Oskino Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 (edited) mine is perfect, check your inbox.... also your biggest concern and what you should be checking is your follower in your mag tube. You DO NOT WANT TO REMOVE ANY MATERIAL THAT RETAINS YOU FOLLOWER!!! Edited June 27, 2014 by Oskino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) When taking the loading port forward, go NO CLOSER than EXACTLY 0.750 (3/4 inch) from the front edge of the receiver. The magazine tube is threaded up to a shoulder 0.725 deep into the front. If you cut forward until you hit this shoulder the receiver will be scrap. We use a mill for this operation and have good confidence on hitting this number within .005" . Best way to do it by hand is to remove the hand guard and use a set of dial calipers to scribe a line across the bottom of the receiver at about 0.775 or so just to be safe. That way you have a little room to round the sharp edge without cutting through the lip inside the receiver that keeps the follower from exiting the magazine tube. Post number 690 in this thread has some decent pictures of the forward end of the port mods Edited June 28, 2014 by openclassterror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 When taking the loading port forward, go NO CLOSER than EXACTLY 0.750 (3/4 inch) from the front edge of the receiver. The magazine tube is threaded up to a shoulder 0.725 deep into the front. If you cut forward until you hit this shoulder the receiver will be scrap. We use a mill for this operation and have good confidence on hitting this number within .005" . Best way to do it by hand is to remove the hand guard and use a set of dial calipers to scribe a line across the bottom of the receiver at about 0.775 or so just to be safe. That way you have a little room to round the sharp edge without cutting through the lip inside the receiver that keeps the follower from exiting the magazine tube. Post number 690 in this thread has some decent pictures of the forward end of the port mods yah, what Tom said! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) When taking the loading port forward, go NO CLOSER than EXACTLY 0.750 (3/4 inch) from the front edge of the receiver. The magazine tube is threaded up to a shoulder 0.725 deep into the front. If you cut forward until you hit this shoulder the receiver will be scrap. We use a mill for this operation and have good confidence on hitting this number within .005" . Best way to do it by hand is to remove the hand guard and use a set of dial calipers to scribe a line across the bottom of the receiver at about 0.775 or so just to be safe. That way you have a little room to round the sharp edge without cutting through the lip inside the receiver that keeps the follower from exiting the magazine tube. Post number 690 in this thread has some decent pictures of the forward end of the port mods My 3 Stoeger guns are cut so far forward that I hit the mag tube threads. I'm not sure if that's necessary but it didn't ruin anything. Edited June 28, 2014 by Jesse Tischauser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 The lip that retains the follower goes about 3/4 of the way around the tube mouth. It is cut away on the side where the shell latch is. It is possible to cut away a little bit of the lip here and there, but if more than half of the lip is gone, it is VERY likely for the follower to bind up and jam trying to wedge past what is left. Most guys blend out towards the sides when they notch the bottom forward, and if you remove the lip from the shell catch all the way across the bottom to the far side doing this you might be screwed. I have seen two Benellis so scrapped. How much lip remains on yours going up the side without the shell latch Jesse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankymac Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Attached is one of my latest creations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Man that turned out nice!!...Rock Hill I am in Greenville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 The lip that retains the follower goes about 3/4 of the way around the tube mouth. It is cut away on the side where the shell latch is. It is possible to cut away a little bit of the lip here and there, but if more than half of the lip is gone, it is VERY likely for the follower to bind up and jam trying to wedge past what is left. Most guys blend out towards the sides when they notch the bottom forward, and if you remove the lip from the shell catch all the way across the bottom to the far side doing this you might be screwed. I have seen two Benellis so scrapped. How much lip remains on yours going up the side without the shell latch Jesse? There is a bit missing on the top/side corner opposite the shell catch and in the taint area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Nice stippling work ;spankymac Like to see more pic's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_M Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 There is a bit missing on the top/side corner opposite the shell catch and in the taint area. Where specifically is a shotgun's taint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamriser Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 I just wanted to give a quick shout-out and I figured this would be the most appropriate place to do it. I was shooting MGM Ironman a couple weeks ago and my 930 JM Pro was going down left and right. Out of the 10 stages, I only made it through one without a shotgun malfunction, some costing me as much as 30 seconds. Well, I was back in camp on day two, cleaning my 930 and licking my wounds, and I decided to take a break and go chat with the group camped next to us. Turned out to be Tom (openclassterror) and his son. After talking for a bit Tom sensed (correctly) that I may be in the market for a new shotgun, so he went to his trailer and came back with one of his beautiful Stoeger M3000 rigs. I looked it over for a bit and then offered to buy it on the spot. Unfortunately it was his backup gun, so I had to stick it out with the 930. As soon as I got home I sold my Mossberg and called up Tom to order a new Stoeger. We talked options, and I went with all of the MOA goodies (oversized safety, bolt handle, bolt release, 8-round extended tube, and a trigger job). I opted to do my own load-port work since I have pretty small hands and really aggressive load-port jobs tend to catch my thumb. It's not as pretty as Tom's work, but a few hours with files did nicely. I don't remember the exact timeline, but from the day I called to the day I picked up my beautiful MOA shotgun from my FFL was about a week, give or take. I took it out to test rounds and pattern it, and it ran everything I fed it—even the 1oz Remington stuff. The only thing it didn't like was the RIO #7.5 1oz. RIO low-recoil slugs, however, ran like a champ and hit dead on out to 50-yards (no more 12-inch hold-under like with the 930). This Saturday was my first 3-gun match since Ironman, and the MOA Stoeger ran like a champ. It had absolutely zero malfunctions, and the trigger felt as nice as the one on my AR. I used a small stripe of orange paint on the back of the vent rib (much like Jesse's triangle, but a straight liine) as a rear sight for slugs, and I didn't miss a single slug shot, so I'll call it good. All in all, the shotgun that Tom sent me met every expectation I had and then some. Most of the other people on my squad were running 930's and they were dropping left and right. Two other people from my squad finished the match (which ended with a 37-round shotgun stage) with my new shotgun after their 930's went down one too many times. I have nothing but praise for the M3000 and Tom's immaculate work. Thanks to my new rig I finished second and won... wait for it... a shotgun. Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankymac Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Nice stippling work ;spankymac Like to see more pic's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amr Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Nice job on the stippling looks very well done!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Spankymac ;Thanks I like that pattern , Is that type of stippling aggressive enough. or the old small dot's better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankymac Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Spankymac ;Thanks I like that pattern , Is that type of stippling aggressive enough. or the old small dot's better Thanks for the great comments...... It's pretty aggressive....you're guaranteed to have a positive grip. I've been told by quite a few people it's the only grip enhancement for them. The plastic on the M3K offers a great platform for grip enhancements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Nice work, guys! I like to see the custom touches. Thanks for the kind words Adam. How did the port work turn out? Glad to hear about the high finish, that must have been satisfying after fighting gear at the Ironman I remember back when I used to fight my Remington 1100 wondering a few times how I would have done if it would only run! Have never yet had to wonder with the Stoeger. What did you win? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamriser Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Nice work, guys! I like to see the custom touches. Thanks for the kind words Adam. How did the port work turn out? Glad to hear about the high finish, that must have been satisfying after fighting gear at the Ironman I remember back when I used to fight my Remington 1100 wondering a few times how I would have done if it would only run! Have never yet had to wonder with the Stoeger. What did you win? Tom The port work turned out great. I just taped off my margins and filed until I got to the tape, then I beveled the inside edges, put the gun together, tried loading with dummy rounds, and took out a little more where I thought I needed it. I also took out the trigger housing and filed it down a bit to give the shells a smoother transition onto the lifter. It's not as pretty as the work on your guns, but it still looks pretty respectable and is better than a lot of garage jobs I've seen. Besides, this thing is meant to be shot fast and then thrown into a barrel on a full sprint, so how nice does it need to look? I also ended up welding the lifter. It was right on the line of needing it, but I have pretty small thumbs, so it seemed like a good idea and I'm happy I did it. I didn't add any length, just filled in the notch. I got an 18" pump gun off the prize table, which is good since my other shotgun is now nearly five-feet long and not all that practical for anything but 3-gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Schwab Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 (edited) I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express, but I did watch Jesse T's Stoeger vids. Other than final polishing, I only used hand files. I slowly worked on this for 40-60 minutes a day for three consecutive days. The gun is soooo much easier to load. Edited July 2, 2014 by Bill Schwab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobS761 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 There is a bit missing on the top/side corner opposite the shell catch and in the taint area. Where specifically is a shotgun's taint? Taint chamber and taint mag tube, therefore, "taint" either one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burkdog Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Wow. 52 pages. That's a lot to read, and I admit I haven't made it through them all. I just ordered an M3000 with a 24" barrel. Was that the right move? Would 26" have been better? Can someone give me a list of the parts I need to buy to get going? - Nordic ext. tube, or kit? and which one fits? - I just want to have a 9 shot capacity magazine, so do I need a +5? - Nordic low drag follower? Which one? - Special nut from MOA? I can probably wait on the os bolt release and the charging handle. Does Tom or anyone do the mods, and if so, how much? Thanks, Greg B. Dallas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_M Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Wow. 52 pages. That's a lot to read, and I admit I haven't made it through them all. I just ordered an M3000 with a 24" barrel. Was that the right move? Would 26" have been better? Can someone give me a list of the parts I need to buy to get going? - Nordic ext. tube, or kit? and which one fits? - I just want to have a 9 shot capacity magazine, so do I need a +5? - Nordic low drag follower? Which one? - Special nut from MOA? I can probably wait on the os bolt release and the charging handle. Does Tom or anyone do the mods, and if so, how much? Thanks, Greg B. Dallas Tom will give you "the works" for $325 or so. It's a steal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_M Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Is anyone else getting their thumb caught on the lifter? It might be a technique issue but the corner of my thumb where it meets my thumbnail is getting shredded by the fork on the lifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Is anyone else getting their thumb caught on the lifter? It might be a technique issue but the corner of my thumb where it meets my thumbnail is getting shredded by the fork on the lifter. C-Rums modified carrier fixes than problem. The Stoeger is not on his web page but he does them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) Is anyone else getting their thumb caught on the lifter? It might be a technique issue but the corner of my thumb where it meets my thumbnail is getting shredded by the fork on the lifter. C-Rums modified carrier fixes than problem. The Stoeger is not on his web page but he does them.He did mine. A welded lifter is not necessary for everyone but it can be tuned to make loading even smoother. Edited July 11, 2014 by Jesse Tischauser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will_M Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 He did mind. A welded lifter is not necessary for everyone but it can be tuned to make loading even smoother. What exactly does C-Rums do and how does it help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now