Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Beretta 1301 Comp


JediTodd

Recommended Posts

two different ways to accomplish it, one is a part that slips into the existing "normal" buttstock, and replaces the original recoil pad, and the other is one that replaces the entire "normal" buttstock with a different type that compresses.

the confusion comes from the fact that both are referred to as the "kick off" option. The one I have replaces the entire "normal" original buttstock assembly. If you really like the grippy texture of the original stock and don't think you could ever live without it, then opt for the option that slips into the original buttstock, because the replacement one that is required with the other option is a textured rubberized skin in the area where the grippy stuff would be located.

Personally I've never seen the need for a extra grippy surface on the pistol grip area of a shotgun, fore end sure but not the pistol grip trigger area. So I had no issues with the change in surface.

Beretta it seems has issues with selling the item directly to end users (us), but you can order it from,....................................................................................................wait for it,.....................................Brownells. if you give me a couple days or pm me I can provide you with the Beretta part# for the option I have, also it seems some of thier reps are giving out false info on the KO/1301's ability to interface properly, all I know is the one I have and Bennie Cooley has, fits and works!!!

Trapr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 1.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great timing on the post. I literally just got off the phone with the Beretta folks who told me the only way was to replace the entire stock. Apparently not so much. Thanks!

Edited to add. Looks like Brownells has two KOs. One smaller and more expensive, the other larger and less expensive. I'm with you on grippy pistol grip areas. Don't really see the need.

Edited by Neomet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've now spent a bit of time with one (although it's not mine :angry2: ). A friend bought a 24". It's fast. Very fast. I certainly can't outrun the bolt, no matter how I may try. Also, with the stock IC choke, Fiocchi Low Recoil slugs printed exactly to POI at 50 yd. Federal low recoil slugs were about 6" high, but centered side-to-side. Recoil seemed less than my Winchester Super X 3. Very impressed with this shotgun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

flannigun, yes it could???? as in maybe, or maybe not!!

can the loading port be opened up MORE, sure it can,.... you can simply remove that pesky little number at the front that is about 1/10" to 1/8" down from the edge and ATF won't give a hoot about it??

The port is opened up, beveled, chamfered, flared, whatever you want to call it just about the same as the old Benelli M2 3-gun model. I don't recall anyone saying they thought that needed more!!

you can only remove so much without starting to interfere with the other parts in the gun, or to the point that the other parts start making the mod useless, as stated above you can only lower the port in the front about 1/10th inch. You can polish off the hard edges. If you want a larger loading port then go with a 3.5" gun, SBE, etc.

My apologies firedude, I originally read your post as opened up more, i see now where it reads BETTER, yes polishing the hard edges definitely makes it better, i'll post pics of the job we do at RNT on the RNT FB page later this week.

Trapr

Edited by bigbrowndog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The one thing I really don't care for on the 1301 comp gun is the front of the "flared" loading port. Why they went and finished the 45 degree champher all the way around baffles me. The front should be flat to the face of the mag tube and then beveled into the mag tube opening, not away from the opening as built!!! As is is you have to be very precise about shell placement or you hit the knife edge they left at the receiver and mag tube and it jams the shell from being inserted. If I were to play with one I would MIG the front flare up to the level of the receiver and then do a propper port job to it. Other than that they seem to be nice shotguns.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've not seen or handled a 1301 in person, so I have a question. How is the piston system different from the SLP piston system. The reason I ask is because my one and only complaint about the SLP was that I could run light target loads for about 50 or so shells without any trouble. I might get out to 100 shells before feed failures, caused by carbon build up in the piston area and have to break out heavier shells. My Versamax runs light target shells all day long without complaint. How robust is the piston system on the 1301? Does it run and run even when dirty? I know the obvious answer is to keep it clean, but lets face it. None of us does as good a job as we should keeping up on equipment maintenance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt is correct, the front of the port needs the edge removed and the chamfer turned the other way around it is not difficult but you need to go slow and check the work along the way to make sure you don't affect the rounds in themag tube and give them room to get around the shell stop.

The 1301 will run for a full day of competitive shooting with 2.75dram loads, 100+ rounds, after that it's an unknown so far for us US shooters. As for not taking care of your gun maintenance, that's on the shooter, especially if you KNOW you need to. I routinely lube mine during matches between stages, or take it apart and clean it if conditions warrant it.

How the gas piston differs from an SLP? I can't say as I've never worked on one,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL, Of course you are right. I had to clean the SLP after every use if I wanted it to be 100%. Synthetic motor oil significantly helped keeping it running and with reducing clean up time. My Nova and VM have me spoiled though. M2's also have that ability to stay clean and running for lots and lots of rounds. With so much going on every day, I have become a low maintenance sort of guy. With work, family, range time and reloading and with 6 or 7 dirty guns every week, sometimes I just run out of time to give them the attention they deserve. The 1301 reads well with light weight, good balance, soft recoil, excellent trigger, long hand guard (for my knuckle dragger arms), Beretta quality and a quick cyclic rate... what's not to like. Was just curious where it falls in the spectrum of: Have to clean it every time you shoot it (SLP). To... Can be run like a three legged pack mule and put away wet without complaint (VM).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

re: loading port work. Here's some that a local shooter did. I believe since he's cleaned it up a tad more, too. I've yet to try loading on it but it looks like it'd be quick.

1301_project_17.jpg

LOL, Of course you are right. I had to clean the SLP after every use if I wanted it to be 100%. Synthetic motor oil significantly helped keeping it running and with reducing clean up time. My Nova and VM have me spoiled though. M2's also have that ability to stay clean and running for lots and lots of rounds. With so much going on every day, I have become a low maintenance sort of guy. With work, family, range time and reloading and with 6 or 7 dirty guns every week, sometimes I just run out of time to give them the attention they deserve. The 1301 reads well with light weight, good balance, soft recoil, excellent trigger, long hand guard (for my knuckle dragger arms), Beretta quality and a quick cyclic rate... what's not to like. Was just curious where it falls in the spectrum of: Have to clean it every time you shoot it (SLP). To... Can be run like a three legged pack mule and put away wet without complaint (VM).

That's what really throws me off about the SLPs. I've never had a single issue with light loads, even after very high round count matches like Nordic and not cleaning or oiling at all. Clearly others do which is why I wouldn't recommend one to anyone going forward. I also hate the cantilever barrel compared to a rib but that's another story.

Edited by mngunguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm thinking of getting a Beretta 1301. Currently I have a VersaMax with a Carbon Arms one piece mag tube extension. My question is if I get a 1301 and add a Nordic tube extension do I still need to use the barrel clamp. By removing the barrel clamp on my VersaMax and using the one piece tube my slug accuracy at 50 plus yards has been greatly improved. I would rather not use the barrel clamp but I am unsure if the Nordic extension on the 1301 will be secure enough. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im pretty new to shotguns but own one of the slp's that runs good .Thinking about getting a 1301 for my 12 year old daughter tomorrow For what I believe is true it will have a shorter stock then the slp if I leave the spacers out and be at least a pound lighter all without more recoil. Correct me if this is incorrect.

Thanks Kelly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I scored a 24" 1301 today never even made it home went right to the range. At 50 yards just about dead on with slugs, runs Winchester AA like no tomorrow. Very light, easy to point, love the light recoil. Now to order a +5 tube for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...