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zev


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thank you called and they said to send it back to them for a replacement and would send a new one that would work no offense the guy seemed he could careless after hearing my situation but yet said return it no problem

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thank you called and they said to send it back to them for a replacement and would send a new one that would work no offense the guy seemed he could careless after hearing my situation but yet said return it no problem

My apologies,

Corrective action has been taken on our part.

(Fear is a management tool too)

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I just ordered this set up grom GW. I'm really looking forward to trying out. Especially after my first competition with my completely stock 35. Pretty ugly.

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thank you called and they said to send it back to them for a replacement and would send a new one that would work no offense the guy seemed he could careless after hearing my situation but yet said return it no problem

My apologies,

Corrective action has been taken on our part.

(Fear is a management tool too)

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thank you no apology needed maybe he was busy I will get that in the mail . but I am curious as to no reset with that connector any ideas ?

My guess would be that the angle on the connector was wrong. At least on my G35 if the connector is too flush with the housing the trigger bar will not engage correctly. I have seen a couple Glocks double or go full auto due to this.

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Glocks have a Polymer frame (Plastic)

as well as a Polymer Ejector housing (plastic)

each of these are cast to within an acceptable tolerance to Glock so that with the modular parts (No Individual fitting necessary of trigger parts) they can achieve a 5.5 lb trigger pull

with there infamous 1/2" travel.

The fact that you have two parts that have a moderate amount of allowable tolerance and then matted up with a slide that is holding the striker (also held within two Polymer sleeves)

you will not get each and every Glock to have the same trigger to striker contact and engagement. (yes we are talking thousandths of an inch,

but that is why some triggers just drop in and some need a wee bit of tuning.)

when we started making our triggers and strikers we tightened up the tolerance a lot. when we ship out the triggers we set Pre-travel and over-travel to work in all Glocks,

. . .in reality they will drop in to about 85% with no adjustment necessary, the other 15% are subject to what we call around the shop "Tolerance Stacking"

that is where all of the variables in the polymer parts start going against you, and subsequently you will need to adjust Pre-travel and or Over-travel to correctly tune your trigger.

there are times when a different connector or a lighter trigger return spring will overcome the variables in the tolerances and . . . .you get a fantastic trigger.

I've built and tuned countless 1911 triggers as well as quite a few S&W triggers, those are realtivly simple, start at step "A" and work your way to step "Z" . . . . your done,

Glocks can be like a match trigger on a Hi-Power when they are at their worst. . . (you get a lot of practice taking them apart and reassembling.)

the way we make the connector and the proper surfaces are all machine bent over a mandrel / jig. so the bends are consistent,

due to polishing some times there is a very slight tolerance variation, with the tolerance staking of the Frame & Slide taken into account could be why one connector will work where another will not produce a sub 2 lb trigger.

and on a Gen 2 two pin frame . . . good luck . . . just send it in

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