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Beretta 1301 Comp


JediTodd
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I went with a +5 and didn't buy the clamp originally. Ended up buying one later just so I could use a sling (so far only used it for duck hunting!). It is not typically on my gun though. It's not needed. Maybe one of the guys using a +6 or longer will chime in if a clamp is actually needed for the longer lengths. If you have big hands you won't need to weld the lifter. I had mine welded up due to small hands. Shoot it for a while then decide if and how you will open the loading port. I haven't done mine yet. I eventually will.

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Edited by xtremekramer
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Does anyone have the Nordic part number for the correct clamp for the 1301? I tried one from Midway and the one from my 930 JM and both cause the mag tube to bend severely up toward the barrel. I just can't leave it that way. There must be a better solution (other than NO clamp)!

Would any of the Magpul shotgun mag clamps work?

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Does anyone have the Nordic part number for the correct clamp for the 1301? I tried one from Midway and the one from my 930 JM and both cause the mag tube to bend severely up toward the barrel. I just can't leave it that way. There must be a better solution (other than NO clamp)!

Would any of the Magpul shotgun mag clamps work?

Give Nordic a call.

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Does anyone have the Nordic part number for the correct clamp for the 1301? I tried one from Midway and the one from my 930 JM and both cause the mag tube to bend severely up toward the barrel. I just can't leave it that way. There must be a better solution (other than NO clamp)!

Would any of the Magpul shotgun mag clamps work?

Give Nordic a call.

I've exchanged a couple of emails and the person there suggests that leaving the mag tube loose so it can bend up is OK. I just cannot buy that. None of the pictures I see of the 1301 with the Nordic extension show the pronounced up angle mine has. It cannot be right.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

In addition to getting the +4 extension installed with the correct clamp I noticed the gun (new, unfired) would not properly cycle dummy shells on the bench. I polished the interrupter face per posted instructions here and took it to the local gravel pit for trials. I immediately experienced failures to cycle properly with say 5 out of 8 shells needing manual cycling to chamber. This was discouraging as I replaced a JM Pro with this new Beretta to hopefully get a more trouble-free shotgun. I thought of shortening the mag spring per other postings but on a hunch grabbed some 1200 fps loads. These proved to run perfectly. About 50 rounds later the gun seemed to like the original 1145 fps loads just fine as well!

Does some sort of "break-in" seem normal for a 1301?

Anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks for all the help, I am new to 3-Gun but not new to shooting and I really appreciate this forum.

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I think all shotguns need a break in period. I don't know what the "interrupter" face is, but the shell catch is what I think you mean. It just needs to be smoothed a little. I would shoot the gun without the clamp for awhile, then introduce the clamp. The springs need to be used and oil needs to spread and yes, the break is necessary. I don't and most people I know that shoot this gun don't use a clamp. Also, the lifter( "carrier") needs smoothing where it touches the bolt release. (The opposite end of the shell catch).

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Apologies if this has been covered.

Went to pattern my new 1301 at the local range, only to find out they didn't have a patterning board. For those of you who still use the original mid-bead, are you using a figure 8 hold? Does that tend to throw the shot 50-50 above and below at (say) 10-20 yards and shoot slugs fairly straight? I haven't gotten to adjusting the drop and cast of the stock (couldn't find my socket set), and it's currently superimposing the mid-bead on top of the FO.

Edited by attakmint
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OK, best I could do.post-14685-0-43661600-1430000483_thumb.j The hold for slugs is the mid-bead halfway up the front sight-which is close to the pic. If your fit is correct, that should be good out to 100yds. I guess that's what you mean by figure 8. Shotgun patterning is done at 40 yds traditionally - on NRA patterning targets. Then check at 25, 10 or whatever. It's the mount that gets you on target with shot. Look at target, not down the sight for shot. If your mount and fit is right, you should break or knock over whatever you are looking at. Couple threads on this already in technique. I use the 65 drop plate.

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OK, best I could do.attachicon.gifIMG_8447.jpg The hold for slugs is the mid-bead halfway up the front sight-which is close to the pic. If your fit is correct, that should be good out to 100yds. I guess that's what you mean by figure 8. Shotgun patterning is done at 40 yds traditionally - on NRA patterning targets. Then check at 25, 10 or whatever. It's the mount that gets you on target with shot. Look at target, not down the sight for shot. If your mount and fit is right, you should break or knock over whatever you are looking at. Couple threads on this already in technique. I use the 65 drop plate.

Yeah, that's a figure 8, where the mid-bead is at the bottom of the FO bead (muzzle bead? What else would you call it?). Thank you for the advice, I'll have to try to convince the range to let me pattern at 50, and to remember to bring slugs next weekend.

I superimpose and slugs hit poa out to 100yds.

Great, thanks!

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You can buy a dozen patterning targets pretty cheap from NRA. 40 yds. Then when you get the drop and fit comfortable and pattern using IC, then pattern with a mod. Once you get the hang of it, then you can just use poster paper from the supermarket, cause you know what you're looking for. The NRA shotgun patterning targets have instructions on them. Patterning can take all day if you want the complete info, but then you will have confidence from all that information, and the shooting that goes along with it.

Edited by Jadeslade
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  • 1 month later...

FYI Arredondo now has the speed chute for a 1301 comp. Yay!

Indeed! :cheers:

Open 1301.jpg Open 1301a.jpg

What was involved with the installation?

Drifting out the stock trigger group pin, put the speed chute inplace & install the new supplied pin. Fits like a glove, even with my modded port.

Ralph really did a nice job on these.

Having run his chutes on M1/2's and the VM, at first I was wtf?,when I seen the newer type design (tangs sticking down).

I just got back from testing, within no time I was hitting loads with the gun shouldered, something I could never do consisently with the others.

It's also tapered nicely around the safety, rotating the gun ejection port up, guides my middle finger to put the safety back on.

We'll see how much blood is shed come match time (gotta bleed in 3gun, right?), but so far I'm liking it.

I'm curious about whether you made any other mods to the gun/speedloaders to get it to load smoothly. I'm running a 1301 with the Arredondo chute and Arredondo speedloaders. I have trimmed the tongues to length so the lifter is fully depressed just as the speedloader tube is fully inserted into the hooks on the chute. But I find that cartridges (58mm OAL) tend to catch on the bottom of receiver as they exit the speedloader, instead of going neatly into the magazine. They are hitting on the bottom just where the magazine tube is pressed into the receiver. The problem disappears when I add some material to lengthen the feed in funnel into the magazine, hence supporting the nose of the cartridge until it enters the magazine tube. Am I missing something or do I need to make some permanent receiver mods??

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Mine has consistently fed and ran every type of she'll I've put in it.. even the cheap stuff from wally world.. I'm on aprox. 1k rounds of mixed variety. Taken apart to clean at 25 ,lubed and put back together. . Haven't taken it apart since. Just some light lubing between shoots

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  • 4 weeks later...

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