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What non-Dillon resize die should I get?


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I've loaded about 3,000 rounds of 9mm with my XL650 since getting it a couple months ago, and I've determined that I need a different resizing die. From things I've read online, I'm not alone in this. The issue with the Dillon die, when compared with others, is that it doesn't go down as deep into the case as other dies do. This causes occasional failure to chamber issues when the brass is bulged too much at the head, and this Dillon die cannot correct it.

I did get a Lee die and loaded about 500 rounds with that. They all chambered fine, and because of my less than perfect polishing, I was able to clearly see the difference in depth between the Dillon and the Lee. Unfortunately, the Lee die is a bit of a pain, because it's much shorter than the Dillon, leaving about 1/2 a thread for the retaining nut. Ideally, I'd have a die that is as long as the Dillon and also goes as deep as the Lee.

Has anyone else with this problem found the ideal die to use?

Thanks

p.s. Other than this issue, I still have newlywed googly eyes when I step out into my garage to spend time with my press.

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I too want to know what I should get. I'm about to start ordering everything for my set up.

I have read about the EGW U die and some full length resizing die. What's preferred to pick up?

I have had good luck with the u-die. It's not flared out as much as the Dillon die so you need to make sure you have good alignment with the case. I run Glocked brass and range pick up through it. The u-die will size the case to work with any gun I have. I like running the u-die so I can do it all in one process on my 650 rather than having to prep the case on one machine and then run it through my progressive loader.

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Take the Lee lock ring off, remove the o-ring, and re-install the lock ring with the o-ring groove pointing to the top of the die.

The "best" resiziing die I have found for getting furthest down the case is Hornady's New Dimension sizing die. Also, the TiN makes sizing 9x19 a little smoother.

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Keep in mind, putting the lock nut on the bottom of the tool head means the lock nut threads will take all of the force and not the tool head threads. Maybe a problem, maybe not.

Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

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The die is still threaded in the tool head. However, there is always a little slack. When you tighten the lock nut, the slack is taken up. When the nut is on top, it pulls up on the die... and up is where the force goes. When the nut is on bottom, it pulls down on the die... but the force still goes up during a cycle.

When the nut is on top, the nut is taking up the slack and allowing the tool head threads take the force (in addition to locking the die in place).

When the nut is on bottom, it is taking up the slack in the other direction. Only when the nuts threads flex and/or give out will the force get transferred to the tool head during a cycle. (All force tries to push up on the dies... except on the upstroke when pulling the case out of the die.)

Not saying this is a problem... just something to think about.

Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

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Keep in mind, it is not only the very few threads on the lock nut that is taking the force, it is also the few threads on the die that are mating to the lock nut. If you experience your die coming a little loose, and having to re-tighten your lock nut, this is the reason.

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