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Glock 34 Follow Up shot is High


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Here is my setup:

Glock 34 Gen 4
Zev Tech Fulcum Trigger
Zev Tech Standard Power Firing Pin Spring
ISMI 15# Spring

SS Guide Rod

Precision Delta 124 FMJ
Tite Group 4.1 at 1.1 OAL
CCI Primer

I am not sure it’s me or the gun is jumping too much. When shooting 2-shots fast, a lot of times my follow up shots will be very high. Many times if I hit the zero on IDPA target my follow up will be a head shot. While they are both zero’s, that’s not what I was pushing for.

I don’t notice it when shooting my Kimber 1911 9mm, Wilson Spec Ops 9mm or a SV2011 45ACP.

I have also tried the Zev Tech blue (12) and red (14) springs (the red spring left paint flecks on in the slide). The 15# ISMI spring seems to settle it down some. My thinking is I need to go to an ISMI 17# spring to see if it helps the jumping.

I know a lot of you use 13 and some all the way down to 11 pound springs. Please don’t just throw out there what is good for you. I’ve read 100’s of threads on what is good for who. What I’m looking for is help in why it’s doing it. If pistol cycles, will a heavier spring help? Could it just be me re-engaging before the gun settles? Does the gun run faster and smoother with heavier loads and stronger springs?

Thanks

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Do you call the second shot when you double tap? After it happens, I certainly can call with out looking that the second shot will be high.

Try calling the second shot - don't "double tap" - see if that helps. :cheers:

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I don't always double tap. But I do rush it some. Why am I only noticing it with my Glock? Is it the weight of the pistol? I see some guys shoot what seems to be powder puff loads and their muzzle doesn't move at all. I like heavier loads.

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By adjusting your recoil spring you can get your double taps with one initial sight picture come very close to each other. In your case you need a heavier recoil spring.

Best way to do it is to have someone else watch to see where the 2nd shot goes - if it is higher than the first you need a heavier spring, lower a lighter spring.

At some distance you will then need to go to two sight pictures, this will vary with the individual.

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PF? sounds too hot. Rule of thumb I was taught by someone who won lots of titles with Glocks was G35-15 lb spring and G34 -14 spring. With power factor for the G34 132-133. Whats with the Zev trigger. some people use them-not sure if they are good. Sounds like your breaking shot too early. But really it sounds too hot. Are you fighting it?

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Steve, thanks for the input. We are practicing Saturday and I will have someone watch.

Jade, The last time I check the PF it was around 123 to 125. I bumped up my load from 3.9 to 4.1. I'll check it again tomorrow.

I'll take some of those magic springs too. Isn't this posted in the magic springs forum?

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I am using 4.1 of titegroup with a Montana gold 124 CMJ at 1.155 and am getting 132 out of my 1911 and 136 out of my glock. I would guess yours would be a decent amount higher as your only loading to 1.1 which seems very short.

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I am not sure it’s me or the gun is jumping too much.

It's you.

Ben, please give me your input. What do you think I need to do to correct it?

http://www.mattburkett.com/from-the-archives-timing-drills/

You might want to investigate the grip and stance notes too: http://www.doublealpha.biz/courses-tips/matts-tips/

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I don't always double tap. But I do rush it some. Why am I only noticing it with my Glock? Is it the weight of the pistol? I see some guys shoot what seems to be powder puff loads and their muzzle doesn't move at all. I like heavier loads.

The muzzle not moving doesn't always mean they are shooting powder puff loads, btw.

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I am not sure it’s me or the gun is jumping too much.

It's you.

Ben, please give me your input. What do you think I need to do to correct it?

I'll tell you about my recent experience. My sights were jumping up and to the right then dipping down, slowing down my followup shots. I blamed my recoil spring, gun, choice of caliber, and bullet/powder combination. I even considered switching to a Beretta; these were dark times for me.

I finally realized I had stopped crush-gripping the gun, because I had gotten lazy in dry fire. Immediately when I started gripping the gun harder, the sights again began to jump straight up and back into the notch as fast as I could pull the trigger.

Grip harder.

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Ben would tell you you suck. And then he might tell you it's grip consistency and pressure that matters. If you loosen up bad shit can happen.

Sometimes I can double tap (yeah not calling 2nd shot) and get snake eyes in practice. Often I can't FORCE myself to miss on a double tap. However when I'm not paying attention... wahla!! Alpha Mikes or Alpha Head! Grip, grip, grip.

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As mentioned above. Given a consistant grip & pressure. You can tune the gun for POI with a recoil spring change.

If you are coming back on target & stopping high, install a heavier recoil spring. If you are coming back on target & the gun is stopping lower than ideal sight picture, install a lighter recil spring.

This is tuned to a particular load, so a change in ammo, may require you to go through the same process again.

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I always used magic springs.

Selling any?

Just send me cash. I can then confer, onto your current springs, a magnificent manifestation of magical thaumaturgy.

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Kyle, thanks for the links. I'll give the timing drill a workout this weekend. I do find myself relaxing my grip from time to time and sending off flyers.

I'm left handed, which I know is my biggest problem, so Im going to look closely at my right (weak) hand grip.

Ordered a 17# spring too. Ready for the weekend!

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I don't always double tap. But I do rush it some. Why am I only noticing it with my Glock? Is it the weight of the pistol? I see some guys shoot what seems to be powder puff loads and their muzzle doesn't move at all. I like heavier loads.

The muzzle not moving doesn't always mean they are shooting powder puff loads, btw.

Yes, it just looks like they are shooting light loads. They have great control.

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