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EAA/Tanfoglio Chop Shop - NO SELLING OR TRADING


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I like the comp with vertical poppel hole concept a lot.

Just as a thought, maybe make the slide cut long enough for four, but start off with two or three holes and see what you think...you can always drill the additional holes.

Hard to tell from your rendering and I may be wrong, but it looks like the walls on the first chamber are really thin. Don't want to make the walls (especially the corners) of the compensator too thin, they may crack.

As usual,extra credit for thinking outside of the box! :cheers:

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I've got a plan for Gump's spare Gold Team barrel, my Stock II slide and my drill press :devil: Here's a sneak preview:

2nd%20Gold%20Team%20Barrel.jpg

GoldCustom_zpsed214df0.jpg

Instead of the V12:

EAAGOLDtop_zps7edae07d.jpg

Man John, I was just thinking about a(n) open gun like that; (down the stock 2), man that will be a sweet gun! let me know how it is so I can decide if I want to build one :devil:

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Turning the two port comp into a three port comp is going to be a trick, so I might reevaluate when I have it in hand...

Plan B is to just open up the first port, but I'm sure I'll be giving up a lot with that.

Edited by kneelingatlas
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Just as a thought, maybe make the slide cut long enough for four, but start off with two or three holes and see what you think...you can always drill the additional holes.

I thought about that, but I don't know if I could handle the asemetry, so I might drill 4 1/8" holes to start, then made them progressively bigger :)

Thank for the input; I know it's going to be a trick to get that first port to look good with those recessed areas where the V ports would go.

Another idea is to leave the two little ports like a GT, drill out the V4 ports in the comp right where they go, then do the four holes at 12 o'clock.

I feel like those two small ports in the comp are the reason the Gold team hits so hard in the hand. The 12 holes mitigate the muzzle flip, but not the straight back push.

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Turning the two port comp into a three port comp is going to be a trick, so I might reevaluate when I have it in hand...

Plan B is to just open up the first port, but I'm sure I'll be giving up a lot with that.

It sounds like you have your work "cut" out for you! :roflol::ph34r:

Sorry I had to... :eatdrink:

I personally think that you are onto something brilliant, a stock two frame with a full length dust-cover, a compensated cone barrel, with a customized comp so that it has no impulse. Sounds BRILLIANT! I hope it all goes well in trying to decide how to open it up.

Edited by george76904
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Atlas,

I dont remember exactly how the threads are in the comp without checking but i think that you will be left with too little threaded length on the barrel, when you machine out the holes to a comp chamber. To my knowledge both holes and chambers are for muzzle flip. You should be looking at a gill comp (side exits, preferably aimed backwards) to remove the recoil. Check with the high power rifles for ex JP Recoil elimininator or Witt Machine. But they are veeery ugly. I have a JP on my AR and going to fit a giant Witt on the upcoming 338...

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Atlas, with your hunter project in 40 (and to anyone else shooting 40 on a large frame) what OAL do you load to? I should be getting a hunter in a swap soon. The deal is set just needs to happen. I plan on keeping my lim pro as my open gun project and shaping a few parts off my hunter for the lim pro. I do have a 6 in 38sup barrel here... I may end up just doing a v16 poppet holes with no comp. between the weight n gas should Shoot pretty soft. Pics up soon!

O and the hunter is in 10mm.

Edited by Open1215
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Yes, the third port is dependent upon the female threads inside the comp extending all the way to the first port. On the factory threaded barrels I've seen the threads don't go all the way to the muzzle so what I would have to do is remove the original barrel, install a sacrificial barrel which is threaded all the way to the end, permanently bond it to the threads in the comp, then mill the first port right through the barrel, pull out the remainder and ream out the threads in my little barrel doughnut.

I've done something similar on three port .40 comps to tighten the holes in the baffles.

Another idea is to simply cut the comp in two, keep the cone part on the barrel, then screw a new comp on the part sticking out.

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My 90 mount got here today with a few goodies from mr atlas ? thank you for all your help! I have the slide racker installed to the right and it really sticks out but I need it to be able to chamber a round with my messed up left hand. I still need to Get it sighted in but I love it! More work and pics soon!

post-55050-0-60272100-1412635199_thumb.j

post-55050-0-46979600-1412635209_thumb.j

post-55050-0-71882500-1412635221_thumb.j

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Atlas,

why dont you just machine a separate threaded cone with Tanfo threads for the barrel and 2011 thread for the comp? I have on my to do list to fit a 2011 comp on my supershorty barrel. But there the bull barrel is so short that it only extends 8 mm outside the slide. If somebody has a surplus 2011 long comp but for the .575 barrel or without threads at all please let me know. One that would look something like this but not for a bull barrel.

post-11121-0-99082200-1412666588_thumb.j

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I've been down that road Saratoga and the major diameter of M15x0.75 threads and the minor diameter of 0.685x40 are too close to make it work. The other thing is that with the differences in geometry the 2011 comps point down at a slight angle when installed on a Tanfo barrel (I made a thread adapter for small frame barrels).

Edited by kneelingatlas
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Since adding the third port is going to be especially challenging, as well as removing the comp without destroying it, I'm dreaming up a new, easier plan: mill out the front port (maybe a hair bigger than the V12), then drill the four V ports in the comp (since the blanks are already there), then start drilling holes at 12:00 evenly spaced going back through the slide, once I'm happy with the 12:00 holes, I'll mill a slot ~6.8mm wide to match the V slots on the comp.

The way I figure it one 3mm 12:00 hole should provide the same down force as two 3mm holes at 45 degrees so with the two ports in comp, four V holes in the comp and four 12:00 holes in the slide, it should perform just like the V12.

The area of a 3mm hole is 7sqmm but the area of a 4mm hole is 12.5sqmm, so if I make the holes 4mm instead of 3mm like the V12, I should get nearly double the gas's out of each hole.

So if my math holds true, I should be able to equal the V12 with 4 4mm holes in the comp and 2 4mm holes at 12:00 so maybe I'll do 3 4mm holes at 12:00 just for good measure :)

Edited by kneelingatlas
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Atlas, fitting the comp...the open minor i posted pics on here earlier is made with a 1911 cone comp threaded for .575-40 and a tanfo bull barrel machined down to fit the the threads in the comp. That is one way of doing it. The cone on the cone comp was machined to same size as the Tanfo cone. I myself was planning on making .685 threads on the bull barrel or its extension directly. Will post pics later of that, If i end up with a downwards pointing comp or not...

And by the way, in your calculation above you ruling out the "stabilizing" effect of the 45 degree holes. The 2011 crown does that with their side cuts or side holes in the comp. Tanfo had them on the older comps as well.

And one comment about small frame/large frame barrels, As far as i know all barrels made for cone comps today are 15mm in dia no matter if they are small or large frame. And all bull barrels are the same. It is only when talking "old style" slides for straight barrels you find the difference in diameter on some models. I have understood that nowadays for example the new Gold Match in small frame has a 15mm barrel. So that much for small frame/large frame rule.

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I've progressed a little further on my design:

CustomGoldTeam_zpsbc3322df.jpg

The baffles in the comp are pretty thick, so I think I can cheat out the second port a little bigger than factory which should help, then I think seven 4mm holes should do the trick :devil:

The slide is already under 11oz, so I'm not sure how aggressive I want to get taking weight out of it, maybe even replace the slots with some ball cuts which don't go all the way though... I definitely want to clean up the rear sight cut area though:

IMG_20141008_063649519_zps1f569ecc.jpg

maybe take off the rear serrations like my Hunter as well.

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I find it bizarre that someone that is wanting to match the amount of serrations on the hunter to match the other tanfos is now milling off the rear serrations at all. lol.

PS- you realize the new match slides only have four front serrations, too, right? What do you think about the base models with three?!?

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I took my new hunter to the range yesterday. I had a great time and I really enjoy this gun! Several of the range workers where shocked ove how soft it was to shoot. After running through a box of 10mm, I dropped in my 6in 38 super barrel and was having issues with cycling Im guessing due to spring weight. So I put the shorter spring from my lim pro in and had the same issues. The ammo wasn't that great. It was older 115 with 7g of 700x I believe. ( pulled a few for the brass)

My question is I haven't been able to find any hunter springs from my google searches. I've only found them for long slide 4.75in models.

Here is my question. Would it be ok to shoot the hunter with the shorter spring or should I load some hot super with some 124g and see what cycles my slide? I know I can get a high velosity quickly with the longer barrel but I have always heard it is foolish to shoot major out of a non comped gun. Does this stay true with a 6in gun in 38 super or is that more for 9mm maj. Any suggestions would be great!

I think if I would be ok to run a shorter spring, a 10lb spring would be good for box loads. I'm just really not too sure that's a good idea?

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