Paul-the new guy Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Which is the best choke tu use with Winchester Super X Rifle Slugs (hollow point 2 3/4 Inch, 1600, 1oz) and with 00 buck? It depends on the stage. Most of the time you are shooting more than just slugs or buck on the stage. You kind of have to choke for the majority of the targets. On a stage filled with close targets I shoot with no choke, even if there are a couple of slug targets mixed in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntenseImage Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 So the Mrs just finished up @ Brownell's Lady 3-Gun and walked away from the prize table with a new 1301 ... This time the 24" model to go along with her current 21". The one she has now was worked on by CRums but I'm wondering who else out there is doing more extensive loading port work (ie moving the serial to really hog out the port and possibly even reverse the ramp at the front)? Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 In playing with mine, it seems that if you were loading right hand quads (strong hand in my case) you would improve the loading port with an asymmetrical cut. Meaning the left side of the loading port more sculpted than the right (due to the serial number). When doing strong handed quads with mine I do have to rotate my thumb a bit to get the best result, that cut would eliminate the thumb rotation. Now I have not started filing mine down yet as it is hard to bubba up a $1K shotgun. Here is the idea of aggression stolen from elsewhere. I do not think it would limit weak hand loading with the differing cuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flannigun Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 That looks Jesse T's M2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 It is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladyvalea Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) Guys ! I was cleaning the 1301 and I accidentally pulled this deal out ? I think it's the exhaust valve assembly ? Well since it was out ! I cleaned off all the carbon build up --[emoji15] but I'm not sure how to insert back ? It has some rings that rotate [emoji19] does this look right ? I pushed it back [emoji33]. I couldn't find much online Of course the manual is not much help : it did say Never disassemble the exhaust valve assembly Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk Edited November 4, 2014 by Ladyvalea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladyvalea Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) 1301 did great at Lady3gun.. had my first malfuntion! the bolt would not open after last shot...and of course I manually opened it and port load and the shell went in all jacked up.. so i dumped the shotgun in barrel and continued on with rifle...It was my last stage so I didn't get to shoot it again . Edited November 4, 2014 by Ladyvalea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 That is the piston. It's in right. The exhaust valve assembly is what it is in. The manual says not to lubricate the piston and housing, but is does say to wet the whole thing down with Beretta gun oil and wipe clean. So I clean with Fireclean and it's "moist" when I put it back. I think they mean squirting oil or CLP in there like we do on the bolt. I also just put a little Fireclean on my finger and lube the magazine tube very lightly. Worked really well this past Saturday at our local 3 Gun match, ( same day of your 3G at South River) and it was freezing cold all day in Jacksonville. Let us know when you figure out why it didn't lock back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powderman81 Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 I'm wanting to improve the angle that I can load shells into the tube on my 1301...has anyone removed any metal from the inside lip of the magazine tube? the area I'm talking about is the lip that holds the shell follower from coming out...I'd like to remove and polish the top part say from 10 to 2 if it were a clock. I think that the remainder would be sufficient to hold the follower; anybody try that yet? Thanks! Powderman81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billdozer Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 No, but after I get my gun back from Beretta I'm gonna move the serial number and take the loading port lower so it allows my technique not to be perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I'm down to rubbing the numbers here. Not sure you want to go into the tube. Be prepared to buy a new gun if you do. But hey-it might work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntenseImage Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Check out sevenxarmory on FB ... They move the serial and really hog out the port. My wife's 1301 was done by CRums but we are sending it to 7x now for more Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Looked at that. Let us know how that works. Looks like a flat end to port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntenseImage Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) From 7xarmory Edited November 7, 2014 by IntenseImage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 It doesn't need to be taken down back by the trigger guard. Polishing it like that grabs your skin worse that if it is left a little rough. In this case, rough is smooth... Also, they should bevel that pin hole with a larger drill bit or it will grab your pinky... The hand guard also could use some work on that one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedevil008 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) It doesn't need to be taken down back by the trigger guard. Polishing it like that grabs your skin worse that if it is left a little rough. In this case, rough is smooth... Also, they should bevel that pin hole with a larger drill bit or it will grab your pinky... The hand guard also could use some work on that one... What would you do to the handguard? Edited November 7, 2014 by bluedevil008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaronsdmf Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Anyone make a 1301 for open yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 You grind a taper on the handguard so it doesn't have that edge sticking up to catch the shells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedevil008 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Never thought about that, it makes sense, though. I've never noticed it being a problem. I'll pay attention to see if it causes me any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meanzbullet Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I smoothed the area in the tube you are talking about. I didn't remove the lip but I beveled the side where the shells go in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffgats Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I got my 1301 back from our local smith ( TACORDNANCE) Newmarket- Find his work very good. Side question on my Slugs POI, @ 25 yrds,Carlson IC extended choke Remy Managed reoil Slug shoots 4-5" high and 2" left WW Slugs/1600fps- 2"high and 1" left all groups are within 1.5" would shooting @ 50yrds lowers the POI? ALREADY thinking of installing a folding rear sight ( ruger 10/22) to correct my POI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedevil008 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 It's hard to say where your POI would be at 50 yards, but if they're that high at 25, they'll probably be hitting higher at 50. Also, if you want to quad load, you'll want to bring the outside of the receiver walls down quite a bit more than that. It's doable, but for consistent and really fast loads you'll definitely need more taken off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) I agree with bluedevil008. At 25 yds your slug should pretty much go exactly where you aim, give or take a couple inches. Hard to say without actually being there and looking at your shotgun. Not sure why everybody buys Carlson's chokes instead of Beretta, but that may be an issue. Full powered slugs (1600fps), don't really use them much, but at 25 yds. everything should hit the same. Maybe try the choke that came with the the gun? Edited November 9, 2014 by Jadeslade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jadeslade Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Never thought about that, it makes sense, though. I've never noticed it being a problem. I'll pay attention to see if it causes me any problems. Maybe just start by rubbing your hand over everything on the underside of the gun around the loading area and using 600 sandpaper to "deburr" or "break" edges, like you would in a carry gun. That won't take the black finish off , but will cut all sharp edges. Everybody's hands are different , but the hand guard is an impediment most of the time on the second group of 2 in the quad load. I used files and sandpaper, cause I don't have a belt sander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffgats Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I can't go lower with the receiver without touching the serial #, Already change the front sight with Hi viz tri comp, same POI, maybe putting a spacer between the rib and sight would raise the POI. The factory choke has the same POi with Carlson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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