge of the divot instead of the center of it. This will change how much Pre/Over travel there is. When I was shooting the EAA guns I had to keep a close eye on these divots in the frame and I would clean them up every time I did a detailed strip/clean of the gun.

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Thanks guys. Nealio, no the plunger was in correct position. I am starting to think that the pre/over travel screws could be the issue. I am gonna check them and then test fire and see if that caused the issue, plan on putting at least 100+ rounds through and if it's flawless then I will try at a match again. One other thing that started happening lately was at LAMR or when I would reload to a full mag during a stage, the round would get stuck trying to chamber. It has all been case gauged and I can bump the back of the slide and it will chamber but wondering if the recoil spring is too light shooting major now. I have an 8# in there right now I believe, I'd have to check when get back to the hacienda. It only happens when it's a full mag of 20 rounds that it will not want to chamber fully. Does having too light of a recoil spring possibly have any correlation to this phenomenom?

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What is the shape of your pretravel screw? If it's stock with the flatter nose it can work fine and reset ok, then sometimes be too tight.

I usually put a pointier tip on the pretravel screw so it rests consistently on the frame

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What is the shape of your pretravel screw? If it's stock with the flatter nose it can work fine and reset ok, then sometimes be too tight.

I usually put a pointier tip on the pretravel screw so it rests consistently on the frame

It's the screw that came with the EG flat trigger I installed on the Limited. It's not a flat nose but a pointy one

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Random fact of the day. The set screw from a LPA rear sight on an IFG Tanfoglio Limited Custom is the exact same size as the handle securing screw for Kwikset Tustin door levers. Though I opted to use the 5mm one I had instead of the 4mm one used on the Tanfo.

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