chp5 Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Upgrade to 650 from 550? Is it worth it? I have a 550 that has been bullet proof. I get very frustrated when reloaders have problems, so the 550 has been great. I’m thinking of upgrading to a 650 for more speed. I’ve heard of people that love their 650’s and some that have been frustrated with them. I am not very mechanically inclined. So, is it worth it to upgrade or just stick with my tried-and-true 550? Thanks for your thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynn jones Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 cy, if you can afford it, upgrade. you won't regret it. but keep your 550 for other calibres. lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul B Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 What Lynn said. I've got a 650 and a 550 side by side on my bench and the 650 is better in every way. The primer feed alone is worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leroy Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 I have loaded on my friends 550 good old press for sure. I now have a xl650 with all the bells and whistles.. It it a great press. I did have a few primer problems at first just took some twiking runs smooth now. But now I have an old rl 1050 man it is sweet. The 650 has a lifetime warranty where the 1050 dosen't just one year.. I think you would be very happy with the 650 the case feeder is awsome. Leroy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 If you aren't mechanically inclined, and you get frustrated easily, stick with the 550. Just my 2 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Cy, Do you load way more of one caliber than the others? I started out loading 9mm, 38 special and .45ACP on a pair of Square Deal Bs. I upgraded to a 650 for loading the 9mm, when I got serious about this sport. Got to the point where I couldn't stand loading .45 or 38 special on the SDB anymore so I got the conversions for those calibers as well and sold off the SDBs. Eventually I found a deal on a 1050 and set that up in 9mm for production --- my most used round. The 650 switches between 45, 38, and open 9mm loads --- with a spare toolhead still set-up in 9mm production, in case I break something on the 1050 on match morning. I HATE reloading --- that's why I'm so happy with the 1050, because it wastes less time that could be spent doing something truly useful..... In any event case feeders rock! If you just need to radically speed up one caliber, hold out for the 1050 and keep the 550 on the bench next to it for the smaller volume calibers. If you want a faster all around solution the 650 is it. Either way, prepare to spend some time figuring how they work, getting the adjustments down, etc. Make sure you have an ammo reserve in case this takes longer than expected..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Larry Cazes Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 I agree with Nick. Keep your 550B and hold out until you can find a good deal on a 1050. This is my plan for now. I load both .40sw and .38super right now on my 550 and it is not so inefficient that I cant hold out for the best eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reneet Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Since I got my 650 (within a year of their introduction), my 550 has sat idle. I keep it there in case of a 650 breakdown. I'm sure if it was capable of feeling, it would have an inferiority complex. Not sure how to address the other part of your question. I'll assume that you can take apart your firearm and reassemble and in which case you're most likely mechanically minded enough to troubleshoot (either by yourself or with help of Dillon tech) and minor problems that may crop up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 There is a lot to a 650, but the instructions are great and tech support is second to none. You can easily make 800 in an hour with the primer tubes ready in advance. UPGRADE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted October 14, 2004 Author Share Posted October 14, 2004 Thanks for the replies! I just called BE and bought a 650. BTW Renee - thanks for the powder! Cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted October 31, 2004 Author Share Posted October 31, 2004 I received my 650 with casefeeder etc. from BE/Dillon a couple of days ago. Wow - it's great! It has some quirks that the 550 doesn't (e.g., it takes 4-5 strokes before the primers start appearing when you first load the primers), but it seems to be a big step above the 550. Nothing against the 550 - mine has been bullet proof, but the 650 with the casefeeder just seems to be a faster, smoother set up. I think I'll keep the 550 so I can load two calibers without changing tool heads, but the 550 likely won't see much action anymore. If anyone is thinking about upgrading from a 550 to a 650, I'd recommend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 It has some quirks that the 550 doesn't (e.g., it takes 4-5 strokes before the primers start appearing when you first load the primers), but it seems to be a big step above the 550. I think I'll keep the 550 so I can load two calibers without changing tool heads, but the 550 likely won't see much action anymore. Eight strokes to be precise. and it takes two strokes to get cases to the priming station. My procedure when starting with a totally empty press is to fill primers, cycle handle six times, activate case feeder, start loading..... I'm a big believer in loading on match morning --- so I think having a spare press set and ready to go is a good thing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gm iprod Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Loading on the morning of the match is a bit difficult if you have to drive 100 miles to the match, and get a up a little late. If you live real close to the range this is fine. Make the ammo the night before (not midnight) and on the exact set up that you used the last time you sighted in. Less stress, more likely to reduce up stuffs and more confidence in what you are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted October 31, 2004 Author Share Posted October 31, 2004 It has some quirks that the 550 doesn't (e.g., it takes 4-5 strokes before the primers start appearing when you first load the primers), but it seems to be a big step above the 550. I think I'll keep the 550 so I can load two calibers without changing tool heads, but the 550 likely won't see much action anymore. Eight strokes to be precise. and it takes two strokes to get cases to the priming station. My procedure when starting with a totally empty press is to fill primers, cycle handle six times, activate case feeder, start loading..... I'm a big believer in loading on match morning --- so I think having a spare press set and ready to go is a good thing.... Nik - that assumes that you have no brass already in the tube, correct? Otherwise, you can't do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted October 31, 2004 Share Posted October 31, 2004 Cy, Yes --- that's why I specified totally empty press --- i.e. no brass or primers. I also always had a supply of maybe 50-100 resized and deprimed cases sitting in a bin under the bullet tray ---- for those occasions where the case feeder refused to feed a case. I found it easier to insert a prepped empty at Station 2, rather than dealing with the unused primer shooting down the ramp and launching itself into space.... Loading 9s using the .40 case feeder parts solved almost all of my occasional case feeding baubles; if you have a problem feeding .40s I'd suggest trying the .45 parts. Most of my jams were caused by a grain or two of tumbling media trying to pass through the funnel with the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tri Burst Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 It has some quirks that the 550 doesn't (e.g., it takes 4-5 strokes before the primers start appearing when you first load the primers), but it seems to be a big step above the 550. I think I'll keep the 550 so I can load two calibers without changing tool heads, but the 550 likely won't see much action anymore. Eight strokes to be precise. and it takes two strokes to get cases to the priming station. My procedure when starting with a totally empty press is to fill primers, cycle handle six times, activate case feeder, start loading..... I'm a big believer in loading on match morning --- so I think having a spare press set and ready to go is a good thing.... Just cycle the primer disk actuator arm 6 times. No need to pull the handle. And it's 12 pulls of the arm to empty the primer sytem after the buzzer has sounded, that is with small primers, Don't remember what it is with large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yocum Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 I've been reloading several calibers on my 550B for a few years now. My high volume caliber is .45 and I reload it in FMJ, LRN, and LSWC all with different powder charges. I have been contemplating getting a seperate machine for this caliber. Of the 650 and 1050, which is easier to adjust powder charge and bullet seating depth? I've also thought about just seperate tool heads for the different bullet types. Thoughts? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Hayden Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 I think the 550, 650 and 1050, all adjust the seating depth (Die adjustment), and powder (they use the same mechanism) the same.. Toolheads for the 550 are the cheapest, and it goes up as the press gets bigger. For bullet types (seating only) try the Redding Comp Die, it adjusts between profiles very fast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mg1199 Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 if you're going to get a separate machine just for a single caliber (45), then i would recommend the 1050 if your budget allows for it, primarily for speed. I was able to load significantly faster than i did on my 650. having all the operations performed on the downstroke speeds things up tremendously for me. To answer your question as to which is machine would be easier to adjust the powder charge and bullet seating depth, they are both the same. Both of the toolheads have adquate clearance access the the powder charge and seating station. The powder charge adjustment on both the 650 and 1050 is the same as what you are familiar with on the 550. If you use the same bullet seating die on the 550 as on the 650/1050, nothing has changed. If you want to make it easier for you on the bullet seating depth, I would recommend what BerKim suggested - Redding Competition Seating die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 I'm a little bit up in the air on this subject, myself. I'll be buying a press in a few months. I've loaded on both, and I can't decide if the 650 is really worth the extra money for me (it's almost twice as expensive, when you throw the case feeder in - and I can't see *not* having the casefeed...). Now that they've resolved the primer slide issues on the 550, my only real beef w/ that press is gone. The 650 still has some quirks, but they're livable, too. Bullet feed will be available (eventually) for the 650. Casefeed appears like it will be available (eventually) for the 550. It comes down to basically having auto-index, and I actually found that to be slightly disadvantageous for loading compressed .38 Super loads - it can get messy if you're not really smooth with your stroke. Decisions, decisions.... I'm currently leaning towards the 550, but we'll see... The allure of the "dark side" (ie, speed...) is still calling me like a siren on the rocks, so... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gun Geek Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 I actually found that to be slightly disadvantageous for loading compressed .38 Super loads - it can get messy if you're not really smooth with your stroke.Decisions, decisions.... I'm currently leaning towards the 550, but we'll see... The allure of the "dark side" (ie, speed...) is still calling me like a siren on the rocks, so... Dave Cut a few coils off of the detent spring in this issue goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XRe Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 Cut a few coils off of the detent spring in this issue goes away. Yeah, I figured that out along the way Too bad there's not a tension adjustment for that spring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear23 Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 The info here is great. I just bought a 650 with all the bells and whistles. I grew tired of my 'Lee' press....I would like to press it into oblivion. I will certainly ask here if i have any problems setting it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhunter Posted March 23, 2005 Share Posted March 23, 2005 Just take your time and follow the directions, they are flawless! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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