Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

how do you clean the striker channel?


cpa5oh
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've got a 34 with Jager striker and I'm running either the 4.5 or 5.0 lb striker spring and I've started to get light strikes with Tula primers (wasn't getting light strikes up till yesterday.) Cleaned the striker channel (probably not the right name for it) and noticed that, in the deepest portion, there was some gunk (I shoot filty nasty lead.) Kinda hard to get down in there with anything I've got - copper brushes have a tip that keeps me from getting all the way in there. Anybody have any tips?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First things first -- do you lube/oil the striker channel? I used to because I was a non-GLOCK shooter and had learned that if it moved, oil it.

Not so with the striker channel in a GLOCK. Lubing it will collect crap and slow the striker and produce light strikes. With enough lube, it won't even take a collection of gunk. The lube will create a hydraulic effect in the tightly fitted channel and slow the striker, causing light strikes.

Do not lube the striker, it's protruding foot, or the extractor (has a direct path to the striker tunnel and will wick the oil into it).

If properly lubricated, meaning, 'none at all', the striker channel and associated parts should be cleaned with some Q-tips if you feel like it. Otherwise, leave it alone. Don't lube the spring or striker before reinserting. They run best and most reliably when dry.

If that doesn't cure your ills, put the factory parts back in and see if the problem goes away. If it does, chalk it up to another case of an after market vendor not really being as good an engineer as Mr. Glock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the tips!

I do not lube the striker channel (is that what it's really called or did I invent a name for it?) :-) I think I read that's the rule for all "channels" where a striker/firing pin goes.

I have considered a dry lubricant like Frog Lube...or the graphite spray lube I use all over my 550 press.

I'm just figuring that since the gun just started light striking that something had to have changed...and dirt and gunk definitely changed. Same thing happened with my 35 - no light strikes for about 500 rounds...then I started getting light strikes. It's a problem because I can't get my hands on Federals at all...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use q tips and a can of compressed air, also if you are using aftermarket springs it might be a good idea to replace the striker spring if you are going to keep using hard primers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have considered a dry lubricant like Frog Lube...or the graphite spray lube I use all over my 550 press.

No lube in the striker channel. None.

I use Frog Lube on the other contact points, but don't put ANY lube (a.k.a., dust/gunk collector) in the striker channel.

If you have an after market setup that says it requires it, and then it doesn't run, well....that's pretty easy math, ain't it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have considered a dry lubricant like Frog Lube...or the graphite spray lube I use all over my 550 press.

No lube in the striker channel. None.

I use Frog Lube on the other contact points, but don't put ANY lube (a.k.a., dust/gunk collector) in the striker channel.

If you have an after market setup that says it requires it, and then it doesn't run, well....that's pretty easy math, ain't it?

Thanks...no aftermarket company whose parts I use mention any kind of lube, wet or dry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure you don't clean out the firing pin channel with anything oversized, like a bore brush. There is a plastic firing pin channel liner in the forward end of the channel, and a brush may pull it back out the rear of the slide. Once they are removed, it is best to replace them (recommended at the Glock armorer's course. I second the alcohol and cotton swabs. I so not use any solvent other than alcohol in cleaning the firing pin channel extractor spring channel and firing pin safety plunger hole.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, realize that with a lightened striker spring you will get light strikes with hard primers. Tulsa are probably the hardest ones out there. Most of us who run lightened striker springs use Federal 100 SPPs only. Last time I tried a box of 100 Tulas I got 8 light strikes. Can't remember the last light strike I got using Fed 100s for the last year ... They are the softest primers there are ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have used a "bore" brush in the channel liner, get the liner replaced. I use Tetra cleaner spray (but am about to move to another product as tetra is getting hard to find here). Check the striker cups as they could be damaged and dragging. Replaceing the liner is something I let my local armorer do but the cups are no big deal. As for cotton swabs, I use swabs for cleaning electronics. I get them at Fry's. They are slightly undersized and don't shed (ok...not like soft swabs). I used to work in the Semi-conductor industry and was able to get by hands on an ultrasonic cleaner. It helps clean even the most stubborn crud.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This may or may not be a helpful hint.

You can remove the channel liner by pushing a .38 caliber cotton bore mop into the liner and twisting it as you slowly remove it. It's just tight enough to pull out the liner. Be ready to replace the liner if you do this! Getting a scratched up liner out will give you an opportunity to spray the channel out and get it pristine.

Then do not use any lubricant at all on the channel or the striker assembly.

Chris

Edited by cohland
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clean my gun every 3k RDS or so. I shot lead. Have light weight springs and run CCI primers. The channel is not dirty at cleaning but I just use a q-tip to wipe it out with hoppes or whatever I happen to have. Key is to use several dry q-tips to insure you get all the cleaner out. Never a light strike if I do my part loading the ammo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about an ultrasonic cleaner with a nonreactive cleaner/soap? Works wonders on my slides and small parts. :)

Just dry it out well before reassembly, lube what needs to be lubed, and party on. I love my ultrasonic cleaners! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I picked up some of the Hobby Q-Tips, they don't fuzz as much and have a pointy tip,

Im with niceash.. I use a pointed cotton tip as well. Unfortunately I go to the local beauty supply to get them or have the girlfriend pick them up for me.. They work great..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned already ?

A scuffed-up Channel Liner can easily cause intermittent light-strikes !

For those of us that run other than OEM parts in there, it's one of the items that should be r/r'd after

the end of the season.

Almost always, the area right behind the opening to the breech-face accumulates the most/worst gunk !

It's easier to get that area squeaky-clean if the liner is not in place. Like the fellow said, they're not difficult

to remove plus don't cost much and it is something one should always have a couple of on hand.

Believe it to be better with the current guns but no so long ago, if you took a spanking new gun and popped the guts out of the slide you'd find the channel and striker as a unit 'almost' dripping with what appeared to be very light and dirty machine oil !

Have always "Lubed" the striker and its assembly with one of the oils or "Metal Treatments" designed to be applied then wiped completely off with almost zero ill-effects with using WIN, FED or Fiocchi primers but only

use plated or jacketed bullets having no exposed lead at the base and "Marine" Spring-Cups and right now everything in there besides the liner, spacer & cups are Zev parts. On the other end of the rainbow once tried

a couple K of a type of "Black" bullet and even with trying several different powders at the rec of the maker the gun Never ran reliably until going back to original loads and cleaned well...

Edited by Bugs Bunny
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...