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JediTodd

Beretta 1301 Comp

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Relevant only in CA due to Federal laws yes, but relevant for folks in all states competing in Open. :ph34r:

Edited by Neomet

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I ghost my home defense shotgun. Why have an 18" barrel if you are going to run +5 extension. Ghost loading isn't irrelevant, just not as necessary for Multigun.

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oscarmike, that's kinda what I was wondering if it was possible. My question I guess would be, is there a scenario where you can shorten the spring enough with out compromising the feeding, where you would get almost a 11th round but not quite and successfully ghost load through the port like I was accidentally doing it. Guess for the price of a spring I could experiment after I get my + 5.

I am pretty sure if you have a round in the chamber and a round on the lifter and a round in the tube when you pull the trigger you are going to have a nice double feed that is going to be a huge pain in the ass to fix while on the clock. I could be wrong though...

The round on the lifter keeps the other round in the tube. It would not double feed. It's no different than normal. If it did, what would stop the shotgun from double feeding a round every time you fired the gun?
I know during dry fire using dummy rounds if I don't get one all the way in the tube and it slides under the lifter and I pull the trigger it releases another from the tube which puts one and a half on the lifter which will not allow it to move. During live fire there is not a round on the lifter when you pull the trigger. Edited by Paul-the new guy

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And she just got back from C-Rums with the opened loading port and welded lifter

IMG_20140506_112032_zps0dk4veg6.jpg

The Nordic +5 with the spring cut to 12" past the tube still wasn't allowing 10 rounds so instead of cutting more spring and risk reliability we added a xxl cap .... This is on the 21" model

IMG_20140506_111651_zpskqgruomd.jpg

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

is the carrier catch missing from the carrier?

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oscarmike, that's kinda what I was wondering if it was possible. My question I guess would be, is there a scenario where you can shorten the spring enough with out compromising the feeding, where you would get almost a 11th round but not quite and successfully ghost load through the port like I was accidentally doing it. Guess for the price of a spring I could experiment after I get my + 5.

I am pretty sure if you have a round in the chamber and a round on the lifter and a round in the tube when you pull the trigger you are going to have a nice double feed that is going to be a huge pain in the ass to fix while on the clock. I could be wrong though...

The round on the lifter keeps the other round in the tube. It would not double feed. It's no different than normal. If it did, what would stop the shotgun from double feeding a round every time you fired the gun?
I know during dry fire using dummy rounds if I don't get one all the way in the tube and it slides under the lifter and I pull the trigger it releases another from the tube which puts one and a half on the lifter which will not allow it to move. During live fire there is not a round on the lifter when you pull the trigger.

Call Beretta and send it in. It is malfunctioning. The shell on the lifter keeps another shell from releasing from the tube. If you look at it, you can see how it's supposed to work.

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There is nothing wrong with your gun. You are babying the bolt. Let it go and lock in. Go to the range. Stop using dummy shells for a while. Yes, when you pull the trigger, it lets a round out, which drops onto the carrier and the carrier spring moves the shell up so the bolt can slam it home and lock in the locking lugs. And yes, there is no shell on the lifter Except when you are ghost loaded. Which will only be at the start of a course of fire, whether its at the range or in your house. When you are doing this at home, with dummy shells, you create a very slow, unnatural ejection (by pulling back on the bolt) and shell release. Slingshot it back. If you do this with live shells, when you pull the trigger-it goes bang like it usually does and the action cycles very very fast on this gun. You are creating an artificial situation with dummy shells. You need to stop using them for the time being. Or just forget about ghost loading. DVC

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If there is a round on the lifter and you pull the trigger, a round should not release from the tube, period. Doesn't matter if it is live fire or dummy rounds.

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OK. I'm giving up. That is exactly how semiautomatic works. Good luck to you.

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If there is a round on the lifter and you pull the trigger, a round should not release from the tube, period. Doesn't matter if it is live fire or dummy rounds.

Can you replicate the issues using live ammo at the range? If not I wouldnt worry about it.

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No its there

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Must be one of those new invisible one's

2wq69om.jpg

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If you press it, it lowers the lifter and hides away in the trigger group.

Cool, getting mine in a few days, wanted to make sure there wasn't some high speed mod I hadn't read about

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Is there any way to put a sling mount on with out using the barrel clamp? Or do you guys just install a barrel clamp when you need a sling and leave the clamp off when you don't?

Edited by xtremekramer

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Carbon arms makes a sling mount for the Nordic tube that screws into the cap. Don't know how well it works though.

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I have leave the clamp on mine and use a simple swivel stud screwed into the center hole, some washers to time it and red Loctite. When installing the extension tube I tighten the coupling first and then thread on the tube leaving it 1/2 turn from hand tight and then install the clamp. So on my gun the clamp has no effect on slug POI from cold to hot.

Thanks to Dan S. for the 1/2 turn info.

David E.

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Can anybody tell me how the shell catch is held? I removed the pin that looks like it is holding the pin in that the shell catch pivots on, but that pin wasn't budging and I didn't want to mess something up by beating on it.

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Oh and ghost loading is great for hunting. 4 in the gun with the plug in.

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Can anybody tell me how the shell catch is held? I removed the pin that looks like it is holding the pin in that the shell catch pivots on, but that pin wasn't budging and I didn't want to mess something up by beating on it.

You already have the cross pin out, right?

Remove the bolt. Take a stout paper clip (bend as needed) and push it out from the ejection port down towards the bottom of the receiver. It’s a tapered pin

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I looked for low recoil shells at sportsman's warehouse and struck out. So I picked up 4 different brands of shells. Shot all 4 on sunday in my new gun. They all worked flawlessly. The guy showing me how to shoot skeet let me shoot his over under. I commented on how little recoil it had. He said he reloads his own at 3/4 oz and roughly 1250 fps. Told him my story about trying to find low recoil shells and he handed me two and said here try these. The first one fired didn't eject before the second one tried to feed. Cleared it and fired the second round and it ejected just fine. He mentioned maybe working a load up for me that would cycle better. Would be pretty cool since I just met the guy 2 hours earlier. Is any one running a 3/4 oz load or some other type of low recoil shell that cycles well in your 1301? It was quite nice how little recoil was felt on his two shells and how little overall movement it appeared to have.de4d18a6-357f-496c-b894-3409b02f4072.jpg

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