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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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Defacing the original serial number is the problem. You can stamp it fifty times all over the gun, no prob. But as soon as you cause the FACTORY APPLIED serial number to be unreadable, it is a felony per ATF. FWIW, with a decent radius going into the port INSIDE the receiver wall, the high side does not seem to be a limiting factor. Just SLIGHTLY increase the angle of the receiver relative to load hand and cut the opposite side as deep as you can. We go within .03 of the side flat, then blend.

Maybe some of the Stoeger sponsored shooters could suggest a change in serial number location to the nice folks that make it :)

They built us four guns with it moved. The request is definitely in. We were told it cost more to put it in the middle of the receiver simply because it takes more time. The receiver has to be blocked for reinforcement in the middle before it is stamped. It's probably not a lot of time but it ads up fast when your building 1000's of guns.

Like Tom said email email email. They will only know the demand is there if we tell them.

Suggest to them that they can move the serial number and do nothing else and call it the "competition model" and charge $50 more.

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I thought I'd share what I hope is a fluke hiccup on my M3000 from this weekend. I traveled to SC for the big Freedom Munitions championship. I flew so I had my guns all disassembled in my Patriot Case. I always unscrew the nut from my Nordic tube and screw it into the OEM tube to keep the handguard and guts together with the receiver and stock. When I went to unscrew the Nordic nut from my M3k it was on tight. So I screwed the entire Nordic tube in for more leverage. Only thing was when I started turning the nut the entire OEM tube came unscrewed. Since I cut into the OEM tube threads during my ten port opening jobs the threads I cut were really sharp so I could just screw it back together and keep checking it for tightness as I shot the match. I need to do done file work on the threads. I'm guessing my multiple heat applications during the load port opening weakened the loctite from the factory. Just thought everyone would like to know what is possible. If it can be broken I'm usually the guy to break it.

Sorry to hear that Jesse, man I was walking around looking for you on Sun and finally gave up as i did not have a cart and you know how big Clinton House is. Man that sucks, I told my brother something was up because i was checking out the scores and saw DNF.

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Finally shot my m3000 at a club match yesterday. It worked flawlessly. It was me who was fumbling and still learning the controls on a sa shotgun. Got some RO's confused on my MOA leftie safety (which btw is a Godsend) a few times but pointed out of the reverse direction. Yesterday was actually my first multigun match and I did enjoy it very much.

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Jesse, I'm really sorry to hear about that nut locking up on you. Thanks for sharing the incident. I suspect that with no barrel on the gun the nut screwed on further than normal and the outer and inner threads began binding due to the threads beginning to taper at the end of the threads. In the future, some anti-seize will likely help with this.

Balmo, Congrats on your first match with a great gun. I suspect that you are hooked.

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We remove the factory tube from the receiver for polishing (WAY easier done in the lathe!) and re-Loctite after the port work is complete to prevent it unscrewing later. We have seen some factory installs hand-tight with NO Loctite, and some with about a tablespoon of green death. It takes about 600 degrees to break down the green stuff, and Anodizing starts turning bronze color about 700. That is why we recommend to our customers not removing it yourself if you don't have an infra-red thermometer. Are you sure you got it that hot Jesse? If the Loctite fails from heat it turns to white powder on the threads. Perhaps a made-to-fit nut wouldn't lock up on the tube? :P ( good natured ribbing of course!)

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We remove the factory tube from the receiver for polishing (WAY easier done in the lathe!) and re-Loctite after the port work is complete to prevent it unscrewing later. We have seen some factory installs hand-tight with NO Loctite, and some with about a tablespoon of green death. It takes about 600 degrees to break down the green stuff, and Anodizing starts turning bronze color about 700. That is why we recommend to our customers not removing it yourself if you don't have an infra-red thermometer. Are you sure you got it that hot Jesse? If the Loctite fails from heat it turns to white powder on the threads. Perhaps a made-to-fit nut wouldn't lock up on the tube? :P ( good natured ribbing of course!)

There was a lot of loctite residue on the threads. I'm trying to blame the failure on myself rather than the factory but who knows maybe mine was done on a Friday before the holidays. The nut has nothing to do with it. I just hand tightened it and off came the tube rather than the nut.

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We remove the factory tube from the receiver for polishing (WAY easier done in the lathe!) and re-Loctite after the port work is complete to prevent it unscrewing later. We have seen some factory installs hand-tight with NO Loctite, and some with about a tablespoon of green death. It takes about 600 degrees to break down the green stuff, and Anodizing starts turning bronze color about 700. That is why we recommend to our customers not removing it yourself if you don't have an infra-red thermometer. Are you sure you got it that hot Jesse? If the Loctite fails from heat it turns to white powder on the threads. Perhaps a made-to-fit nut wouldn't lock up on the tube? :P ( good natured ribbing of course!)

There was a lot of loctite residue on the threads. I'm trying to blame the failure on myself rather than the factory but who knows maybe mine was done on a Friday before the holidays. The nut has nothing to do with it. I just hand tightened it and off came the tube rather than the nut.

So the factory mag tube came unscrewed from the receiver?

And was this a modified Benelli nut or the MOA nut?

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Yes the tube unscrewed. I don't think anyone has had to modify the nut have they? The nova nut fit fine I just trimmed the tip of the OEM tube to get it to seat fully. I could have opted to install the nut fully then install the tube so no trimming would have been necessary but it like to loctite my nut into my tube so the two parts don't unscrew from each other. I am still not sure why some of those early serial number guns needed a different nut together.

I did not get a definitive explanation from Stoeger aka Benelli here in the US if the threads were different or if possibly the tolerances aren't held as tight as a Nova.

Edited by Jesse Tischauser
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So I took my new MOA complete deluxe pimp daddy M3000 special (the new official name, I think he's still updating his website, kidding of course...) out to play this weekend at two different matches. It's the 26" model with both +8 and +10 tubes.

First off I received it on Thursday and had no time to shoot it. Good thing Tom pre-tested this for me. First stage I had 3 doubles, which after getting feedback from my fellow shooters, found out I had a weak grip. So the remaining stages I held it like a man's supposed to and had no issues. I had the +8 tube on it.

The next day I shot a different match and switched to the +10 to see how managable it would be with the extended length. Ended up being perfectly fine and I'm happy that it's not too long or cumbersome! Only issue I had that day was running low 1200 FPS S&B slugs, I'll switch up to the Federal Tru Ball Low Recoil 1300 FPS going forward.

Tom was amazing to work with every step of the way, updating me as he progressed. I've done a few full house customs and this was by far the best experience and fastest turnaround time!

I highly recommend an MOA M3000! Whoo hoo!

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Stupid question time. I detail stripped my gun over the weekend and was practicing port loading last night. With the bolt locked back I noticed a rattle coming from the bolt area. I hadn't noticed a sound like that before so I tore it down again. It's the inertia spring moving in the carrier when the bolt is forward. I do t believe I put it back together incorrectly but you never know.

Is the spring moving when the bolt is forward normal? Thanks.

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Where should I go from here? The blue tape is about half a millimeter below the serial number. Any suggestions to get the desired shape?

9t6FvmM.jpg

Smooth the edges and see how it loads before you go further.

I'm having some issues with shells getting by my shell catch which causes a death jam on one of my guns. I'm thinking I may have taken too much material out inside the gun and now the shell is moving side to side too much. So go slow.

Edited by Jesse Tischauser
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Where should I go from here? The blue tape is about half a millimeter below the serial number. Any suggestions to get the desired shape?

9t6FvmM.jpg

Very nice first cut, I see files in the background, is that how you did it? If so, how long did it take? I'm planning on doing this to my Stoeger this weekend, so any last minute words of advice? Also, a buddy of mine did his, and he scalloped the front portion of the plastic trigger guard which I think was a very nice mod.

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Very nice first cut, I see files in the background, is that how you did it? If so, how long did it take? I'm planning on doing this to my Stoeger this weekend, so any last minute words of advice? Also, a buddy of mine did his, and he scalloped the front portion of the plastic trigger guard which I think was a very nice mod.

I was determined to use files only and not butcher it with a dremel. Best advice is to put the shotgun in line with your file strokes. I braced the butt of the gun on my stomach and pushed the files straight out away from me. It made it much easier to keep the cuts level. It took me at least an hour or so of steady filing. The aluminum receiver is actually pretty easy to file. I was just being extra cautious.

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You can take significantly more off the side opposite the serial number without risking any mechanical problems. Almost all the way to where the bottom radius meets the vertical wall on the outside of the receiver. Radius all the edges you just made into the port, and give yourself a small curved ramp into the tube opening. Don't make the ramp too big, or too far into the tube mouth. About 1/8 inch of ramp MAX, and blend into the edges. Looks like a good job so far!

Tom

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You can take significantly more off the side opposite the serial number without risking any mechanical problems. Almost all the way to where the bottom radius meets the vertical wall on the outside of the receiver. Radius all the edges you just made into the port, and give yourself a small curved ramp into the tube opening. Don't make the ramp too big, or too far into the tube mouth. About 1/8 inch of ramp MAX, and blend into the edges. Looks like a good job so far!

Tom

Are you saying put a small chamfer on the magazine tube and blend it to the receiver? I'm trying to figure out where you're saying I should put the cut?

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I was determined to use files only and not butcher it with a dremel.

I will gladly put my die grinder and dremel work against your file work. You just need to know how to use them..... Your loading port did turn out nice by the way good job. I will post a pic of what Tom is talking about.... Notice in Pic 2 on the non serial # side how low i took the cut all the way to body line into the receiver. Then in pic4 I sanded the trigger assembly back then created a "chute" to assist when aligning the shells. When you do this you will need to break the files out again because it lengthens your port about a 1/4 of inch which is a good thing. One more note I also sanded the trigger guard back to give more clearance for the second set of shells. i will find a photo of how much more room you get when you sand the trigger guard back.

post-51323-0-19747300-1403908564_thumb.j

post-51323-0-19629500-1403908575_thumb.j

post-51323-0-79692500-1403908589_thumb.j

post-51323-0-24772700-1403908595_thumb.j

Edited by Oskino
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I was determined to use files only and not butcher it with a dremel.

I will gladly put my die grinder and dremel work against your file work. You just need to know how to use them..... Your loading port did turn out nice by the way good job. I will post a pic of what Tom is talking about.

I watched your video and was definitely impressed with the way yours turned out. Unfortunately I don't have the hand for this delicate of work using a power tool. Files were a way to slow me down. I wish I had your ability with a die grinder.

And I've continued bringing the left hand side down further. I'm going to drop the serial number down just a hair more and then polish it up and see how it loads.

How does it look so far besides the roughness from the files? I haven't brought the loading port forward at all. How far can I take it? Or should I bother moving it towards the mag tube at all?

M9iuj3D.jpg

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take a look at my modified post, You will def want to round off the inner edges then sand and polish to achieve the smooth finish.Overall you are doing great!!!

Edited by Oskino
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take a look at my modified post, You will def want to round off the inner edges then sand and polish to achieve the smooth finish.Overall you are doing great!!!

Thanks for the compliment. Is there any concern with functionality or reliability when taking the loading port forward? I see you took it basically to the first "E" in STOEGER. That's going to be my indicator.

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