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Glock 17 GEN 4 issues


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Just got a brand new glock 17 gen 4. Put in a ghost 3.5 connector and the trigger would not reset consistently. Reinstalled the factory connector. Had a few issues where the trigger would not reset, but now it seems to be resetting fine.

I also tried to replace the gen 4 recoil spring and guide rod. Got the gen 4 adaptor and installed a ss guide rod with a 13lb recoil spring. As you pull the trigger the slide moves back about a 1/4".

I really want to set this up with a lighter recoil spring. Any suggestions? I am new to glocks.

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The slide movement is pretty normal. As for it not resetting, is this one of the connectors that you need to fit the solid trigger stop? If so, you haven't taken enough off...

This is supposed to be a drop in connector, but maybe it needs to be adjusted anyway.

The slide movement is definitely not normal.

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I haven't dabbled with glocks in a while but don't the striker spring need to be changed also if the recoil spring is swapped out with a lighter one?

Will that cause occasional light primer strikes?

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It will hence why some guys I know of shoot with federal primers only.

What I found out with glocks is once you change something to a aftermarket spec, everything else that interacts with that part needs to be changed also.

The Glock design works as is straight out of the box (hence why I'm getting one as a house gun).

Once you change something, now you gotta start tinkering to find out what the ideal combination is to get it back to the level of reliability as it came from the factory.

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If I want to run a 13lb recoil spring, what striker spring should I switch to? What about extended striker options? Am I going to have to use a heavier recoil spring in order to have reliable ignition with most primer brands?

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I use a 13jb ISMI Recoil spring and a Wolff 4.5 Striker spring.. I have the Jager Striker it comes with a tiny bit longer tip. This Combo i have been using for well over 10,000 rounds and any ammo i choose and never a problem or light strike..

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not sure if you have resolved this issue yet.

I had some issue with a Ghost connector. I installed just the connector in my G21. I noticed the trigger break was almost at the frame. I switched back to the original connector and break was fine.

After comparing the connector with two others I came to the conclusion that QC is not great in the basic Ghost connectors. None of the 3 were exactly the same size! the angle on the small bar was different also. When I say there weren't the same size I mean the small tabs and edges at the top of the connector were noticeably different sizes.

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If you run a lighter recoil spring, you will have some movement in the slide. To get rid of this will take a combination of spring and parts tune. As far as the connectors go, like all glock parts, no two seem to be exactly the same, nature of the beast. Reliable reset also has to do with the specs of your slide, slide/frame play, trigger bar nose geometry, and connector specs. All of these parts must interact correctly in order to achieve custom glock "perfection". Most guns running aftermarket parts are working because several of these specs are over spec. On the flip side, if two of them are under, you will have issues (that is where you are). An excessive 25 cent trigger job can take the trigger bar out of spec, not saying that is where you are, just an example.

You will need to measure all of the tabs on your connectors. The connector that resets most of the time is very close to being the correct length. Probably within .05-.07

Just because it has started working does not mean it is within spec, just that some tension has been lost and it is bouncing. Eventually it will probably fail to reset at an inconvenient time.

Pm me if you need help with anything.

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