kuduman Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) Perhaps I'm not being clear. Mine has four flat-top areas spaced out down the grooves on the top of the receiver. Are those some sort of plugs? If so, how does one safely remove them? Punch them out from inside the receiver? There are no visible holes. If it's "drilled and tapped", the holes are plugged. Though mined looks like it is NOT drilled and tapped. Which is why I'm asking. I don't have access to another one to compare against. Edited April 2, 2014 by kuduman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickO Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 They are rubber/plastic plugs protecting the receiver internals from grime when no optic are installed. I always used a little "hook" to dig em out (On other shotguns) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iowashooter Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I leave them in unless mounting an optic but to remove them I take thr trigger group out and push them out with a small punch. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lleets Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Anyone know the thread pattern of these mounting holes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 (edited) It is #8-40 IIRC Edit- Yep, just checked one on the work bench. #8-40 for sure. Edited April 2, 2014 by openclassterror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lleets Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuduman Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Thanks guys. That's what I needed to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockmeister35 Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 So i went back to the mill last night and played around a little more. Lowered the NON serial numbered side. Then i put a channel in the trigger guard. Not sure if anyone else was having the same problem but especially with quads, i noticed shell 2 was always hanging up on the rim of the shell 1. this allowed the pair to stay in line better and not kink when pressed against the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cajunfighter Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 So i went back to the mill last night and played around a little more. Lowered the NON serial numbered side. Then i put a channel in the trigger guard. Not sure if anyone else was having the same problem but especially with quads, i noticed shell 2 was always hanging up on the rim of the shell 1. this allowed the pair to stay in line better and not kink when pressed against the gun. Glockmeister, any way we can get some more pictures of you port job. Curious about how far forward you went. It looks like you went past the follower retainer ring inside the factory tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockmeister35 Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 i didnt take an EXACT measurement, but i went forward and left JUST enough for the follower to catch that "lip". All i gauged off or was Pat Kellys picture and i took the front edge to about the center of the E on STOEGER. It makes it very nice to not have to shove your finger up in the tube for the shell to catch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 So i went back to the mill last night and played around a little more. Lowered the NON serial numbered side. Then i put a channel in the trigger guard. Not sure if anyone else was having the same problem but especially with quads, i noticed shell 2 was always hanging up on the rim of the shell 1. this allowed the pair to stay in line better and not kink when pressed against the gun.Glockmeister, any way we can get some more pictures of you port job. Curious about how far forward you went. It looks like you went past the follower retainer ring inside the factory tube. I like it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockmeister35 Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Jesse, i need to pick your brain sometime about your quad loads. im getting that time down, but i cant break 8 sec for 12 shells. i feel like the shells either arnt staying in line or what. this little "chute" in the guard helped, but its still not JT 1 toothed beaver approved... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 The lip inside the receiver is 0.725 deep from the front face. Out of the last dozen or so we have machined this dimension has been consistent within .002" If you cut forward to EXACTLY 3/4" (0.750") from the port to the front of the receiver you will have enough remaining to put a slight radius on the edge. Glockmeister's is very close to how ours looks before the angle cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Jesse, i need to pick your brain sometime about your quad loads. im getting that time down, but i cant break 8 sec for 12 shells. i feel like the shells either arnt staying in line or what. this little "chute" in the guard helped, but its still not JT 1 toothed beaver approved... Shoot me a PM and Send me a video and I'll see whats up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinWolv Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Then i put a channel in the trigger guard. Good move, I like it. Probably would have cut down the entire width of the guard, but your call. In semi-similar fashion, I cut the front of my trigger guard down on my SLP as it allowed for more space in order to get a flatter angle for the shells to enter the mag tube (mainly the 2nd shell). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 So i went back to the mill last night and played around a little more. Lowered the NON serial numbered side. Then i put a channel in the trigger guard. Not sure if anyone else was having the same problem but especially with quads, i noticed shell 2 was always hanging up on the rim of the shell 1. this allowed the pair to stay in line better and not kink when pressed against the gun.Man that looks Great, nice job man and thanks now I have disassemble mine again.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockmeister35 Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 agreed. This was "phase 2" which consisted of lowering the non serial side. and then starting the "chute" idea. I'm going to widen the chute for sure, but I have ALREADY noticed a difference in how strait the 2 shells stay in line... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Then i put a channel in the trigger guard.Good move, I like it. Probably would have cut down the entire width of the guard, but your call. In semi-similar fashion, I cut the front of my trigger guard down on my SLP as it allowed for more space in order to get a flatter angle for the shells to enter the mag tube (mainly the 2nd shell). Oh, you mean like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockmeister35 Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 nice tom, NICE !!! apparently my idea wasnt original. In my defense, i hadnt seen that pic before cant wait for my MOA parts to come !!!! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 You guys are dangerous with a mill! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I did that AFTER you posted. I thought this was a bona fide pissing contest! I have an extra Stoeger here just for messing around with new ideas. I liked it, so I tried it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cajunfighter Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 So has anybody on here opened up past the folower lip inside the tube. It seems like there would be a sufficient amount of the lip left around the rest of the tube to still retain the follower. The reason I ask is because when looking as to why the second shell is catching, I think that the inside angle isnt drastic enough to facilitate the shell going in without have to slightly push the second shell down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I cant believe nobody has posted a mag fed M3k yet? Weak sauce! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Hold on a few minutes Jesse...................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinWolv Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Oh, you mean like this? Yes. But for a SLP, since I don't have a Stoeger. You guys are dangerous with a mill! Or a Dremel. Some of us are mill-less, right??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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